I am so excited to show you how to make this beautiful bookmark, a project that took me just 35 minutes to complete!

What I love most about this design is the combination of the stitches and texture. Depending on the color of yarn you choose, the bookmark can exude a variety of vibes—intellectual, delicate, or playful. It’s a versatile piece that can be tailored to your personal style or that of the lucky recipient.

In today’s digital age, where so much of our reading happens online, there is still something special about holding a physical book. Whether you are traveling, relaxing by the beach, or curled up in your living room with a cozy blanket and a cup of coffee, a good book is always a welcome companion. And what better way to mark your place than with a handcrafted bookmark like this? It’s a simple yet thoughtful accessory that adds a touch of charm and elegance to your reading experience.

This bookmark also makes a wonderful gift. Surprise your family or friends with one, and watch their faces light up. It’s a small gesture, but one that feels incredibly personal and meaningful.

The beauty of this project lies in its adaptability. The length and thickness of the bookmark can vary depending on the yarn you choose. At the end of this article, I’ll share a few examples of different types  of  yarns to inspire you.

Don’t worry if you are a beginner—this project is straightforward and easy to follow. The key is to pay attention to the symmetry on both sides, which ensures a polished and balanced final product. Once you get the hang of it, I’m confident you’ll find yourself making one, two, three… and before you know it, you’ll have the pattern memorized, crafting bookmarks effortlessly. How great is that?

For this tutorial, I have used mercerised yarn, which is known for its lustrous finish and durability. It adds an elegant touch to the bookmark, making it look and feel more luxurious.

Now, regarding the tassel—a detail that adds a touch of flair and functionality. I’ve used a key card to wrap the yarn, but a credit card works just as well. Here’s a little pro tip: after tying off the tassel and trimming the excess yarn, apply a tiny dab of clear  fabric glue to the knot. This not only secures it but also gives a neat and tidy finish.

And let’s not forget the beads! They are the perfect finishing touch. Whether you choose pearled, wooden, or glass beads, they’re widely available online or in craft stores. Pick a color that contrasts nicely with your yarn to make the bookmark pop!

Now, let’s dive into the tutorial and get started on making this charming piece. You are going to love it!

MATERIALS

100% mercerised cotton brown yarn

50 G = 125 M

2.5 mm crochet hook

Beads

Yarn needle

Fabric glue

Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS (US)

Ch chain

SC single crochet

DC double crochet

Sl St slip stitch

St(s) stitch(es)

(x sts) x total stitches in round

Rnd round

[…]x repeat stitches within brackets x times

Sk skip

PATTERN

51 ch

Rnd 1 :   sk 1 stitch. 1 sc (from 2nd stitch ) x 50 = 50

Rnd 2 – 3 :  ch 1, turn. (1 sc x 50)

Rnd 4 :  1 ch, turn. 1 sc in the 2nd stitch from the hook, *sk 1 st, 5 DC into the next st, sk 1                 

st, 1 sl st into the next st. Repeat from * all around the piece including the original chain base. Finish with a sc. Fasten off. Cut.

I managed to bring both threads to the back and tied them.

TASSEL:

Cut 15 inches of yarn. With the help of a regular credit card, place the piece of yarn in a horizontal position (as you see in the picture below on the left). Then take the ball of yarn and place the beginning of the thread in a vertical position, go around 16 times in this position (as you see in the picture below on the right).

Carefully remove the top right part creating a loop. Then remove the top left part of the thread passing it through the loop on the right (as you see in the picture on the left).  Pull and remove everything from the card.

Then cut 18 inches of yarn and pass it  around the superior part of the tassel making it like a “little head”. Make a couple of knots and  with the help of a yarn needle hide the extra thread through the center of the knot.

Next step, cut the edges and make sure they are aligned.

Now, take your yarn needle and thread the two strands that hold the small “head” through the hole of the bead, as shown in the picture below. Once the bead is in place, insert one of the threads into the final, central part of the bookmark. Tie two secure knots to anchor the bead. Ensure the knots are positioned on the back side of the bookmark for a clean, seamless look.

To secure the knots, apply a small dab of clear glue over the tight knot and let it sit for a few minutes to dry. Once the glue has set, trim any excess yarn for a neat finish.

You might notice that the edges of your bookmark are a bit curly—don’t worry! This is a common occurrence, and there’s a simple fix. Place your beautifully crafted bookmark between the folds of a bedsheet and gently press it with a warm iron on both sides. If you’d like, you can use spray starch for added stiffness, but I personally prefer the ironing method for a crisp, polished look.

And voilá!! All done!

Now, time to enjoy a good book with our new creation :)… bye bye …

Few examples using other types of yarns :

The post Crochet Bookmark appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A sleek and elegant phone sling with a huge pop of color!

I really really love granny squares, but since I mostly make amigurumi I don’t get a chance to use them that often.

When I thought of creating this phone sling, I really wanted it to have a neutral and minimalist look, but to have a beautiful granny square in the middle as an accent.

Fun fact: this granny square actually doubles as a pocket!

I created the Starburst Granny Square pattern because I wanted to have a hint of a floral motif, but mostly to use beautiful warm tones to create a radiating motif.

This bag is a little tricky for beginners because of the granny square motif as well as the detail work in creating the strap and button closure, but I’m proud to say that this pattern is entirely no-sew except for the pocket!

I know a lot of you really dislike sewing, so I made sure the strap and button closure were all worked in the round seamlessly.

Tips for making your first bag!

If you’ve never made a bag or home decor item, here are a few tips to get you on your way.

• Choose your yarn carefully. I used WeCrochet CotLin, and I sized down my hook to way below the recommended size to keep my stitches neat and tight. Bags are meant to have a lot of structure, so you’ll need to work very dense stitches to ensure that the bag isn’t too stretchy.
• I highly recommend Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton or any other durable cotton yarn. Cotton is pretty inelastic, and definitely avoid any stretchy yarns like acrylic or wool blends.
• This pattern is designed to hold a 6″ x 3″ phone including a case, which are approximately the dimensions of the current iPhone.
• If you want to make your bag wider or narrower, add more chains in the initial chain of the bag.
• To make your bag taller or shorter, add more “hdc around” rounds or skip to the next steps early.

More home decor crochet projects:

• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern
• Heart Pillow Free Crochet Pattern
• Desk Succulent Free Crochet Pattern
• Ribbed Crochet Pumpkin Free Crochet Pattern
• Bear Throw Cushion Free Crochet Pattern

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This gorgeous phone sling fits all your essentials including your phone, card holder, and even has an outer slip pocket for earphones or airpods. You can mix and match this phone sling with any granny square pattern you like!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet CotLin (DK weight)
  • (1 skein) Swan (white)
• (<1 skein) Marigold (orange)
• (<1 skein) Clementine (dark orange)
• (<1 skein) Creme Brulee (custard yellow)

Notions

• Size C 2.5mm Clover Amour hook
• brown embroidery thread
• 1/2″ brown button
• sewing pins
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• dc: duoble crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• tr: treble crochet
• WS: wrong side
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous joined rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. You should use cotton yarn for this pattern to avoid overly stretchy fabric. I would recommend Lion Brand 24/7 cotton as well as the WeCrochet CotLin that I used.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. When crocheting the strap in round 28 of the bag, feel free to adjust it to your desired length. I wanted the bag to rest on my hip, and I’m 5’2″, so I worked 220 chain stitches. If you’re making any adjustments, keep in mind that the strap length will shrink slightly after building up it with single crochet stitches.

Color Coding

In this pattern, the MC is white, CC1 is orange, CC2 is dark orange. and CC3 is custard yellow.

Special Stitches

• Cluster Stitch: See tutorial
• Popcorn Stitch: See tutorial

Final Size

4″ x 6.5″, strap drop 20″ (adjustable)

BAG (begin)

• Begin: chain 25 (25 sts)
• Round 1: from the second chain from the hook, hdc across. Work 3 hdcs in the last chain with the slip knot, then hdc across. Work 2 hdcs in the last stitch. Sl st to first st. See here for a tutorial on working around a foundation chain. (50 sts)
• Round 2: chain (doesn’t count as a st), (hdc, hdc inc) x2, hdc 17, (hdc, hdc inc) x4, hdc 17, (hdc, hdc inc) x2. Slst to first st (58 sts)
• Round 3-26 (23 rnds): chain, hdc around, slst to first stitch. (58 sts)
• Round 27: chain, sc around (58 sts)

Preparation for crocheting the strap: The side where we have been joining the round is the “wrong side” of the bag, the “right side” is the opposite side. With the WS facing you, place a red stitch marker on the right edge and a purple stitch marker on the left edge (fig. 2).

Round 28: slst to the purple st marker, then chain 220 (adjust according to desired length， see technical notes for more info). Slst to where the red stitch marker is (fig. 3a). With the bag WS facing you, slip stitch across towards the purple stitch marker. When you get halfway, chain 18 and slst into the same stitch (fig. 3b), then continue slip stitching across to the purple stitch marker.

Building up the strap: Once you get to the purple stitch marker, single crochet into each chain stitch, working into the front and back loops at the same time. Crochet loosely when working into each chain stitch. If you crochet too tightly, it will result in a strap that curls.

Slst into the stitch with the red stitch marker and invisible finish off.

GRANNY SQUARE POCKET (begin in CC3. Follow the Starburst Granny Square tutorial on my website)

Make one Starburst Granny Square, but before finishing off, sl st to one corner, then finish off and leave a long tail.

Pin to the front of your bag as shown in fig. 5. It should be on the opposite side as the button loop we just worked onto the top of the bag. Orient the granny square so that the tail is on the top right corner.

Next, sew the square to the top of the bag, from the top right corner down to the top left, across the bottom, and then up the left side. Finish off and weave in end, leaving the top open.

Adding the button: Using 3 threads of brown embroidery floss, sew a button to the 3rd row of the bag (counting from the top). There should be about 13 sts to the left and right of the button.

Your phone sling is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished project, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The post Starburst Granny Square Phone Sling Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

An adorable, multipurpose tiny tote bag!

This project began when I wanted to make a case for my AirPods and wanted to make a tiny tote bag like some trendy ones that I’d seen online.

I love how sweet and simple this project turned out to be, and it’s perfect for showing off beautiful variegated yarn!

If you don’t have wireless earphones, you can also use this tiny bag for party favors, jewelry boxes, or anything else teensy that you want to store!

The best this is that since this pattern is so simple, once you get the hang of it you can easily make it bigger or smaller to fit the exact dimensions you want.

Tips for making this pattern!

This pattern is worked bottom to top, which seems magical but is actually because we start off by working around a foundation chain.

This is one of my favorite techniques since it’s so versatile. You start out by chaining a specific number, and then you’ll work single crochet stitches on both sides to create a long oval. From there, it’s as simple as single crocheting all around to build it up!

If this sounds confusing, check out my in depth tutorial on how to crochet an oval around a foundation chain. It’s truly life changing! You can also watch my video below:

More home decor crochet projects:

• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern
• Heart Pillow Free Crochet Pattern
• Desk Succulent Free Crochet Pattern
• Ribbed Crochet Pumpkin Free Crochet Pattern
• Bear Throw Cushion Free Crochet Pattern

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This adorable mini tote bag is perfect for party favors, tiny treasures, or wireless earphones. This project is a breeze to work up and a great way to use up scrap yarn. You can adapt this pattern to fit any small object you wish to carry, or even for a doll!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Lion Brand Coboo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Olive
  • This sample was worked in indie dyed yarn, but Coboo is the best substitute.

Notions

• Size C 2.5mm Clover Amour hook
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• WS: wrong side
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is olive.

Special Stitches

• How to invisible finish off: see this tutorial

Final Size

3″/8 cm tall 2″/5.5 cm wide

TOTE BAG

• Begin: Chain 13
  • To make your bag wider, just chain more or less!
• Round 1: Beginning from the 2nd chain from the hook, sc 11, then increase in the last chain. Turn your work so that you’re working on the other side of the foundation chain (see this tutorial for how to work around a foundation chain). Sc 11. (24 sts)
  • See fig. 1 for a crochet chart.
• Round 2-14 (13 rnds): sc around (24 sts)
  • To make your bag taller, just add more rounds until the bag is 1/2 inch shorter than you want it to be!
• Round 15: 5 sc, chain 8 and sk 5, 7 sc, chain 8 and sk 5, 2 sc. (30 sts, counting each chain as a stitch)
• Round 16: sc around, working into all the chains along the way. (30 sts)
• Round 17: sc around, sl st to the first stitch (30 sts) Finish off and weave in the tail (fig. 2 and 3)

Your mini tote bag is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished project, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

More like this:

• 20 Cutest FREE Crochet Baby Toy Patterns (for beginners!)
• 14 Quick and Easy Crochet Keychains for Bags (Stashbuster!)
• 12 Cutest Free Crochet Gnome Patterns (beginner friendly!)
• 9 Cutest Totoro Crochet Patterns (from Studio Ghibli!)
• 9 Fun Crochet Jellyfish Patterns!

The post Tiny Tote Bag – Airpods Case – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest earmuffs ever!

Earmuffs are an essential accessory in the wintertime, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make them cute or fun!

I designed this pair of earmuffs in the teeth of a New England winter, and I loved how they turned out and wore them all the time — so I think you’ll love them too!

I was pleasantly surprised by how warm the faux fur yarn I used was and how effective the whole project was as a pair of ear warmers.

I chose to use Lion Brand Go for Faux, but I’ve also had good experiences with WeCrochet’s Fable Fur if you’re looking for an alternative. All faux fur yarns will likely work, so you can take your pick of your stash!

Tips for working with faux fur yarn!

If you’ve never worked with faux fur yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Faux fur is the trickiest of all yarns to work with, but it also hides mistakes the best.

• Faux fur yarn sheds very easily when frogged. Because faux fur yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces.
  • The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• It’s impossible to count stitches to see where the loops are when working with fluffy yarn, so adjust to this difference by feeling for the loops with your fingers.
  • If you try pinching the crochet fabric near your hook, you can identify the stitches by the places where your index finger and thumb can touch.
  • If there’s a hole, it must be created by a stitch! It’s must easier to skip stitches than to work too many, so if in doubt err on the side of more stitches than less.
• Because it’s impossible to count stitches worked in fluffy yarn, it might be helpful to place a stitch marker every five or six stitches that you work in a round.
  • That way, you can keep track in a more systematic way of how many stitches you’re crocheting in a round.
  • It can be really frustrating to not know whether you’re on the right track or not!
• For all the difficulties that fluffy yarn comes with, it also comes with this major plus. That is, since you can’t see the stitches, no one can see your mistakes!
  • If you end up having trouble counting exactly how many stitches there were so far, or you know you’re off by one but can’t tell where you went wrong, don’t worry. I
  • It happens to me, and as long as you make sure you’re in the right ballpark and approximately on track with the increases, then you should be fine.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This bearmuffs pattern is a fun DIY project for the winter! It’s super cute and the faux fur yarn makes wearing them feel like two tiny bear hugs on your head. This project is very quick, but requires using hot glue and also a little experience working with fluffy yarn.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Lion Brand Go for Faux (super bulky)
  • (2 skeins) Pomeranian (light brown)
• Lion Brand Wool-ease (worsted)
  • (<1 skein) Fisherman (white)

Notions

• Size M 9.0mm Clover Amour hook
• Size G 4.0mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• hot glue gun
• brown headband that fits your head

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. It’s impossible to count stitches to see where the loops are when working with fluffy yarn, so adjust to this difference by feeling for the loops with your fingers.
   • If you try pinching the crochet fabric near your hook, you can identify the stitches by the places where your index finger and thumb can touch.
   • If there’s a hole, it must be created by a stitch! It’s must easier to skip stitches than to work too many, so if in doubt err on the side of more stitches than less.
3. Because it’s impossible to count stitches worked in fluffy yarn, it might be helpful to place a stitch marker every five or six stitches that you work in a round.
   • That way, you can keep track in a more systematic way of how many stitches you’re crocheting in a round.
   • It can be really frustrating to not know whether you’re on the right track or not!
4. For all the difficulties that fluffy yarn comes with, it also comes with this major plus. That is, since you can’t see the stitches, no one can see your mistakes!
   • If you end up having trouble counting exactly how many stitches there were so far, or you know you’re off by one but can’t tell where you went wrong, don’t worry. I
   • It happens to me, and as long as you make sure you’re in the right ballpark and approximately on track with the increases, then you should be fine.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is the faux fur in light brown, and the CC is the worsted weight yarn in white.

Special Stitches

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial

Final Size

Earmuff: 4″ x 3″

Band: however wide the headband you use is

EARMUFF CIRCLE (in MC, using larger hook, make 4 total)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Finish off and make 3 more identically.

MUZZLE (in CC, using a 4.0mm hook, make 2 total)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a triangle shaped nose on the muzzle.

Sew the muzzle to the bottom half of one of the earmuff circles, and place two 6.0mm safety eyes just above the muzzle, about an inch (2.5 cm) apart.

Secure the back of the safety eyes both with the plastic backing as well as hot glue, since the gaps between the faux fur yarn are relatively large.

Make another muzzle and repeat these steps on another earmuff circle. If needed, trim some of the yarn fluff around the eyes to make the eyes stand out more. Two of the circles should have faces, and two should not.

HEADBAND (in MC, using a 9mm hook)

(This next step is optional: Wrapping the yarn around the headband can make it slip on your head, so if you prefer your headband to be grippy then skip this step.)

Wrap the yarn around the headband from end to end. Using a hot glue gun, glue the ends of the headband and then wrap the ends of the yarn over the glued headband to secure the ends.

ASSEMBLY

The next instructions involve the assembly as well as forming the bear ears. Since you’ll need to use hot glue which dries fast, please read all the rest of the instructions carefully and use the diagram to help visualize where all the pieces will come together.

Hold together one circle with a face and one without a face. Attach yarn at the bottom of the circle (where the red dot is), and slip stitch 6 from the bottom along the right side, following the arrow.

Then, work 2 dcs and 2 more slip stitches. We have just finished the slip stitch section for the right ear and will now be placing the headband.

Get your headband, and hot glue the bottom 1-2 inches of the headband, and sandwich it between the circles and secure.

The headband should be just aligned with where your crochet hook is.

The bottom of the headband should be securely in the middle of the two circles, around where the muzzle is.

At this point, the headband will be blocking your path, so skip 4 stitches and move the crochet hook to the left side of the headband (where the other slip stitch section is marked on the photo above).

Continue crocheting around the headband: 2 slst, 2 dc, then 6 slst back down to where the red dot is. Finish off.

Repeat on the other side of the headband with the remaining two circles of yarn, adjusting to make sure that the headband fits.

Your Bearmuffs are all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting them and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy. Happy crocheting!

More like this:

• 20 Cutest FREE Crochet Baby Toy Patterns (for beginners!)
• 14 Quick and Easy Crochet Keychains for Bags (Stashbuster!)
• 12 Cutest Free Crochet Gnome Patterns (beginner friendly!)
• 9 Cutest Totoro Crochet Patterns (from Studio Ghibli!)
• 9 Fun Crochet Jellyfish Patterns!

The post Bearmuffs – Bear Earmuffs – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

This Teddy Bear Pocket Shawl is my newest fall-themed free crochet pattern!

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The most effortless ribbed shawl!

If you’re like me and don’t make wearables a lot, this shawl is going to be a real treat! It’s got beautifully textured ribbing created with a simple back loop only technique (nothing complicated, I promise!).

This also means that it’s completely possible to make your shawl as long as you want it!

The finishing touch to this project is a beautiful border (that I have a video tutorial for) that will make the edges smooth and even, and the cutest teddy bear pocket that you can adapt to any animal you like!

Tips for success with this pattern!

This pattern is relatively straight forward, but there are few things that you should pay attention to.

The first thing is to pay attention to the gauge. If you’re mostly an amigurumi maker, this might be a new concept. The basic gist of it is that you should pre-make a small square to the specified dimensions in the yarn and hook that you’ll be using so that you can make sure that your tension matches up with mine and your shawl won’t be dramatically longer or shorter.

If you make your gauge swatch and it ends up being larger or smaller, simply size up or down your hook until you match the size that I’ve given.

The second important thing you should pay attention to is working the border around the shawl and the pocket! I’ve got photo and video tutorials for you, but just make sure that you’re working an extra chain in each corner so that it lies flat and even.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This luxurious pocket shawl is whimsical without sacrificing its trendy look. This shawl is long enough to loop around your neck to create a cowl, and can also be worn long for warmer days. The adorable bear face on the pocket adds a sweet touch on a classic shawl!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick (super bulky)
  • (4 skeins) Peanut (light brown)
  • (<1 skein) Fisherman (white)
• Lion Brand DIYarn (worsted)
  • (1 skein) Brown

Notions

• Size M 9.0mm Clover Amour Hook
• Size G 4.0mm Clover Amour Hook
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in turned rows, unless specified otherwise. If you have trouble remembering which stitch is the first in the row, then place a stitch marker at the end of the row on both sides to help you keep track.
2. When crocheting in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

Color Coding

For this pattern, MC is Peanut, CC1 is Fisherman, and CC2 is Brown.

Gauge

• 5 HDC BLO x 7 rows = 4″ x 4″
• To create a gauge swatch, work 7 rows of HDCs BLO using a 9mm hook. Measure the square you’ve created. If it’s bigger than 4″ x 4″, try a new swatch with a smaller hook size until it’s approximately correct, and vice versa if it’s too small. By adjusting the hook size until the gauge swatch measures correctly, you’ll be able to adjust for any differences in yarn thickness or tension idiosyncrasies.

Final Size

7 and 3/4 feet long, 7.5 inches wide

SHAWL (in MC, working in turned rows. See Abbreviations section for Foundation HDC. Video tutorial for working a border around hdc rows is here.)

• Begin: Foundation hdc 134 or until 7 feet long (134 sts)
• Row 1: Beginning in the 2nd chain from the hook, hdc BLO across, chain and turn (134 sts)
• Row 2-12 (11 rows): Chain 1, working BLO, hdc across. Chain and turn. Repeat this row until the scarf measures 7″ wide. (134 sts)
• Your work should be a long rectangle with ridges from working in the BLO.
• Border: Crochet a border by working hdcs down the side of the rectangle, with 3 hdcs or every 2 rows. Click here for a tutorial on how to work an hdc border. Whenever you reach a corner, chain 1 and then continue working hdcs. At the final corner, chain 1 and slip stitch into the first stitch. Finish off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

POCKET (in MC, working in turned rows. Video tutorial for working a border around hdc rows is here. For “…” notation, see Abbreviations.)

• Row 1: Foundation hdc 13, chain and turn (13 sts)
• Row 2-9 (8 rnds): chain, hdc across, chain and turn (13 sts)
• Row 10: chain, slst 3, dc 5, slst 5, dc 5, slst 3 (2 ears and 11 slsts)
• Working off the side of the last row, chain 1 (fig. 1). Work hdcs down the side of the pocket, with 3 hdcs for every 2 rows. Click here for a tutorial on how to work the border. Whenever you reach a corner, chain 1 and then continue working hdcs. At the final corner, chain 1 and slip stitch into the first stitch. Finish off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Make another identically.

Follow the photo tutorial below for working a border around the pocket!

MUZZLE (in CC1. Click here for a video tutorial on how to embroider the nose.)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew to the front of each pocket between rows 3-6 (counting from the bottom). Using CC2, embroider a triangular nose on the muzzle. Click here for a video tutorial on how to embroider the nose (use method 2).
• Using CC2 and a 4mm hook, work 6 sc into an MR and invisible finish off, to create an eye. Make another and sew them in row 6 on top of the muzzle.

ASSEMBLY

1. Using the tail end from the pockets, seam them to the bottom of each side of the shawl using a running stitch, leaving 2 rows below them and evenly spaced sides.
2. Begin seaming on one side, work downwards, and then up the other side, leaving the side with the ears unseamed to form pockets.
3. Finish off and weave in end.
4. All done!

I hope you enjoyed making this Teddy Bear Crochet Shawl! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The post Teddy Bear Pocket Shawl Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.