I hope you enjoy making this beautiful character as much as I did.

Technical Notes

• This is a low-sew pattern! The legs and arms are worked as separate pieces then crocheted onto the body as it is worked up.
• No last-minute attaching! It’s best to sew on pieces as you make them.
• Stuff the body and head firmly. Stuff the ears and tail lightly to keep them proportionate.
• While I am using makeup blush, feel free to play around with embroidering your own blush!
  • If you want to use powder blush, try testing it on a separate piece of the same yarn to see how it looks.

Materials

• Less than 1 skein white yarn Lion Brand (but you may use any other brand)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook
• 11 mm safety eyes (light blue)
• Light blue embroidery thread (try to match the color of the eyes!) 
• Fiberfill stuffing 
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle
• Sewing pins 
• Pink powder blush with a brush

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• dec: decrease
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• hdc: half double crochet
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

The Pattern

Head

• Round 1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (inc) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (inc, 2 sc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x5 (35 sts)
• Round 7: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x4, 3sc (40 sts)
• Round 8: (7 sc, inc) x5 (45 sts)

• Round 9: 4sc, inc, (8sc, inc) x 4, 4sc (50 sts)
• Round 10: (9 sc, inc) x5 (55 sts)
• Round 11: 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x4, 5 sc (60 sts)
• Round 12: (11 sc, inc) x5 (65 sts)

• Round 13: 65 sc around
• Round 14: 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x4, 6 sc (70 sts)
• Round 15: 70 sc around
• Round 16: 17 sc, inc, 34 sc, inc, 17 sc (72 sts)
• Round 17 – 21 (5 rnds): 72 sc around
• Insert the eyes between rounds 17 and 18, approximately 10 or 12 sts apart.

• Round 22: (7 sc, dec) x8 (64 sts)
• Round 23: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x7, 3 sc (56 sts)
• Round 24: (5 sc, inc) x8 (48 sts)
• Round 25: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x7, 2 sc (40 sts) 
• Round 26: (2 sc, dec) x10 (30 sts)
• Round 27: BLO: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 28: (dec, 2 sc) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff the head.

• Round 29: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 30: (dec) x6 (6 sts)
• Slip stitch in next st to close, then use the yarn needle to finish off.

Mouth

• Embroider the mouth slightly lower and centered between the eyes, using pins to help guide the placement.

Arms (make 2)

• Round 1: 5 sc into MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: (inc) x5 (10 sts)
• Round 3: 10 sc around
• Round 4: (3 sc, dec) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 5: 8 sc around
• Sl stitch in next st. Do not stuff. Fasten off with short tail.

Legs & Body

Starting with the first leg,

• Round 1: 5 sc into MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: (inc) x5 (10 sts)
• Round 3: 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (12 sts)
• Sl stitch to next stitch. Fasten off with short tail.

Beginning second leg,

• Round 1: 5 sc into MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: (inc) x5 (10 sts)
• Round 3: 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (12 sts)
• Round 4: Ch 5, join to the 1st leg, 12 sc around first leg, 5 sc over the ch, 12 sc around second leg, 5 sc over other side of chs (34 sts)
• Round 5: (inc, 3 sc) x3, 5 sc, (inc, 3 sc) x3, 5 sc (40 sts)
• Round 6: 15 sc, (hdc inc, hdc) x2, hdc inc, 11 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x3 (46 sts)
• Round 7: (inc, 2 sc) x2, 40 sc (48 sts)

• Round 8 – 9 (2 rnds): 48 sc around
• Round 10: (dec, 6 sc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 11 – 12 (2 rnds): 42 sc around
• Round 13: (3 sc, dec) x3, 6 sc, (3 sc, dec) x3, 6 sc (36 sts)
• Round 14 – 15 (2 rnds): 36 sc around
• Round 16: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x5, 2 sc (30 sts)
• Round 17: In this round, you will crochet the arms onto the body:
  • 5 sc on body
  • Take the first arm, pinch it in half, and crochet 4 sc across both arm and body.
  • 9 sc on body
  • Take the second arm, pinch it in half, and crochet 4 sc across both arm and body. (30 sts)
• Stuff the legs and body. Fasten off.

• Using the head’s BLO round as a guide, sew head onto body.

Ears (make 2)

• Round 1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (inc) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (5 sc, inc) x3 (21 sts)
• Round 5: 21 sc around
• Round 6: (6 sc, inc) x3 (24 sts)
• Round 7 – 9 (3 rnds): 24 sc around
• Round 10: (10 sc, dec) x2 (22 sts)
• Round 11 – 13 (3 rnds): 22 sc around

• Round 14: (9 sc, dec) x2 (20 sts)
• Round 15 – 17 (3 rnds): 20 sc around
• Round 18: (8 sc, dec) x2 (18 sts)
• Round 19 – 21 (3 rnds): 18 sc around
• Round 22: (4 sc, dec) x3 (15 sts)
• Round 23 – 25 (3 rnds): 15 sc around
• Round 26: (3 sc, dec) x3 (12 sts)
• Begin lightly stuffing the ear. Not too much! We want to keep it fairly flat.
• Round 27 – 30 (3 rnds): 12 sc around
• Round 31: (dec) x6 (6 stst)

• Sl st and fasten off, leaving long tail to sew ears to head.
• Sew ears on the 4th round of the head, making sure they are symmetrical when viewed from the front.

Tail

• Round 1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 3 – 30 (28 rnds): 9 sc around
• Sl st, fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.
• Roll the tail as if forming a cinnamon roll, then secure it with pins. Once you are satisfied with the shape, start securing it with tiny, invisible stitches.
• After the tail is firmly rolled, sew it to the body.

• Last but not least, we apply a bit of pink blush on the cheeks below the eyes.

Enjoy your own Cinnamoroll!

The post Amigurumi Cinnamoroll Doll – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

An adorable mini doll with luscious hair!

When setting out to design this pattern, I knew I wanted to make a mini doll from my mini doll base. I have quite a few dolls made from this base already, and I really love all the different variations that I’ve been able to come up with!

Dolls are some of my favorite projects to make (which is so funny, because I hated dolls growing up), and I love how my little portfolio is slowly growing!

The pièce de résistance for Angelica is her hair. Hair is often the most difficult part of making dolls, but Angelica manages to have a beautiful hairstyle that is surprisingly straightforward to make.

You’ll start with a small circle made from a magic ring, and then work a series of chains and single crochets (as if you were working in turned rows). This creates the individual strands of hair.

The best part is that as you work the hair, it will naturally curl into the beautifully textured hair you can see on the doll below.

After working all the hair strands, I have detailed instructions on how to arrange her hair exactly like the hairstyle you see below. It makes the whole process a lot less stressful and more achievable!

As always, I recommend pinning her hairstyle in place first to decide how you like it, and then I usually break out a glue gun to secure everything down. You can always sew the strands down individually as well, but that tends to more significantly more time consuming and might not result in as polished of a finish.

A new technique for making this doll: the FSC!

This doll uses several techniques that might be new to you, or at least the first time you’re using them in amigurumi.

One of the big ones is the Foundation Single Crochet. This is an amazing technique to have in your toolbox and one that I use frequently in my amigurumi projects.

In essence, the FSC is exactly the same structurally as working a chain and then working single crochet stitches back on top of it. However, an FSC creates both the bottom row of chains and the second row of single crochets at the same time. It’s kind of magic, and isn’t really much more difficult.

The main reason why I and many others choose to use this technique is because this results in a piece that is significantly stretchier. Working a chain means that there is very little elasticity, and often this can result in work that doesn’t stretch much at all in either direction.

Because the FSC creates a much stretchier end result, I much prefer it over using starting chains, especially when creating a (doll) garment. However, this concept extends to real life garments too! Hats that are started with a chain will always feel restrictive to put on, since it does not widen to accommodate your head and then shrink back down once you’ve put it on.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

Technical Notes

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

Angelica the Mini Doll is a petite sized Black doll with an elegant dress who fits in the palm of your hand. She is an intermediate amigurumi because of the patience and technique required with shaping her hair, along with creating the ruffle of her dress.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Almond (light brown)
  • (<1 skein) Sienna (dark brown)
  • (<1 skein) Lady Slipper (pinkish purple)
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Blush (pink)

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• (optional) hot glue gun

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
5. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: see this tutorial
• FSC (Foundation Single Crochet): click here for tutorial

Final Size

4.5″ x 2″

The Pattern

LEGS (in light brown)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: sc around (5 sts)
• Round 3: sc, inc, 3 sc (6 sts)
• Round 4: sc around (6 sts)
• Round 5: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc (7 sts)
• Round 6: sc around (7 sts)

Stuff firmly, using the back of a crochet hook or chopstick to push the stuffing down. Finish off (this is leg 1) and then create a second leg identically, but do not finish off the second leg (this is leg 2).

Connect the legs (tutorial here): Chain 2 off the side of the leg, attach yarn to the remaining leg and sc 7 around the leg you just attached the yarn to. Sc 2 in the connecting chains, sc 7 around the first leg, sc 2 in the connecting chains. (18 sts)

BODY (in light brown)

• Round 1: inc x2, 7 sc, inc x2, 7 sc (22 sts)
• Round 2: inc, sc 10, inc, sc 10 (24 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (24 sts)
• Round 4: (dec, 2 sc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 5-8 (4 rnds): sc around (18 sts)
• Stuff. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

HEAD (in light brown)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-15 (7 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
• Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart. Embroider a nose using MC directly between the eyes, 2 stitches wide.
• Round 16: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 22: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head to the body. See fig. 1 below.

ARMS (in light brown)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (6 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (6 sts)
• Round 4: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (5 sts)
• Round 5-6 (2 rnds): sc around (5 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the body and the head. See fig. 1 for finished doll base.

DRESS (Worked in turned rows until row 4, then in joined rounds. Begin in white. See Special Stitches for FSC.)

• Row 1: 20 FSC, chain and turn (20 sts)
• Switch to dark pink, leaving a long tail of dark pink at the top of the dress to use for seaming later. Do not cut the white yarn.
• Row 2: BLO, sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, 6 sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc, chain and turn (20 sts)
• Row 3: inc, dc inc, 4 sk, dc inc, inc, 4 sc, inc, dc inc, 4 sk, dc inc, inc, chain and turn (20 sts)
• Row 4: sc across, chain and turn (20 sts)
• Slip stitch to join and begin working in joined rounds.
• Round 5: chain, hdc inc x20, slst (40 sts)
• Round 6: chain, hdc inc, x40 slst (80 sts)
• Round 7-9 (3 rnds): chain, hdc around, slst (80 sts)
• Working in the front loops from row 2, continue working with White from Row 1. Work across on all the front loops. Slip stitch 7 times, then sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc, and slip stitch 7 times. (20 stitches total).
• Invisible finish off and weave in end. Put the dress on the doll (the back will be open). Using the Dark Pink tail from Row 2, sew the back of the dress closed. At this point the dress will not be removable.

HAIR (in dark brown)

• The hair is created by first crocheting a small circle, and then crocheting many hair strands stemming from the circle.
• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• We will now create 20 strands (S) of hair.
• S1-2 (2 strands): chain 35 and sc 34 back. Slip stitch into the back loop of the next stitch twice. Check to make sure that the hair is curling naturally. If these two strands did not curl, then redo and crochet all the hair strands with single crochet increases every 3 stitches or so. For tighter curls, work increases more frequently.
• S3-5 (3 strands): chain 35 and sc 34 back. Slip stitch into the next stitch twice (one slst in each stitch).
• S6-18 (13 strands): chain 25, sc 24 back, and slst into the next stitch twice (one slst in each stitch).
• S19-20 (2 strands): chain 35, sc 34 back, and slst into the front loop of the next stitch twice. These will overlap with strands 1 and 2.
• Finish off and weave in end. Glue the hair circle (not the hair strands) to the head with the right side downwards and continue following directions to pin down all the hair strands until you are satisfied with the hair style.
• Arrange the hair strands so that strands 1-5 oriented at the forehead. Pin down strands 6 to 18 around the back; these will form the main hair layer. Each hair strand is naturally curly after crocheting it, so uncurl the top of the strand so that it lies flat on the head, leaving the bottom curls (Fig. 4).
• Pull back strands 1-5 over the top of the head. Straighten out the upper portion of these strands and then tie them together with a scrap piece of dark brown yarn in a ponytail (Fig. 5, 6, and 7).

Strands 19 and 20 are secured to the right side of the face, left curly, acting as side bangs (Fig. 8 and 9). Glue down all hair strands using the hot glue gun, carefully removing each pin one by one. Begin with the base layer of hair strands (6-18), then secure the side bangs (19 and 20). Strands 1-5 are tied together in a ponytail.

BLUSH (in pink)

Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
Invisible finish off and weave in end, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the face directly beneath and to the right and left of the eyes (Fig. 10).

Using brown embroidery thread, embroider eyebrows above the eyes at an angle (Fig. 10)

Angelica the Mini Doll is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Angelica the Mini Doll – Amigurumi Black Girl Doll – African American Girl Doll appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A deceptively easy project for doll beginners!

I’ve been dreaming about creating this design for a long time. Ever since I started designing, every time Lunar New Year rolled around I would think about creating a doll wearing a traditional qipao dress.

Over the years, I’ve considered a couple of different methods for the dress, including a top down construction, bottom up construction, and even a method that is both bottom up and top down. The reasons for all these crazy ideas is because a qipao has a few distinctive features that define it.

First, the collar is a high neck and tends to split apart at the bottom of the neck, which flows down into a layer that wraps over, creating a seam. Usually, there are a couple of decorative Chinese knots here.

From there, the dress goes straight down with cap sleeves.

However, my struggles always came with creating the collar. I had great ideas of adding the collar onto the end with a FLO round, something I’ve done with my Red Panda pattern, but then it would be very difficult to create the seam down the front unless I did a lot of freehand embroidery.

I try to avoid too many techniques in my pattern that rely heavily on freehand techniques, because at that point it becomes difficult to give accurate directions. So I shelved that idea.

Fast forward to a month ago, when I decided to try again, but this time creating the dress as a robe.

I had originally rejected this idea because creating a robe would solve the problem of the seam, but would not create that perfectly defined collar that I imagined. However, on my second attempt, I realized that I could make the robe slightly oversized, which would result in the high neck collar that I wanted.

Slightly oversizing the robe also meant that the front edges would cross over naturally, perfectly replicating the seam present on qipaos!

The other great part about this construction is that it’s so easy!! One of the reasons why I hesitated in my previous iterations is because inevitably the construction would get so complicated that I didn’t want to move forward. I try to keep my patterns as simple as possible, and my favorite ones are the projects that are deceptively easy but achieve a polished look.

This project is AMAZING because the dress is made almost entirely in one piece, with the gold edging worked on as a seamless border. The collar is part of the robe, so no need to use any FLO techniques. It’s easy to adjust along the way if you’re struggling with fit, and easy to customize to your favorite qipao colors.

Honestly, I feel like I knocked it out of the park with this one and I hope you think so too!

I kept the hair simple and easy for beginners — no crocheting hair strands, no blocking. It’s one of my simplest doll patterns, while also being highly effective!

I also threw in a mini lantern as part of it which is a miniature version of my full size Lunar New Year lantern.

Tips for making your first doll!

If you’re making your first doll, you might be a little apprehensive. However, this is a great first doll project because I’ve kept things as simple as possible.

Structurally, a doll is just like any other amigurumi, except that it takes a little longer since you’ll have to create extra pieces for the hair and clothing.

Sometimes, hair can get really complicated (see my Jackie the Cellist pattern), but for this beginner doll, the hair is just two simple pieces that don’t use any special techniques. I love this hairstyle because the bun is simple and classy and doesn’t look like you cut any corners, but is secretly really easy.

As I mentioned above, the clothing on this project is very simple as well. Most of my dresses tend to be slightly more complex than this, but if you can crochet a square, you can make this dress.

The doll base is pretty straightforward, but if you’ve never made legs that connect into a body, this could be a bit tricky. I have a full video tutorial just for this, but it’s also included in my doll base video tutorial below.

This is a great video to watch if this is your first doll project!

More free crochet doll patterns:

• Carmen the Mini Doll (a flamboyant dancer!)
• Kitsune the Fox Doll
• Jacqueline the Cellist Mini Doll
• The Little Prince
• The Sugar Plum Fairy (one of my favorites!)
• Juliet the Mini Doll

Technical Notes

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

新年快樂! Celebrate Lunar New Year with this simple doll pattern wearing a traditional Chinese qipao (旗袍) or cheongsam. This is a great project for first time doll makers with a simple hairstyle and robe that is worked almost entirely in one piece. The elegant collar and beautiful border are incredibly easy to make and designed with beginners in mind. Looks much more difficult than it is!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Hobbii Amigo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Cream (or any skin color)
  • (<1 skein) Black
  • (<1 skein) Christmas Red (red)
  • (<1 skein) Yellow (optionally, you can swap in a shiny gold yarn; I used Nurturing Fibers Eco-Bamboo in Sunglow)
  • (scrap) Pink

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• toothpick
• (optional) hot glue gun for hair

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
5. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Special Stitches

• How to crochet doll base: tutorial here
• How to embroidery a French knot: tutorial here
• How to work a single crochet border: tutorial here

Final Size

6″ x 2″

The Pattern

LEGS (in Cream. Click here for a full tutorial of this doll base)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3-11 (9 rnds): sc all around (8 sts)
• Stuff firmly, using the back of a crochet hook or chopstick to push the stuffing down. Finish off (this is leg 1) and then create a second leg identically, but do not finish off the second leg (this is leg 2).

Connect the legs (full tutorial): With your hook still connected to leg 2, pick up and work a stitch anywhere on leg 1, then work the remaining 7 single crochets all around leg 1. Then, pick up and work a stitch on leg 2 right next to the last stitch from round 11, and then work the remaining 7 stitches around leg 2. The two legs should now be connected with a total of 16 stitches around.

BODY (Continue in Cream)

• Round 12: sc all around both legs (16 sts)
• Round 13-20 (8 rnds): sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 21: (6 sc, dec) x2 (14 sts)
• Round 22: sc all around (14 sts)
• Round 23: (5 sc, dec) x2 (12 sts)
• Stuff firmly. Finish off, leaving a long (~12 inches) tail for sewing. See fig. 1.

HEAD (in Cream)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-16 (9 rnds): sc all around (42 sts)
• Place 6.0 mm safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, 8 stitches apart.

• Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 22: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head and body together.

Nose (tutorial here): Using Cream, embroider three horizontal stitches directly between the eyes to form the nose (2 sts long).

ARMS (in Cream)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3: sc all around (8 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 5-9 (5 rnds): sc all around (6 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a short tail. Fold flat and then sew to the left and right sides along the seam between the head and body.

HAIR (in Black)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR, slst (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-12 (5 rnds): sc all around (42 sts)
• Round 13: 19 dc, hdc, slst, hdc, 20 dc (42 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing (fig. 2). Position the hair piece on the head off center so that the back of the hair falls three rounds away from the neck, and orient the part slightly to the left. Sew or hot glue hair piece to the head.

BUN (in Black)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5-8 (4 rnds): sc all around (24 sts)
• Round 9: (4 sc, dec) x4 (20 sts)
• Stuff firmly. Finish off, leaving a tail (fig. 3). Sew to the back of the hair.

ROBE (in Red. Worked in turned rows.)

• Begin: Chain 15 (15 sts)
• Row 1: beginning from the second chain from the hook, (2 sc, 3 sc in one stitch) x2, 2 sc, (3 sc in one stitch, 2 sc) x2, ch and turn (22 sts)
• Row 2: 3 sc, ch 4, sk 4, 8 sc, ch 4, sk 4, 3 sc, ch and turn (22 sts)
• Row 3: 3 sc, 4 sc in chain-space, 8 sc, 4 sc in chain-sp, 3 sc, ch and turn (22 sts)
• Row 4-7 (4 rows): sc across, ch and turn (22 sts)
• Row 8: 4 sc, inc, 12 sts, inc, 4 sc, ch and turn (24 sts)
• Row 9: 5 sc, inc, 12 sts, inc, 5 sc, ch and turn (26 st)
• Row 10: 6 sc, inc, 12 sts, inc, 6 sc, ch and turn (28 sts)
• Row 11: sc across, ch and turn (28 sts)
• Row 12: 7 sc, inc, 12 sts, inc, 7 sc, ch and turn (30 sts)
• Row 13: sc across, ch and turn (30 sts)
• Row 14: 8 sc, inc, 12 sts, inc, 8 sc, ch and turn (32 sts)
• Row 15-16 (2 rows): sc across, ch and turn (32 sts)
• On the last row, do not turn the work. The work should look like figure 4. We will start from the black dot and then work an sc border counterclockwise, following the black arrows.
• Continue in Red yarn and work a single crochet border all around the outside of the robe (tutorial here). Switch to Yellow and work another single crochet border all around. Sl st to the first st and finish off, weaving in the ends.

SLEEVES (in Red)

• Round 1: Attach yarn (tutorial here) and pick up 10 stitches at the armhole of the robe. Pick up your first stitch at the bottom of the arm hole, inserting the hook from the outside of the robe. (see fig. 5). (10 sts)
• Round 2: (4 sc, inc) x2 (12 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (12 sts)
• Switch to Yellow. Work a single crochet border all around the outside of the sleeve. Sl st to the first st and finish off, weaving in the end. Repeat with the other sleeve. See fig. 6 for finished robe. Place the robe on the body, pulling it tight so that the front edges overlap, and then sew or glue it in place.
• Using Yellow, embroider four French knots at rows 6 and 7 on either side of the border (see fig. 6 for positioning).

LANTERN (in Red)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4-6 (3 rnds): sc around (18 sts)
• Round 7: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 8: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the tail through to the top and then back down to create a loop (fig. 7)

CAPS (in Yellow, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6, sl st to first stitch (12 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew one cap to the top of the lantern. Thread the tail of the Red yarn weave it through the cap on top and then back down to form a loop (fig. 7). Make another cap, and sew it onto the bottom.

Trim a toothpick until it is 1.5″ long. Lightly glue the tip of the toothpick, then place the lantern’s loop on top of the end of the toothpick so that it is glued in place.

Place the completed lantern in the doll’s hand either by inserting it into the bottom of the hand or by gluing in place.

ROSE (in Red, in turned rows. Refer to Abbreviations for meaning
of *…*. For assistance with the rose, watch the video tutorial here.)

• Row 1: chain 21 (21 sts)
• Row 2: working from the second chain from the hook, (sc, 2 ch, sk) x8, sc, 2 ch, slst into last stitch. Chain 2 and turn (10 sts, 9 chain spaces)
• Row 3: working into the chain space, (3 dc, ch, slst, slst to next chain space) x3, (3 hdc, ch, slst, slst to next chain space) x3, (*3 sc, ch, slst*, slst to the next chain space) x2, *3 sc, ch, slst*. (9 petals)
• Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. See fig. 8.
• With the single crochet petals in the center, wrap the other end of the work around the single crochet end, until the rose is as flat or conical as you wish. Using the tail end, sew across the bottom of the rose to secure in place (see fig. 9), then sew to the seam between the bun and the hair (see fig. 10).

BLUSH (in Pink)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to first st (6 sts)

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew the blush directly under and to the side of both eyes. See fig. 10 for positioning.

Lingling the Lunar New Year Doll is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Lingling the Lunar New Year Girl Doll – Traditional Qipao/Cheongsam Crochet Doll appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

An adorable girl doll with a teddy bear outfit!

Dolls are one of my favorite types of projects to make, and this project was no exception! My previous project, Kitsune the Fox Doll, is one of my most popular patterns. I love her cute chibi proportions and the super sweet suspender skirt.

Julie the Bear Girl (also pictured below) is very similar to Kitsune the Fox Girl, but she’s slightly taller, using my 6″ doll base. I gave her slightly longer hair, and her hat is new and improved with FPDC/BPDC ribbing!

I really enjoyed adding a new installment to my “series” of adorable mini dolls wearing animal outfits, and I’m hoping that I’ll be able to make more soon!

It’s been about three years since I published Kitsune, and it’s so interesting to see how my style has changed (and yet remained so similar!) over that time.

Tips for making your first doll!

If you’ve never made a doll before, it can feel a little intimidating! Often, making humans can be tougher because we have an instinctive eye for what a person is supposed to look like, so it can be easier to accidentally make your project look a little off.

One of the tricky parts can be connecting the legs. The reason this is a stumbling block for beginners is because most dolls use this exact technique to connect two legs together, but it’s not usually technique that you come across unless you’ve tried making a doll with this construction before.

If you’re working on the pattern below and feel like the connecting legs portion is tripping you up, check out my blog post below which has a full photo and video tutorial to help you out. Just click below! If this is your first time, it’s a good idea to review this technique first so you know what you’re getting yourself into.

If you want some more help with the doll base, I have an entire video tutorial that goes through the exact doll base I use in this pattern.

The only differences are that in Julie the Bear Girl, I switch to white at round 12 to create the white shirt effect and work round 16 in the BLO to make it easy to attach the skirt later. Apart from that, the doll base I use in this pattern is exactly the same as in the video below.

If you’re feeling unconfident about creating the doll base, just follow along with the video tutorial below and keep an eye on the written pattern at the same time so you can get some visual help with how the doll base is supposed to fit together.

I hope these resources help!

Technical Notes

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

Julie the Bear Girl is a charming amigurumi doll with a simple outfit. The skirt is worked directly onto the body and the shirt is made with a color change — no need to crochet any extra pieces! Learn a simple way to crochet realistic hair and finish it off with a super adorable teddy bear hat.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Dark Beige (light brown)
  • (<1 skein) Cream (fair skin color or any color skin color yarn. Check out this post for the best skin tone yarns!)
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Chocolate (dark brown)

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• pink embroidery thread
• blocking materials (for straight hair)
• (optional) hot glue gun
• two 7/8″ brown buttons
• brown embroidery thread for sewing buttons

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
5. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them. For extra sewing tips, see my post here!

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: tutorial here
• FPDC BPDC Border (tutorial here)
  • Work a double crochet stitch by inserting the hook around the post of the previous row either from the front (FPDC) or back (bpdc)
• Foundation Single Crochet (FSC): tutorial here

Final Size

6″ x 2″

The Pattern

LEGS (in Cream. This pattern is almost identical to my doll base tutorial except for the color change in rnd 12 of the body.)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3-11 (9 rnds): sc all around (8 sts)
• Stuff firmly, using the back of a crochet hook or chopstick to push the stuffing down. Finish off (this is leg 1) and then create a second leg identically, but do not finish off the second leg (this is leg 2).

Connect the legs (full tutorial): With your hook still connected to leg 2, pick up and work a stitch anywhere on leg 1, then work the remaining 8 single crochets all around leg 1. Then, pick up and work a stitch on leg 2 right next to the last stitch from round 11, and then work the remaining 7 stitches around leg 2. The two legs should now be connected with a total of 16 stitches around.

BODY (switch to White)

• Round 12-15 (8 rnds): sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 16: in the BLO, sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 17-20 (4 rnds): sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 20: (6 sc, dec) x2 (14 sts)
• Round 21: sc all around (14 sts)
• Round 22: (5 sc, dec) x2 (12 sts)
• Stuff firmly. Finish off, leaving a long (~12 inches) tail for sewing (see fig. 1 below).

HEAD (in Cream)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-16 (9 rnds): sc all around (42 sts)
• Place 6.0 mm safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, 8 stitches apart.
• Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 22: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head and body together.
• Nose (tutorial here): Using Cream, embroider three horizontal stitches directly between the eyes to form the nose (2 sts long).

ARMS (in Cream)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3: sc all around (8 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 5-9 (5 rnds): sc all around (6 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a short tail. Fold flat and then sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the head and body.

HAIR (in Dark Brown)

• Begin: With Dark Brown, make a magic ring.
• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• We have now created a circle which will form the center of the hair piece. We will now create 20 hair strands (S) branching off from rnd 4 of the center, leaving the last 4 sts in rnd 4 unworked.

• S1: Ch 21 off the side of rnd 4. Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and sc across. Sl st into the next st in rnd 4. (20 sts)
• S2-20: Repeat S1, creating hair strands all around rnd 4, until there are 4 sts left which will remain unworked.
• FO, leaving a tail for sewing. Lay the hair piece flat and steam block so that each hair strand is straight and does not curl (see fig. 2).
• Place the blocked hair piece on the head with the WS up and with the unworked sts from rnd 4 facing the front of the head. Pin down the hair to your liking and secure by sewing or with hot glue (see fig. 3). Weave in ends.

SKIRT (in Light Brown)

• Hold the doll base with the head pointing towards you, face down (fig. 4).
• Round 1: Insert the hook into the unworked front loops from rnd 16 of the body with hook pointed towards legs and attach yarn. Chain 1 to secure. Then, pick up hdcs all around the body. (16 sts)
• Round 2: hdc inc x16 (32 sts)
• Round 3: (hdc, hdc inc) x16 (48 sts)
• Round 4-5: hdc around (48 sts)
• Invisible finish off, weave in end (fig. 5).

SUSPENDER STRAPS (in Light Brown)

Pick two points on rnd 16 on the left and right sides of the front of the doll. Insert hook into rnd 16 of the body, where the skirt is attached to the body (see fig. 6). Chain 1 to secure.

Work 8 FSC (see Special Stitches) to form the suspender, then sew to the back of the doll on rnd 16 where the skirt meets the body (fig. 7).

Repeat with the second suspender strap, then sew on two dark brown buttons to the front of the dress. See fig. 8.

HAT (in Light Brown. See Special Stitches for FPDC and BPDC.)

• Round 1: 6 hdc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: hdc inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (hdc, hdc inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 hdc, hdc inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 hdc, hdc inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 hdc, hdc inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7-8 (2 rnds): hdc around (36 sts)
• Round 9 (see photo tutorial below): (FPDC, BPDC) x18 (36 sts)
• Round 10: (FPDC, BPDC) x18 (36 sts)
• Invisible finish off (see Special Stitches) and weave in end (fig. 9).

FPDC, BPDC Tutorial:

Julie the Bear Girl is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Julie the Bear Girl Free Crochet Doll Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A super cute beard and hair for doll-beginners!

If you’re a beginner to doll making and intimidated by all the different ways of creating doll hair, this is a great place to start! Liam the Leprechaun has a simple and clever hairstyle that you can make easily as a first time dollmaker. His beard is composed entirely of bobble stitches, so it’s a great way to try them out without committing to a larger project.

Liam the Leprechaun has a super cute and on-theme outfit, but the best news is that this outfit is mostly worked with color changes, meaning that this doll is a breeze to make and you won’t have to waste any time creating extra pieces for the clothing.

My favorite part of this doll is the tiny top hat. In my opinion, small details make a huge difference in amigurumi and this little top hat adds the perfect touch even though it’s such a small piece.

Make your first pom-pom!

Liam the Leprechaun also comes with a giant and fluffy (!!) four leaf clover made up of four pompoms.

If you’ve never handmade a pompom before, watch the video below for how to make a pompom using the handy Clover Pompom maker.

Clover’s pompom makers are my favorite because they come in three different sizes and it’s easy to effortlessly create the exact size of pompom that you want. If you don’t have a pompom maker, you can DIY an alternative using cardboard, but honestly I get better results with the pompom maker so I would really recommend going that route if you think you’ll make more than one.

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

Liam the Leprechaun is a mini doll with a flair for mischief. He is accompanied by a fluffy four-leaf clover, made up of four pompoms. This tiny leprechaun doll is sure to please with his tiny hat and cute details.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Hobbii Amigo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) beige
    • light beige, can be substituted for any skin color
  • (<1 skein) coral
  • (<1 skein) green
  • (<1 skein) light green
  • (<1 skein) black
  • (<1 skein) brown
  • (<1 skein) yellow

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

2. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is green, CC1 is beige, CC2 is coral, CC3 is black, CC4 is brown, CC5 is light green, and CC6 is yellow.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial
• Bobble stitch (video tutorial here):
  • 1.Yarn over, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two. (This is essentially completing the first half of one double crochet stitch.)
  • 2. Repeat number one in the same stitch/space until you have a total of 6 loops on your hook.
  • 3. Yarn over, pull through all 6 loops at once.

Final Size

Doll: 4.5″ x 2″ Clover: 1.5″ x 1.5″

PATTERN

LEG (begin in CC4)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
  
• Round 2: sc around (5 sts)
  
• Round 3: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (6 sts)
  
• Cut CC4 and switch to MC.
  
• Round 4: sc around (6 sts)
  
• Round 5: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc (7 sts)
  
• Round 6: sc around (7 sts)
  
• Stuff very lightly. Finish off and weave in the end. Make another identically but do not finish off.
• Chain 2 off the side of the leg you’re working on, attach yarn to the first leg and sc 7 around the leg. Sc 2 in the connecting chains, sc 7 around the second leg. (18 sts total, counting the 2 connecting chains)

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: inc x2, 7 sc, inc x2, 7 sc (22 sts)
• Round 2: inc, sc 10, inc, sc 10 (24 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (24 sts)
• Round 4: (dec, 2 sc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 5-8 (4 rnds): sc around (18 sts)
• Stuff. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

HEAD (in CC1)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-15 (7 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
• Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart. Embroider a nose using CC1 directly between the eyes, 2 stitches wide.
• Round 16: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts) Stuff.
• Round 21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 22: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head to the body.

ARMS (in CC1, then MC)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (6 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (6 sts)
• Cut CC1 and switch to MC.
• Round 4: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (5 sts)
• Round 5-6 (2 rnds): sc around (5 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the body and the head.

HAIR (in CC2)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-11 (3 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
• Round 12: chain 2, 20 dc, hdc, slst, hdc, 25 dc, slst to top of first stitch (48 sts)
• Finish off. Either leave a long tail and sew the hair cap to the head with the part slightly off center, or use a hot glue gun to secure the hairpiece.

BEARD (in CC2. See Special Stitches for Bobble Stitch.)

• Begin: Chain 18
• Row 1: Beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc across, turn (17 sts)
• Row 2: ch 2, (hdc, bobble stitch) x8, hdc, turn (17 sts, 8 bobbles)
• Row 3: ch 2, hdc, (bobble, hdc dec) x5, hdc (12 sts, 5 bobbles)
• For row 3, the bobbles will be facing the opposite direction as row 2. Using the back of your crochet hook or other blunt object, pop the bobbles on row 3 inside out so that all of the bobbles are facing the same direction.
• Finish off. Either leave a long tail and sew the beard to the bottom of the head, or use a hot glue gun to secure. Row 3, with fewer bobbles, should be on top.

BELT (in CC3. See Abbreviations for FSC.)

• Row 1: FSC 16
  Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew to the 3rd round of the body. Using CC6, embroider a square centered at the front of the belt.

BOWTIE (in CC5, worked in turned rows. Video tutorial here.)

• Row 1: FSC 4, chain and turn (4 sts)
• Row 2-3 (2 rows): 4 sc, chain and turn (4 sts)
• Cut a long tail, thread needle from the end of the rectangle to the middle. Wrap yarn around the middle of the rectangle several times, and then secure the end by passing the needle through the rectangle several times. Make sure to leave a tail for sewing to the body.

HAT BRIM (in MC. Video tutorial for crab stitch here and invisible finish off here.)

• Round 1: 8 sc in MR (8 sts)
• Round 2: inc x8 (16 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x8 (24 sts)
• Round 4: crab stitch all around. Invisible finish off. Weave in end.

HAT TOP (in MC, then switch to CC3)

• Round 1: 8 sc in MR (8 sts)
• Round 2: inc x8 (16 sts)
• Round 3-6 (4 rnds): sc all around (16 sts)
• Cut MC, switch to CC3.
• Round 7-8 (2 rnds): sc around (16 sts)
• Stuff. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the top of the hat to the brim using CC3. Using CC6, embroider a rectangle on the black band of the hat. Sew the hat to the top of the head using MC.

FOUR-LEAF CLOVER (in MC)

Make four pompoms. If you have a Clover Extra Small Pompom maker, view this tutorial here. If you’re
DIYing it, check out this tutorial for making pompoms from scratch.

CLOVER STEM (in MC)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x2, sc (7 sts)
• Round 3-6 (4 rnds): sc around (7 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing and thread a tapestry needle. Next, string all four pompoms onto your tapestry needle one after another by inserting your needle through the middle of each pompom. Once you have all four pompoms in a line on your needle, insert your needle back through the open end of the stem, forming a circle. Pull tight, and the four pompoms should all squish together into a square shape. Insert your needle through all four pompoms again to secure, then tie a knot and weave in the end. Trim the pompoms of any stray yarn strands.

Liam the Leprechaun is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Crochet Leprechaun – Amigurumi Leprechaun Free Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern.

A simple and versatile doll pattern!

This is my favorite doll base to use since it’s the perfect size to hold in your hand — about 6 inches tall and 2 inches wide!

In my experience, this is a great size for a miniature doll that doesn’t take too much effort to create, but still allows for enough detail with any dress up crochet clothing items you choose to put on it.

This is the doll base I used for my Sugar Plum Fairy pattern which is one of my absolute favorite doll patterns.

I have some more dolls in the works, so I hope to have more options for cute hairstyles and dress up clothing in the future! For now, feel free to pick and choose from all my other doll patterns

More free crochet doll patterns:

• Carmen the Mini Doll (a flamboyant dancer!)
• Kitsune the Fox Doll
• Jacqueline the Cellist Mini Doll
• The Little Prince
• The Sugar Plum Fairy (one of my favorites!)
• Juliet the Mini Doll

Tips for making this pattern for beginners!

I have a great video tutorial for this pattern which walks through all the steps! Watch it below for some extra guidance

A few concrete tips I have for beginners are familiarizing yourself with how to sew amigurumi parts together. I have a great tutorial where I teach you a method so that you’ll be able to sew any type of amigurumi part!

If you encounter problems with floppy heads, I would recommend you read my article here about how to stuff amigurumi the right way. I teach you all my tips and tricks to make sure that your amigurumi look nice and firm without being overstuffed or too squishy!

If you need more help on individual sections, please watch my video tutorial below — I worked really hard on it and I hope it’ll help you out!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

Description

This adorable amigurumi doll base is the perfect size for playing dress up. It fits in the palm of your hand and can be adapted for all gender dolls.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • Color: Cream (<1 skein)
    • Fair skin color; you can use any skin color

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
5. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is any skin color yarn.

Special Stitches

Final Size

6″ x 2″

LEGS (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3-11 (9 rnds): sc all around (8 sts)
• Stuff lightly, using the back of a crochet hook or chopstick to push the stuffing down. Finish off the first leg and then create a second leg identically, but do not finish off the second leg. Continue to body.

BODY (in MC)

• Round 12: sc all around both legs (16 sts)
  • See my video tutorial here for help on this step!
• Round 13-20 (8 rnds): sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 21 (6 sc, dec) x2 (14 sts)
• Round 22: sc all around (14 sts)
• Round 23: (5 sc, dec) x2 (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-16 (9 rnds): sc all around (42 sts)
• Place 6.0 mm safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, 8 stitches apart.
• Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts) Stuff.
• Round 21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 22: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head and body together.

ARMS (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3: sc all around (8 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 5-9 (5 rnds): sc all around (6 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a short tail. Sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the head and body.

Your amigurumi doll base is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post How to Crochet the Easiest Small and Cute Doll Base (free!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cellist behind the doll

This doll was inspired by my favorite cellist, Jacqueline du Pré, who was a brilliant and virtuosic cellist during a time when women were not as welcome in the classical music scene.

I’ve based her dark red dress off of her recording of the Elgar Cello Concerto in E Minor, which she singlehandedly propelled to the forefront of cello repertoire.

Classical music is a foundational part of my life and has carried me through many difficult eras. Elgar’s Cello Concerto in E Minor is one of my all time favorite pieces, which I first played several years ago.

It was the last notable work that Elgar composed, towards the end of his life, and was received terribly upon its premier.

I found a deep connection to this piece because of how the piece starts out melancholic yet hopeful, meanders, and then finishes off victoriously. Each movement of the piece has become a favorite for me at different points of my life.

During a difficult time of my life, the first movement showed me that it’s possible to hold despair and hope at the same time, and while the last movement’s opening bars are triumphant, they still hold the memory of bygone suffering.

I love the story that this piece of music tells and I feel that it is universally relatable to the human experience — and definitely to me.

Jacqueline du Pré’s recordings are one of my biggest inspirations and although her career tragically ended too early with a diagnosis of multiple sclerosis, her impact on cellists everywhere can still be felt.

My cello free pattern is now also available at this link!

Tips for crocheting a doll (for beginners!)

I love crocheting dolls because they allow me to make adorable depictions of some of my favorite characters people (like Jackie!). However, dolls tend to be on the more difficult end of the amigurumi spectrum because they have many more parts than animals, sometimes including tiny clothing.

One additional challenge that dolls often pose is their hair. Jackie’s hair is one of the more complex types of hair to create because each individual strand is crocheted from scratch, but don’t worry!

I’ve provided detailed photos and carefully labeled diagrams below so that you can’t go wrong.

If you’re a beginner tackling this pattern, I would recommend that you pay particularly close attention to the orientation of your hook and each piece as you attach it.

The hair is the most complex part, and I’ve labeled each strand with a number. I recommend and instruct you below to pin each strand of hair before you sew or glue it down so that you can visualize the final product first.

More free crochet doll patterns:

• Carmen the Mini Doll (a flamboyant dancer!)
• Kitsune the Fox Doll
• The Little Prince
• The Sugar Plum Fairy (one of my favorites!)
• Juliet the Mini Doll

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

Jacqueline the Mini Doll is a petite sized doll with an elegant concert dress who fits in the palm of your hand. This doll is inspired by the legendary English cellist Jacqueline du Pré (1945-1987). During her short career, du Pré achieved mainstream popularity and is credited with cementing the Elgar Cello Concerto into the modern cello repertoire. She is an intermediate amigurumi because of the technique necessary to create her hair, along with creating the collar of her dress.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Cream (fair skin color)
  • (<1 skein) Almond (light brown)
  • (<1 skein) Wine (dark red)
  • (<1 skein) Blush

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• (optional) hot glue gun

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

2. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Cream, CC1 is Almond, CC2 is Wine, and CC3 is Blush.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial
• FSC (Foundation Single Crochet): click here for tutorial

Final Size

4.5″ x 2″

LEGS (in MC. Watch this video tutorial for help on connecting the legs.)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: sc around (5 sts)
• Round 3: sc, inc, 3 sc (6 sts)
• Round 4: sc around (6 sts)
• Round 5: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc (7 sts)
• Round 6: sc around (7 sts)

Stuff very lightly. Finish off and weave in the end. Make another identically but do not finish off.

Chain 2 off the side of the leg, attach yarn to the remaining leg and sc 7 around the leg you just attached the yarn to. Sc 2 in the connecting chains, sc 7 around the first leg, sc 2 in the connecting chains. (18 sts)

See this video tutorial for help on connecting the legs.

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: inc x2, 7 sc, inc x2, 7 sc (22 sts)
• Switch to CC2.
• Round 2: inc, sc 10, inc, sc 10 (24 sts)
• Round 3: BLO, sc around (24 sts)
• Round 4: (dec, 2 sc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 5-8 (4 rnds): sc around (18 sts)
• Stuff lightly.
• Round 9: FLO, 7 sc, 2 hdc, dc, chain 3 and slst, chain 3 and dc, 2 hdc, 6 sc (22 sts, counting each chain 3 as one stitch)

Invisible finish off (see Special Stitches), leaving a tail for sewing. See Fig. 1 and 2 for front and back view of the body at this point.

DRESS (Worked in joined rounds in CC2.)

• Begin: Orient the doll body so that the legs are pointed away from you (see Fig. 3). Insert the hook through one of the front loops visible from round 3 of the body, and pull yarn through and chain once to attach.
  • Continue working around the body, picking up stitches by inserting the hook into each new loop and crocheting as usual.
  • See this video tutorial for help on picking up stitches and attaching yarn!
• Round 1: chain 1 and hdc all around, slst to the first stitch (24 sts)
• Round 2: chain 1, hdc inc x24, slst to the first stitch (48 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds): chain 1, hdc around, slst to the first stitch (48 sts)
• Invisible finish off (see Special Stitches). See Fig. 4 for completed dress.

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-15 (7 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
• Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart.
• Embroider a nose using MC directly between the eyes, 2 stitches wide.
• Round 16: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 22: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head to the body.

ARMS (in MC)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (6 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (6 sts)
• Round 4: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (5 sts)
• Round 5-6 (2 rnds): sc around (5 sts)

Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the body and the head.

HAIR (in CC1)
The hair is created by first crocheting a small circle, and then crocheting many hair strands stemming from the circle.

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)

We will now create 22 strands (S) of hair.

• S1-8 (8 strands): chain 25 and beginning in the second chain from the hook, sc 24 back. Slip stitch into the next stitch on the circle to secure the hair strand.
• S9-22 (14 strands): chain 19 and beginning in the third chain from the hook, hdc 16 back. Slip stitch into the next stitch on the circle twice (one slst in each stitch).

Finish off and weave in end. Glue the hair circle (not the hair strands) to the head with the right side downwards and continue following directions to pin down all the hair strands until you are satisfied with the hair style.

Arrange the hair strands so that strands 1-8 are oriented at the forehead (Fig. 8). Pin down strands 6 to 18 around the back, framing the face; these will form the main hair layer. (Fig. 5).

Pull back strands 1-6 over the top of the head and then tie them together with a scrap piece of CC1 yarn in a ponytail (Fig. 6, 7, and 8). Leave strands 7-8 on the side.

Strands 7-8 are secured to the right side of the face, left curly, acting as side bangs (Fig. 9 and 10). Glue down all hair strands using the hot glue gun, carefully removing each pin one by one. Begin with the base layer of hair strands (6-18), then secure the side bangs (7 and 8). Strands 1-6 are tied together in a ponytail.

BLUSH (in CC3)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Invisible finish off and weave in end, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the face directly beneath and to the right and left of the eyes (Fig. 11).

If you want to make the cello as well, here’s the free pattern!

Jacqueline the Cellist is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Jacqueline the Cellist Mini Doll Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A Storybook Princess

I’ve been loving making so many amigurumi dolls like the Sugar Plum Fairy and Carmen, and Juliet is the next one in line! She has a chibi stature just like Carmen, and features a gorgeous yellow dress with gold accents and embroidery details.

Doll hair can be extremely complex and frustrating to create, but I love that Juliet’s hairstyle is simple and no more difficult than any other part of the doll. She has an elegant hair cap and bun that come together to form her ballerina hairstyle, with two small braid accents. Juliet is perfect for a confident beginner who has made a teddy bear or two and maybe even a doll, but she can be simplified or embellished as you wish! Of course, the best part of amigurumi dolls is that they can be customized to match anyone or any outfit you choose.

Another Musical Design!

Juliet’s outfit was inspired by the ballet of Romeo and Juliet scored by Prokofiev (and the Macmillan choreography). She has a bun because she’s a ballerina, and the two little braids on either side of her head interestingly appear to be a common theme across productions.

Romeo and Juliet (the play) was first produced by Shakespeare in 1597, but has origins in a story called Pyramus and Thisbe, related in Ovid’s Metamorphoses in 8 AD. This story in turn had roots prior to that time in an etiological myth to explain the color of mulberries. All that is to say, this is a tale nearly as old as time.

More recently, the classical composer Sergei Prokofiev wrote a score for a ballet production of Romeo and Juliet, premiering in 1940 in Soviet Russia, to which English choreographer Kenneth Macmillan later choreographed his own performance in 1964 for the Royal Ballet, resulting in a gripping, ethereal rendition of an ancient story. In this version, Juliet is commonly costumed as a young woman with her hair coiled in a bun and braids as well as a white or yellow dress with gold accents.

Here’s another version from the same choreography, where the ballerina dancing Juliet wears a slightly different dress (still white and gold), and appears to have a similar hairstyle. The version that I crocheted does not have quite as many embellishments, but the bands across the body attempt to echo the kind of finery that Juliet is wearing in this scene.

To see Juliet’s costume in action, watch the famous balcony scene (“but soft, what light through yonder window breaks?”), where Juliet and Romeo meet for the first time as themselves, rendered heartbreakingly beautiful through ballet.

Juliet often wears white or yellow either to signal her status as a young, unwed girl, or also to indicate her neutrality in the conflict between the Montagues (symbolized with blue) and Capulets (symbolized with red). To see a truly epic visual of what the Capulets may have looked like, watch the “Dance of the Knights” to see one of the fair houses in Verona strutting their stuff for all they’re worth. The pompous, grandiose melody is one of the most iconic melodies from Prokofiev’s score and simply emanates grandeur.

The low brass punctuate the haughty steps of the lords and the violins sing the curtseys of the ladies. Though characterized by different instruments, both melodies manage to convey an utter disdain that is almost palpable through the screen when coupled with an outrageously swaggering dance.

I had the opportunity to play an orchestral suite of this ballet a year ago with the Berkshire Symphony and I may have died of happiness. Funnily enough, I had to play excerpts from the notoriously difficult Tybalt’s Death scene a few years prior for a youth orchestra that I did not end up getting into, but getting to play the Dance of the Knights in orchestra definitely made up for it. But I digress.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Juliet the Mini Doll is a petite sized doll with an elegant golden dress that fits in the palm of your hand. The eponymous character from one of the “houses alike in dignity,” Juliet appears here garbed in an innocent yellow dress characteristic of her costume from the ball scene Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet, choreographed by Kenneth Macmillan.

Yarn

• Hobbii Amigo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Light Peach
  • (<1 skein) Curry
  • (<1 skein) Primrose
    • light yellow
  • (<1 skein) Light Pink

Notions

• Size D (3.25 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread
• (optional) hot glue gun

Abbreviations (US)

• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dc inc: double crochet increase (work 2 dcs in the same stitch)
• dec: decrease
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• hdc: half double crochet
• hdc inc: half double crochet increase (work 2 hdcs in same stitch)
• inc: increase (work 2 scs in same stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: sc x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches in round/row
• (…) x: repeat stitches within brackets x times
• *…*: work stitches within asterisks all in the same stitch

Special Stitches

Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
• For this pattern, the MC is light peach, CC1 is primrose (light yellow), CC2 is curry, and CC3 is light pink.

Final Size

4.5″ x 2″

LEG (in MC. Watch this video tutorial for help on connecting the legs.)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: sc around (5 sts)
• Round 3: sc, inc, 3 sc (6 sts)
• Round 4: sc around (6 sts)
• Round 5: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc (7 sts)
• Round 6: sc around (7 sts)
• Stuff very lightly. Finish off and weave in the end. Make another identically but do not finish off.
• Chain 2 off the side of the leg, attach yarn to the remaining leg and sc 7 around the leg you just attached the yarn to. Sc 2 in the connecting chains, sc 7 around the first leg, sc 2 in the connecting chains. (18 sts)

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: inc x2, 7 sc, inc x2, 7 sc (22 sts)
• Round 2: inc, sc 10, inc, sc 10 (24 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (24 sts)
• Round 4: (dec, 2 sc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 5-8: (4 rnds) sc around (18 sts)
• Stuff. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-15: (7 rnds) sc around (48 sts)
• Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart.
• Embroider a nose using MC directly between the eyes, 2 stitches wide.
• Round 16: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts) Stuff.
• Round 22: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head to the body.

ARMS (in MC)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (6 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (6 sts)
• Round 4: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (5 sts)
• Round 5-6: (2 rnds) sc around (5 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the body and the head.

DRESS (Worked in turned rows until row 6, then in joined rounds. Begin in CC1, then switch to CC2 at round 7. See Abbreviations for FSC. )

• Row 1 FSC 14, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 2 sc, hdc, 3 dc, 4 slst, 3 dc, hdc, sc, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 3 inc, dc inc, 3 sk, dc inc, 2 slst, dc inc, 3 sk, dc inc, inc, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 4 (6 sc, inc) x2, chain and turn (16 sts)
• Slip stitch into the first stitch to join your work into a round. We will now work in joined rounds. Round 5 chain, (hdc, hdc inc) x8, slst (24 sts) Round 6 chain, (hdc, hdc inc) x12, slst (36 sts) Switch to CC2. Do not cut CC1.
• Round 7-8 (2 rnds) chain, hdc around, slst (36 sts) Do not cut CC2 yarn and switch to CC1.
• Round 9 chain, sc around, slst (36 sts)
• Cut CC1 yarn and switch to CC2.
• Round 10 chain, sc around, slst (36 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using CC1, embroider little crosses on the large band of CC2 on the dress. Each cross is about 2 stitches wide, with about 2 stitches between crosses. Put the dress on the doll (the back will be open). Using the tail from the top of the dress, sew the back of the dress closed. At this point the dress will not be removable.

HAIR (in CC2)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7 (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8 (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-13 (5 rnds) sc around (48 sts)
• Round 14 chain 2, 23 dc, slst, 24 dc (48 sts)
• Finish off, and weave in the end. Attach the hair cap to the head by sewing or with hot glue.

BUN (in CC2)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5-8 (4 rnds) sc all around (24 sts) Round 9 (sc4, dec) x2.
• Working off the side of the round, we will now make the two looped braids: Chain 20 and slst in the same stitch.
• Continue working in the round: (sc4, dec) x2.
• Make the second looped braid: chain 20 off the side and slst in the same stitch. (20 sts)
• Stuff firmly. Finish off and sew to the back of the hair.

BLUSH (in CC3)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew the blush directly under and to the side of both eyes.

I hope you enjoyed making Juliet the Mini Doll! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

These 7 easy crochet doll free patters are a delight because they are a collection of ballerina dolls anyone will enjoy making. It includes Amigurumi doll free pattern ideas with different types of clothes and hair, crochet animals like hippo, giraffe, and kitten.

The post Juliet the Mini Doll Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A beginner friendly doll!

If you’re someone who has been intimidated by amigurumi dolls, look no further. If you can make an animal amigurumi, then you can make this doll! Carmen is absolutely gorgeous, but only requires the most basic stitches — single crochet, half double crochet, and chain stitches.

Many people tend also to be intimidated by dolls because making hair can seem intimidating. That’s why I’m so excited to share that Carmen’s hair is extremely straightforward and familiar to those who are mainly animal or ball-shaped amigurumi makers. Her bun hairstyle with side bangs is gorgeous and easy, such a win-win!

Carmen can also be easily adapted or customized by altering her skin, hair, and dress colors. You can use this pattern to become a mini-me, a doll of your child, or for fanart! I love that doll patterns are so versatile and can be changed so easily.

A musically inspired femme-fatale

Like many of my amigurumi, Carmen is inspired by one of my passions, classical music. Carmen is the titular character in the French opera Carmen. Her outfit is Spanish-inspired, since the opera is set in Spain, during a time when French society (including the composer, Georges Bizet), romanticized Spanish society. The opera is dramatic, and contains some of the most famous arias in operatic history, including the Habanera, sung by Carmen. Although Carmen plays a villain and seductress, luring Don-José away from his betrothed, she has now come to symbolize female strength and determination beyond the bounds of society since she remains true to herself even until her own death.

This recording is one of many stagings of the opera, but all iterations share similar features. A dark haired female lead, with a frothy and rustic skirt, and a rose. The rose that Carmen throws towards Don José in this scene represents the fickle love that she croons about, which in turn will prove to be his downfall.

In my interpretation of Carmen, I alluded to the curly hair in the video above through the wispy bangs, with the rest of the hair pulled back. Her bright dress billows out with white edging at the bottom, reference one of the most common costume choices for Carmen, since she’s so closely associated with love, lust, and vitality. Of course, the beautiful rose tucked into her hair echoes the same wavy texture that is found in her dress and hair, and ties together her hair and dress nicely. Seriously, I’m super proud of this one!

My own love affair with Carmen

To me, Carmen is near and dear to my heart because it was one of two operas I performed with my youth orchestra in Cambridge. Classical music was and is a foundational piece of my identity, and I’m not sure if anything else will be able to come close any time soon.

To me, music and emotion are inextricably tied to each other, and the voices in an orchestra form the chorus of my soul. I have never felt more alive and human than when I am able to express myself in this most intimate of ways, and being able to perform this opera meant that I felt Carmen’s joys and sorrows as if they were my own.

Although the story is indeed compelling, when I performed this opera, it was as a part of a hundred person orchestra, a large chorus, and several soloists, all focusing in razor precision to interweave our voices to the accuracy of a millisecond. It was one of the most humbling and deeply, deeply, profound experiences I have had in my life to be able to be one and the same with hundreds of individuals to perform this beautifully choreographed opera. To breathe on one’s own and know that a hundred others are breathing at the same moment is truly an exercise in collaboration and synergy. Carmen remains a treasure to me because of those experiences and to remind me of the wonder of making music with fellow human beings.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Carmen the Mini Doll is a petite sized doll with a brilliant scarlet dress that fits in the palm of your hand. Customize her skin, hair, and dress, to any color you want and create a mini-me, or just a gift for a child!

Yarn

• Hobbii Amigo (sport weight)
• (<1 skein) beige
  • light beige, can be substituted for any skin color
• (<1 skein) dark brown
  • can be substituted for any hair color
• (<1 skein) red
  • can be substituted for other dress color
• (<1 skein) white
  • for lining of dress
• (<1 skein) pink
  • for blush

Notions

• Size D (3.25 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• hot glue gun

Abbreviations (US)

• MR: Magic ring
• Sc: Single crochet
• Ch: Chain
• Sl st: Slip stitch
• Yo: Yarn over
• Hdc: Half double crochet
• Hdc inc: Work 2 hdcs in one stitch
• Dc: Double crochet
• Inc: Increase
• Dec: Decrease
• S: Hair strand
• Sts: Stitches
• FO: Fasten off
• (…) x: repeat stitches within parentheses x times
• *…*: work stitches within asterisks all in the same stitch
• Sk: skip one stitch
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• MC: main color
• CC: contrast color

Special Stitches

Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

• Use sewing pins to secure limbs of the amigurumi before you sew them.
• For this pattern, the MC is beige, CC1 is red, CC2 is dark brown, CC3 is white, and CC4 is pink.

Final Size

4.5″ x 2″

LEG (in MC. Watch this video tutorial for help on connecting the legs.)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: sc around (5 sts)
• Round 3: sc, inc, 3 sc (6 sts)
• Round 4: sc around (6 sts)
• Round 5: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc (7 sts)
• Round 6: sc around (7 sts)
• Stuff very lightly. Finish off and weave in the end. Make another identically but do not finish off.
• Chain 2 off the side of the leg, attach yarn to the remaining leg and sc 7 around the leg you just attached the yarn to. Sc 2 in the connecting chains, sc 7 around the first leg, sc 2 in the connecting chains. (18 sts)

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: inc x2, 7 sc, inc x2, 7 sc (22 sts)
• Round 2: inc, sc 10, inc, sc 10 (24 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (24 sts)
• Round 4: (dec, 2 sc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 5-8: (4 rnds) sc around (18 sts)
• Stuff. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-15: (7 rnds) sc around (48 sts)
• Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart.
• Embroider a nose using MC directly between the eyes, 2 stitches wide.
• Round 16: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 21: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts) Stuff.
• Round 22: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head to the body.

ARMS (in MC)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (6 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (6 sts)
• Round 4: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (5 sts)
• Round 5-6: (2 rnds) sc around (5 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the body and the head.

DRESS (Worked in turned rows until row 6, then in joined rounds. Begin in CC1, then switch to CC3. See Abbreviations for FSC.)

• Row 1: FSC14, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 2: sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, 4 sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 3: inc, dc inc, 3 sk, dc inc, 2 sc, dc inc, 3 sk, dc inc, inc, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 4: (6 sc, inc) x2, chain and turn (16 sts)
• Row 5: (7 sc, inc) x2, chain and turn (18 sts)
• Row 6: (8 sc, inc) x2, chain (20 sts)
• Slip stitch into the first stitch to join your work into a round. We will now work in joined rounds. Round 7 chain, hdc inc x20 (40 sts)
• Round 8: chain, hdc around (40 sts)
• Round 9: chain, hdc inc x40 (80 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Switch to CC3. Attach yarn to the bottom of the skirt in the back.
• Round 10: (chain 4, skip one stitch, then slst into the next stitch) x40
• Invisible finish off and weave in end. Put the dress on the doll (the back will be open). Using the tail from the top of the dress, sew the back of the dress closed. At this point the dress will not be removable.

HAIR (in CC2)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-13: (5 rnds) sc around (48 sts)
• Round 14: ch, 23 dc, slip stitch in next stitch. We will now create four strands (S) of hair while working round 14.
• S1: chain 23 and sc 22 back. Slip stitch into the original slip stitch.
• S2: chain 17 and sc 16 back. Slip stitch into the next stitch. S3: chain 17 and sc 16 back, slip stitch onto the same slip stitch.
• S4: chain 23 and sc 22 back. Slip stitch into the next stitch. Continue working in the round, making 22 dc to finish the round and slip stitch in the first stitch to join. (48 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Glue or sew the hair cap to the head. Arrange the hair strands so that there are 2 on the left and 2 on the right, with the longer ones behind the shorter ones. Glue the long hair strands down to about eye level, and the shorter ones to the forehead.

BUN (in CC2)

• Round 1: sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5-8: (4 rnds) sc all around (24 sts) Round 9 (sc4, dec) x4 (20 sts)
• Stuff firmly. Finish off and sew to the back of the hair.

ROSE (in CC1, in turned rows. Refer to Abbreviations for meaning of *…*. For assistance with the rose, watch the video tutorial here.)

• Row 1: chain 21 (21 sts)
• Row 2: working from the second chain from the hook, (sc, 2 ch, sk) x8, sc, 2 ch, slst into last stitch. Chain 2 and turn (10 sts, 9 chain spaces)
• Row 3: working into the chain space, (3 dc, ch, slst, slst to next chain space) x3, (3 hdc, ch, slst, slst to next chain space) x3, (3 sc, ch, slst, slst to the next chain space) x2, 3 sc, ch, slst. (9 petals)
• Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
• With the single crochet petals in the center, wrap the other end of the work around the single crochet end, until the rose is as flat or conical as you wish. Using the tail end, sew across the bottom of the rose to secure in place, then sew to the seam between the bun and the hair.

BLUSH (in CC4)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew the blush directly under and to the side of both eyes.

Carmen the Mini Doll is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy. Once again, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me with a direct message on Instagram or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com. Happy crocheting!

The post Carmen the Mini Doll Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

From the ballet stage to your hands

As a long time cellist and lover of classical music, I absolutely adore Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker. The orchestra score is beautiful, but I also love the association between the most iconic scenes and Christmas. The Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy is probably the most famous melody from The Nutcracker, and the accompanying dance is gravity defying, whimsical, and magical.

With Christmas time rapidly approaching, I wanted to try to make my own amigurumi rendition of this beautiful figure. The most important elements to me were the Sugar Plum Fairy’s elegant, poufy dress, as well as the small silver crown that she wears.

The perfect doll base

I’ve made several dolls in the past, including a cute princess doll over the summer, but I haven’t been quite satisfied with the resulting doll body. I wanted tight stitches that would create a dense fabric without any gaps, but previously I used an extremely small hook that made my hands ache after working for a while.

This time, I sized my hook up and used the x stitch to create the small x’s instead of v’s that you see on the surface of the crochet fabric. The x stitch results in slightly tighter stitches and looks a little neater, which resulted in the perfect combination. My final product also resulted in slight detailing for the hands as well as a subtle oval shape to the head, which I felt added to the polish of this revision.

I love that this doll only uses the most basic stitches, so that it’s approachable even for beginners. If you’ve ever made an animal amigurumi, then you can make this doll! The Sugar Plum Fairy’s gorgeous dress is made up of a series of shell stitches to create the elegant and sophisticated eyelets and scalloped edge.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Sugar Plum Fairy

This Sugar Plum Fairy doll is an adorable and elegant homage to Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker ballet. Her delicate dress and tiny crown are a nod to the graceful and regal dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy in the iconic ballet. This project can be made with the most basic crochet stitches — all that’s needed is a little extra patience!

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (Sport Weight)
  • Color: Almond (<1 skein)
  • Color: Cream (<1 skein)
  • Color: Blush (<1 skein)

• Drops Air (Worsted Weight)
  • Color: Light Pink (<1 skein)

• Lion Brand Yarn Baby Soft (Sport Weight)
  • Color: White (<1 skein)

• Red Heart Croquette (Fingering)
  • Color: Calming (<1 skein)

Notions

• Size D (3.25 mm) Clover Amour Hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers

Abbreviations (US)

• MR: Magic ring
• Sc: Single crochet
• Sc x: sc x number of times
• Ch: Chain
• Sl st: Slip stitch
• Rnd: round
• Yo: Yarn over
• Hdc: Half double crochet
• Dc: Double crochet
• Inc: Increase
• Dec: Decrease
• Sts: Stitches
• FO: Fasten off
• (x sts): x total stitches in round/row
• (…) x: repeat stitches within parentheses x times
• *…*: work stitches within asterisks all in the same stitch
• Sk: skip one stitch
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)

Special Stitches

Shell stitch: For this pattern, the shell stitch is as follows: (*hdc2, ch, hdc2*, skip the number of stitches specified).

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

Final Size

6″ x 2″

Pattern

LEGS (in any skin color sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3-11 (9 rnds) sc all around (8 sts)
• Stuff lightly, using the back of a crochet hook or chopstick to push the stuffing down. Finish off the first leg and then create a second leg identically, but do not finish off the second leg. Continue to body.

BODY (in any skin color sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook)

• Round 12 sc all around both legs (16 sts)
• Round 13-20 (8 rnds) sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 21 (sc6, dec) x2 (14 sts)
• Round 22 sc all around (14 sts)
• Round 23 (sc5, dec) x2 (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

HEAD (in any skin color sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7 (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-16 (9 rnds) sc all around (42 sts)
• Place 6.0 mm safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, 8 stitches apart.
• Round 17 (sc5, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18 (sc4, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19 (sc3, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20 (sc2, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 21 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 22 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head and body together.

ARMS (in any skin color sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook)

Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
Round 2 (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
Round 3 sc all around (8 sts)
Round 4 (sc2, dec) x2 (6 sts)
Round 5-9 (5 rnds) sc all around (6 sts)
Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a short tail. Sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the head and body.

DRESS (in pink worsted weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, worked in turned rows until row 6, then in joined rounds)

• Row 1 FSC14, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 2 sc, hdc, dc2, hdc, sc4, hdc, dc2, hdc, sc, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 3 inc, dc inc, sk3, dc inc, sc2, dc inc, sk3, dc inc, inc, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 4 (sc6, inc) x2, chain and turn (16 sts)
• Row 5 (sc7, inc) x2, chain and turn (18 sts)
• Row 6 (sc8, inc) x2, chain (20 sts)
• Slip stitch into the first stitch to join your work into a round. We will now work in joined rounds of shell stitches (refer to special stitches section). In this pattern, … means to work everything within the asterisks in the same stitch.
• Round 7 *ch (counts as hdc), hdc, ch, hdc2*, sk, (*hdc2, ch, hdc2*) x9, slst into the first chain (10 shell stitches)
• Round 8-10 (3 rnds) slip stitch two more times until you’re working in the chain space of the first shell stitch. *ch (counts as hdc), hdc, ch, hdc2*, (skip the next 4 hdcs and work in the next chain space *hdc2, ch, hdc2*) x9, slst into the first chain (10 shell stitches)
• Add another round if you wish. Invisible finish off bottom of dress and weave in ends.

SLEEVES (in pink worsted weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 Attach yarn to bottom stitch in sleeve hole, and ch (does not count as a stitch), sc 7 all around the hole, slst (7 sts)
• Round 2 ch, hdc, (hdc2, hdc inc) x2, slst (9 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (hdc2, hdc inc) x3, slst (12 sts)
• Invisible finish off and weave in ends. Slide the dress on the doll (it may need a little tugging) and seam the back closed. The dress will not be removable after this stage.

SLIPPERS (in pink worsted weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
Round 2 ch, inc x6, slst (12 sts)
Round 3-5 (3 rnds) ch, sc all around, slst (12 sts)
Invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Sew the slippers to the bottom of the legs. Cut short pieces of white yarn and tie them around the center stitch in the top round.

HAIR (in light brown sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
• Round 2 ch, inc x6, slst (12 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (sc, inc) x6, slst (18 sts)
• Round 4 ch, (sc2, inc) x6, slst (24 sts)
• Round 5 ch, (sc3, inc) x6, slst (30 sts)
• Round 6 ch, (sc4, inc) x6, slst (36 sts)
• Round 7 ch, (sc5, inc) x6, slst (42 sts)
• Round 8-11 (4 rnds) ch, sc all around, slst (42 sts)
• Round 12 ch2, dc19, hdc, slst, hdc, dc20, slst (42 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Position the hair piece on the head off center so that the back of the hair falls three rounds away from the body/dress, and orient the part slightly to the left. Sew hair piece to the head.

BUN (in light brown sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
• Round 2 ch, inc x6, slst (12 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (sc, inc) x6, slst (18 sts)
• Round 4 ch, (sc2, inc) x6, slst (24 sts)
• Round 5-8 (4 rnds) ch, sc all around, slst (24 sts) Round 9 ch, (sc4, dec) x4, slst (20 sts)
• Stuff firmly. Finish off and sew to the back of the hair.

CHEEKS (in pink sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 Sc6 in MR, slst into first stitch
• Invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Sew beneath and to the right/left of the eyes. Sew a nose two stitches wide directly between the eyes using two or three stitches of the same skin colored yarn that you used for the head.

CROWN (using a 2.0 mm hook and fingering weight silver yarn, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 sc12 in MR, slst (12 sts)
• Round 2 ch, sc all around, slst (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, ch3, slst in 2nd chain from hook, sc in 3rd chain from hook, sc in next stitch) x6, slst (12 sts and 6 spikes)
• Finish off and sew to top of head, around 4 rounds away from the bangs.

I hope you enjoyed making this Sugar Plum Fairy doll! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The post Sugar Plum Fairy Free Crochet Doll Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.