I’m thrilled to share with you a delightful and easy to make ornament that will add a festive touch to just about anywhere; whether it’s hanging from a backpack, door knobs, windows, brightening up your office or classroom, or, of course, taking pride of place on your Christmas tree.

What makes this ornament truly special is how it brings joy wherever it goes. I’ve gifted these in various colors to friends, family, and colleagues, and nothing warms my heart more than seeing the smiles they bring. It’s such a small gesture, yet it holds the power to spread so much happiness.

You only need two colors of yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook to get started. It’s a simple project, but the results are absolutely charming. I must confess, I’ve made so many of these during road trips while my husband was driving. Crocheting on the go has become one of my favorite ways to pass the time!

For fun, I decided to experiment with a 2.5 mm hook, and the result was adorable, albeit a bit smaller than I’d prefer. However, my daughter absolutely adored the miniature version—it just goes to show how versatile this little project can be

Whether you make these ornaments as gifts or to decorate your own space, they’re sure to bring a festive spirit and plenty of smiles. So grab your yarn, choose your favorite colors, and enjoy creating something that’s as fun to give as it is to make. Happy crocheting!

MATERIALS

Green yarn 100% mercerized #3

Red yarn 100% mercerized #3

3.5 crochet hook

Yarn needle

Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS (US)

Ch chain

SC single crochet

HDC half double crochet

Sl St slip stitch

St(s) stitch(es)

(x sts) x total stitches in round

Rnd round

[…]x repeat stitches within brackets x times

PATTERN

Green Yarn:

Slip knot

8 Ch; join to form a ring with a sl st in the 1st ch after the knot

Red Yarn:

Cut around 6 inches of red yarn and with the help of a yarn needle pass it through the spaces as you see in the picture. At the end make a nice bow. 

The post Christmas Ornaments – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A classic teddy silhouette from across the pond!

If you’ve been here for a while, you know that I just adore teddy bears! At this point it’s probably a bit of a problem but I just keep making them!

I’ve made several bears from various fluffy yarns like Faux Fur and Alpaca, but this is my first project in boucle yarn!

I purchased this yarn on a trip to London this past fall from an adorable store called Loop in the Islington neighborhood of London. I had so much fun yarn shopping with my crochet friend Clare, and I found this amazing fuzzy boucle yarn from Woolfolk (you can see it peeking out of the bag!).

Luckily, Woolfolk has tons of stockists in the US and ships to the US so you won’t have any trouble finding the exact yarn that I used. I know that boucle yarn is sometimes hard to locate these days so I was glad to see that it’s readily available!

I also have to say that this is some of the loveliest yarn that I’ve ever worked with! The boucle curls are so soft to touch and it’s a thinner boucle yarn so that the end result looks refined and classic like an old-fashioned teddy. It’s a little on the pricey side, but it’s so worth it!

If you’re on a budget or don’t want to mess around with fiddly boucle yarn, one of my testers used Lion Brand Homespun, and while it had substantially more stitch definition, it turned out to be a good substitute in terms of weight.

Boucle Yarn for Beginners

If you’re intimidated by the thought of working with fluffy yarn, rest assured, I’ve got tons of tips and tricks to help you out.

This is a good project to start with if you’ve done one or two projects in some other novelty yarn (e.g. plush yarn, velvet, or faux fur), since the yarn weight is a bit smaller and requires more counting.

The good news is, as usual with amigurumi, only single crochets are required, so you don’t have to worry about creating fancy stitches or detailed shaping at all. Only the most basic shapes are needed—a spherical head, cylinder body, and then other features made by crocheting in a round. This means that if you mess up somehow (which happened to me multiple times), it’s not as difficult to find your way back to where you should be.

Although boucle yarn takes a little getting used to, I found a few things particularly helpful for me:

Feel for stitches, don’t look for them

It’s impossible to count stitches to see where the loops are when working with fluffy yarn, so adjust to this difference by feeling for the loops with your fingers.

If you try pinching the crochet fabric near your hook, you can identify the stitches by the places where your index finger and thumb can touch. If there’s a hole, it must be created by a single crochet stitch!

Use plenty of stitch markers

This is always important when working in the round, but if you’re using boucle yarn, it can be a life saver. However, in this case, you might want to use stitch markers more often than usual to help you count stitches, in addition to keeping track of rounds.

This way, you can keep track in a more systematic way of how many stitches you’re crocheting in a round. This is not a mandatory step, but I feel that it can be helpful for those of us who are a little neurotic about counting stitches. It can be really frustrating to not know whether you’re on the right track or not!

When I was working on Maple, I had 2 stitch markers going at all times. One was my beginning of round (BOR) marker, and the other one was for the halfway point. I would take the total number of stitches in the round and divide by two to get the number of stitches I needed to work before reaching the midpoint stitch marker.

This made it easier to spread out the stitches evenly and make sure that I didn’t have any large ripples or areas with too many increases.

If you still find that it’s hard to make it to the midpoint stitch marker with the right number of stitches, you can even use four (one for each quarter round) to make it easier on yourself. I stuck to 2 because I felt that using too many could be a little fiddly, but there’s no shame in starting slow and making sure that you don’t have to frog!

I use these stitch markers because they never fall out and have ridges to keep them securely in place!

Because it’s impossible to count stitches worked in fluffy yarn, it might be helpful to place a stitch marker every five or six stitches that you work in a round.

If all else fails, guess!

For all the difficulties that fluffy yarn comes with, it also comes with this major plus. That is, since you can’t see the stitches, no one can see your mistakes!

If you end up having trouble counting exactly how many stitches there were so far, or you know you’re off by one but can’t tell where you went wrong, don’t worry.

It happened to me, and as long as you make sure you’re in the right ballpark and approximately on track with the increases, then you should be fine.

No one will be able to tell and your Maple Bear will still be the cutest ever. Yay!

Try to avoid frogging

Boucle yarn sheds very easily when frogged. Because boucle yarn generally is made up of a soft exterior strand wound around a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces (not to mention tears). The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.

Try the chain-2 method instead of the Magic Ring

If you haven’t heard this before, the chain 2 method is another way to start a magic ring/circle.

Some people prefer it to magic circles. I like chaining 2 for fluffy yarns, but I will use magic rings for everything else because I can pull it shut.

For the chain 2 method, you will start with a slip knot on your hook then chain 2 (as the name of it implies). From there, you will crochet into the second stitch from your hook however many times that you would normally crochet into a magic ring.

It’s as simple as that! Feel free to use this method instead of a magic circle, but be warned: it will leave a small hole that you won’t be able to tighten!

If you would like a visual, click here for a YouTube tutorial. If you would rather read a blog post, you can find a post on One Dog Woof, who breaks down magic circles and chaining 2.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

Technical Notes

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This fluffy fleece teddy bear is insanely cute and a little larger than life! If you’ve never used fleece yarn before, it can be a bit tricky but also so worth it when you finish — it looks like a real teddy bear! The cherry on top is an adorable heart that makes it perfect for gifting.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Woolfolk Flette Bulky (bulky weight)
  • (1 skein/100 yards) FB11 (golden brown)
    • You can get this yarn online at woolfolkyarn.com/shop/flette-bulky-yarn/
• Hobbii Amigo (sport weight)
  • (1 skein) Christmas Red (red)

Notions

• Size F 3.75mm Clover Amour hook
• 8.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• sewing pins
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. Consider using the chain-2 method to begin your work instead of the magic ring.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
5. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Special Stitches

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial

Final Size

4″ x 9″

The Pattern

HEAD (in Golden Brown)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
  • If you’re having trouble with the magic ring, try the chain-2 method instead (for more detail, scroll up!)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Rnd 9-16 (9 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
• Rnd 17: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Rnd 18: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Rnd 19: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Measuring 2.5 inches from the top of the head, place two 8.0mm safety eyes about 1.5 inches apart (fig. 1)
• Rnd 20: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 21: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Rnd 22: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 23: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.

MUZZLE (in Golden Brown)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Then embroider a nose (see Special Stitches for a tutorial). See figure 2.
• Using a running stitch, sew the muzzle between the eyes, making sure that the top of the muzzle aligns with the top of the eyes (fig. 4). Lightly stuff as you go.

EARS (in Golden Brown, make two)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4-5 (2 rnds): sc around (18 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Do not stuff, and fold in half (see figure 3).
• Sew the ears to the top of the head, about an inch to the left and right of the center (see fig. 4).
• Your work should now look like figure 5.

LEGS (in Golden Brown, make two)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3-10 (8 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (this is leg 1). Place a blue st marker at the last st. Make another, but do not finish off (this is leg 2). Place an orange st marker in the last st. See fig. 6 (leg 1 on the left and leg 2 on the right).

Connect the legs (tutorial here): With your hook still connected to leg 2, pick up a stitch on leg 1 (immediately to the left of the blue st marker). See fig. 7 and 9. Next, work 12 scs all around leg 1 until you get to the blue st marker (see fig. 9). Then, pick up a stitch on leg 2 right next to the orange st marker (see fig. 10), and then work the remaining 11 stitches around leg 2. The two legs should now be connected with a total of 24 stitches around.

Continue to body.

BODY (in Golden Brown)

• Rnd 11-12 (2 rnds): sc around (24 sts)
• Rnd 13: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 14-16 (3 rnds): sc around (30 sts)
• Rnd 17: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 18-19 (2 rnds): sc around (24 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff. See fig. 11 for finished body. Sew the body to the head.

ARMS (in Golden Brown, make two)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 5-10 (6 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. See fig. 12 for finished arms. Sew to the left and right sides of the body. See fig. 13 for finished bear base.

SCARF (in Red)

• Begin: Chain 4 (4 sts)
• Row 1: Beginning from the second chain from the hook, work 3 sc, ch and turn (3 sts)
• Row 2: 3 hdc, ch and turn (3 sts)
• Row 3-55 (53 rows): repeat row two (3 sts) The scarf should measure around 15” long.

Work a single crochet border (fig. 14) (see tutorial here): The last stitch in row 55 is the black dot. Then, you’ll omit the last “turn” and continue working down the left side of the scarf, following the direction of the black arrow. After working scs all the way down the left side of the scarf, turn and work 3 scs across the bottom of the scarf, below row 1. Then, turn one more time and work scs all the way up the right side of the scarf, following the red arrow. You should end at the red dot. Then, finish off and weave in the ends.

Wrap the scarf around the bear.

Maple the Boucle Bear is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Maple the Boucle Bear Free Crochet Pattern – Fuzzy Teddy Bear Amigurumi appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A super detailed and low-sew mini ice skate!

This adorable tiny ice skate has enough details that it’s not for the faint of heart, but it works up surprisingly easily and the main body of the boot is entirely no sew!

I love making no sew and low sew patterns because I think it just makes for a smoother construction and assembly process. Usually, it means that structurally the amigurumi is a bit more solid as well!

For this ice skate, the sole is worked first using the foundation chain method to create an oval, and then the body of the boot is built up from it. My favorite part is when you use a neat trick to split for the tongue of the boot, which you will work before finishing the boot top.

The only other component is the blade, which is sewn on at the end, and the laces!

Low-sew projects tend to be a bit more advanced because they utilize slightly more complex crochet techniques like back loop only, so this is a great project for anyone looking to learn new skills.

A palm sized ornament, bag charm, or gift!

This miniature ice skate is simply adorable and fits into the palm of your hand! I love the small footprint (*ahem*) and coincidentally, it works great as an ornament for your Christmas tree, or a bag charm (if it’s the wrong time of year).

I have great memories of ice skating in Frog Pond in Boston with a cup of hot chocolate and I love how figure skates evoke memories of pristine snow and crisp air.

If you also love skating or have someone in your life who enjoys gliding around on ice, this is a great gift. Just insert a lobster clasp keychain to easily make it into an ornament or a bag charm!

If you want the blade to be a bit more secure you can always insert the blade around a toothpick or a piece of wire (folded in at both ends for safety).

This skate also works as a base for a hocky skate – just switch out the colors to something a little more dark and a little embroidery goes a long way!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

Technical Notes

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This adorable mini skate has a real tongue, sole, and blade and is the perfect gift for the figure skater in your life! I love this pattern because it’s such a lifelike miniature, and the best part is that it’s practically a no sew! This pattern uses clever techniques like BLO and working back and forth to create all the elements, and is suitable for an intermediate crocheter.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Brindle (medium brown)
  • (<1 skein) Silver

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: see this tutorial

Final Size

2.5″ tall x 2″ wide

Color Coding

In this pattern, the MC is white, CC1 is brown, and CC2 is silver.

The Pattern

BOOT BOTTOM (in CC1)

• Begin: Chain 10
• Round 1: Beginning in second chain from the hook, sc 6, then hdc in the next chain, then dc in the next chain, and then work 4 double crochet stitches all in the last chain. Turn the chain piece, and then work a dc in the next chain, an hdc in the next chain, and then 6 more single crochets in the remaining chains. See fig. 1 for chart, and fig. 2 for finished piece. For a tutorial on this technique, click here. (20 sts)

• Round 2: (sc, inc) x2, 2 sc, (hdc, hdc inc) x4, 2 sc, (sc, inc) x2 (28 sts)
• Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x2, 2 sc, (2 hdc, hdc inc) x4, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) x2 (36 sts)
• Switch to MC.
• Round 4: BLO, sc around (36 sts)
• Round 5-6 (2 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Round 7: 15 sc, 3 dec, 15 sc (33 sts)
• Round 8: sc around (33 sts)
• Round 9: 13 sc, 3 dec, 14 sc (30 sts)
• Round 10: 12 sc, 3 dec, 12 sc (27 sts)
• Round 11: 16 sc, then turn your work, chain 1 (see fig. 3), and work 5 sc back. Chain and turn.

TONGUE (in MC. Work in turned rows.)

Row 1-7 (7 rows): 5 sc, chain and turn (5 sts)

Your last row should be on the right side of your work, so that you are looking at the toe of the shoe (see fig. 5 for finished piece). Finish off and weave in end.

We will now work back and forth on the remaining stitches to build up the top of the boot.

BOOT TOP (in MC. Work in turned rows.)

• Row 1: Begin on the first stitch to the left of the tongue (fig. 6), and pick up scs across the remaining stitches of the boot bottom, chain and turn. (22 sts)
• Row 2: dec, 18 sc, dec, chain and turn (fig. 7). (20 sts)
• Row 3: dec, 16 sc, dec, chain and turn. (18 sts)
• Row 4: dec, 14 sc, dec, chain and turn. (16 sts)
• Row 5: 16 sc (16 sts)

You should now be on the side that is close to the right side of the tongue (the red dot in fig. 8). We will now crochet a border over the entire top of the shoe. Continue working single crochets left down the side of the boot top and then up the tongue, crocheting all around until you get back to the red dot. Finish off and weave in end.

Stuff the toe firmly, and the top of the boot lightly.

BLADE (in CC2)

• Row 1: Chain 10 (10 sts)
• Row 2: Beginning from second chain in hook, work 9 single crochets across, chain and turn (9 sts)
• Row 3: Sc across, chain and turn (9 sts)
• Row 4: Fold your work in half lengthwise, and insert your hook into the first chain from row 1 (see fig. 9). Work 2 single crochets. Then, chain 1 and sl st into the same stitch as the second sc. Work 7 more sl sts across until you reach the end of the row. Chain and turn. (9 sts)
• Row 5: Work 2 single crochets, then chain and sl st into the same stitch as the second sc. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 10). (2 sts)
• Using the beginning and end tail, sew the blade to the bottom of the boot. Only sew the top two bumps formed in rows 4 and 5 to the bottom of the boot.

Lace the shoes: Cut 8 inches of CC1. Using a tapestry needle, pull the yarn through the left and right sides of the boot, so that there is an equal length of yarn on the left and the right. Continue lacing the boot (click here for a helpful tutorial, and also see fig. 12 below). Tie a butterfly knot and trim the ends.

Fig. 12: Process of lacing the boot. Thread the CC1 yarn across the toe, right under the left and right flaps of the boot. Center the yarn. Alternate between threading the left and right ends of the yarn through the left and right flaps of the boot. I mostly followed this tutorial!

Your mini skate amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Amigurumi Mini Ice Skate Free Crochet Pattern | Low-sew! appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest low-sew lazy teddy bear with endless sweater options!

I’m in love with teddy bears, but especially low-sew teddy bears! After creating my Donut Teddy pattern, I was obsessed with the way I designed the ears to be worked in the round as part of the head. With Snuggles the Lazy Bear, I also worked the tail into the body as an adorable puff stitch.

I created this bear because I’ve been dreaming about making a cute teddy bear in a lying down posture, and this was the result! It took a while to get the perfect egg-shaped body that I wanted, but I loved how perfectly rotund it looked in the end.

I also wanted this teddy bear to be wearing a cute sweater, which I worked into the body as a series of simple color changes. (If this is new to you, scroll down for a video tutorial!)

I came up with a basic striped sweater, as well as a festive Christmas sweater variation! I love that it’s so easy to use this pattern as a blank canvas to create your own sweater. One of my testers came up with three different variations in just a few days!

The main pattern instructs you how to make the brown bear with the striped sweater, but if you want to make the Polar Bear in a Christmas Sweater variant, just follow the main pattern with a few adjustments here.

Tips for working this pattern!

This is a great pattern for advanced beginners because it’s a simple and short pattern, but the low-sew techniques you’ll learn are a great addition to your amigurumi toolbox.

One of the biggest techniques used in this pattern is changing colors, because you’ll need to do so multiple times to create either of the sweater variants. (If you dislike color changes or just don’t feel ready yet, you can always just omit the sweater and continue onwards in the main color!)

Here’s a quick video tutorial as well as a great blog post here all about changing color and my personal favorite method.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

Technical Notes

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

Snuggles the Lazy Bear is a sweet low-sew amigurumi project of a teddy bear lying down. It uses clever no- sew techniques to form the ears and tail, so you only have to do a minimal amount of seaming at the end. You can customize the color change sweater to any design or color scheme you like! The Polar Bear with Christmas Sweater variation is included in this pattern for inspiration.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Hobbii Amigo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Dark Beige (brown)
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Dusty Green (green)
  • (scrap) Sand (beige)

For Polar Bear variation, use only Hobbii Amigo White and Christmas Red.

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• embroidery needle
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• WS: wrong side
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times
• *x,y*: work x and y stitches between asterisks all in the same stitch

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down. For help with how to stuff or getting rid of holes, click here!
4. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial
• How to crochet a puff stitch: click here for tutorial.

Final Size

4″ x 3″

The Pattern

BODY (in beige. See Special Stitches for … abbreviation.)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Switch to brown.
• Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 6: sc around (24 sts)
• Rnd 7: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 8: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Rnd 9-12 (4 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Rnd 13: Begin by working 4 sc. Next, start working on the ear below.
• Ear: Working in the FLO, work dc, tr in the same st. In the next st, work 2 tr in the same st. In the next st, work tr, dc in the same st.
• Resume working through both the front and back loops. Work 5 scs.
• Work a second ear in the same method as before.
• Resume working in both the front and back loops. Work 21 remaining scs. After finishing this round, there should be unworked back loops behind the two ears (see fig. 2). There should be 42 total sts in this rnd, as well as 6 unworked back loops.

• Rnd 14: Sc around.
• When you reach the ears, work into the back loops left unworked from the previous rnd. There should be 3 unworked back loops per ear.
• After working into the unworked back loops of the ears, insert the hook into both loops of the first st after the ear and work 13 more scs in the round.
• At this point you should be at the bottom of the head, opposite the ears. This is the new beginning of round (see fig. 3). (36 sts)
• Insert two 4.0mm safety eyes between rnds 5-6, with 5 sts between the two eyes (see fig. 3). Using brown embroidery thread and an embroidery needle, embroider a T shaped nose. The top of the T should be between rnds 2-3, extending 3 sts across (fig. 4). See Special Stitches for a tutorial.

• Rnd 15: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• (For the Polar Bear variation, skip down to “POLAR BEAR” here for rnds 16-24, then come back here to finish the body.)
• For the main pattern, switch to white.
• Rnd 16: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 17: sc around (48 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 18: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 19: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 20: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 21: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 22: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 23: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 24: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to brown.
• Rnd 25-28 (4 rnds): sc around (54 sts)
• Rnd 29: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Rnd 30: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Rnd 31: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Rnd 32: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 33: work 15 single crochets. Work one puff stitch (see Special Stitches for a tutorial). See fig. 5. Then, work the remaining 14 single crochet stitches. (30 sts)
• Rnd 34: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 35: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Rnd 36: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 37: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off in the round. Your work should look like fig. 6 and 7.

ARMS (in brown, make two)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts) Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 6: sc around (12 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 7: sc around (12 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 8: sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Fold the arm flat and insert the hook through both sides of the opening (fig. 8). Slip stitch 6 sts across to seam the arm shut. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Your arm should now look like figure 8. Make another identically.

LEGS (in brown, make two)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 6-8 (3 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Fold the leg flat and slip stitch 6 sts across to seam shut, in the same way as the arms. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. You should now have 2 arms and 2 legs (fig. 10).

ASSEMBLY

Sew the two arms to the body at round 16. The arms should be sewn vertically to the body, with the top of each arm about 4 stitches below the left and right ears. See figures 10 and 11 for placement.

Sew the two legs to the body between rnds 26-27. The legs should be sewn vertically to the body, with the top of each leg roughly aligned with the arm. See figures 10 and 11 for placement.

Polar Bear with Christmas Sweater Variation

To make the polar bear version of this pattern, follow the main pattern using the alterations below:

HEAD: Make head using white yarn only, do not color change for the muzzle.

BODY (continue in white, see fig. 14 for colorwork chart)

• After rnd 15, switch to red.
• Rnd 16: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Switch to white.
  Rnd 17: sc around (48 sts)
• Switch to red.
  Rnd 18: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
  
• Rnd 19: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to red.
  
• Rnd 20-22 (3 rnds): sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
  
• Rnd 23: sc around (54 sts)
  
• Switch to red.
  
• Rnd 24: sc around (54 sts)
  
• Switch to white. Continue with the remainder of the pattern.
• After finishing the body, use white yarn to embroider 6 point stars (you can follow this embroidery tutorial). The stars should be about 2 stitches wide with 3 stitches between each star.

ARMS (in white)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Switch to red.
• Rnd 6-8 (3 rnds): sc around
• Stuff lightly. Fold the arm flat and slip stitch 6 sts across to seam the arms shut.

LEGS: Make legs using white yarn.

See fig. 15 for finished project.

The post Snuggles the Lazy Bear – Crochet Bear – Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The latest in an evolution of bunnies

Bunnies are some of my favorite projects to make ever, as evidenced by my huge portfolio of them!

The first pattern I ever designed was a bunny (yes you can find it on the blog but I wouldn’t 100% recommend it….) and I’ve made a bunch more since.

My idea for this pattern was for a simple and sweet minimalist bunny pattern with an adorable tiny heart to go along with her.

I think Yuki turned out so great, and she uses the same body plan as my Bunana and Strawbeary patterns, so you can make all of them as a set!

Tips for making this pattern!

This amigurumi includes many sewing steps for small pieces. I’ve created an entire guide here on how to sew amigurumi parts together, and highly recommend referring to it throughout.

The legs of this bunny include a technique that asks you to crochet around a foundation chain. This is a technique that I love, since it results in a slightly oval shape, but can be tricky for first timers. I have an in depth photo tutorial here that walks you through the whole process!

The heart that this bunny is holding is by far the hardest part, and for those of you who are visual learners, I actually have an entire video tutorial just for that segment:

Hopefully with these tips this pattern will feel less daunting!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This mini bunny pattern is simply so sweet. The tiny heart makes her a perfect gift for Valentine’s Day or any other holiday. There are a few new techniques — but don’t worry, I’ve got you covered with linked tutorials all the way!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Hobbii Amigo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) White (light brown)
  • (<1 skein) Delicate Rose (pink)

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi. See my post here for how to stuff amigurumi!
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
5. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them. Click here for a photo tutorial on how to sew amigurumi.

More free crochet doll patterns:

• Carmen the Mini Doll (a flamboyant dancer!)
• Kitsune the Fox Doll
• Jacqueline the Cellist Mini Doll
• The Little Prince
• The Sugar Plum Fairy (one of my favorites!)
• Juliet the Mini Doll

Color Coding

In this pattern, the MC is white and CC1 is pink.

Final Size

5″ x 2″

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-9 (2 rnds): sc around (42 sts) Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 11-12 (2 rnds): sc around (48 sts) Round 13: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 14: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13 (counting from top), 12 sts apart (fig. 1).
• Round 15: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 16: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 17: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 20: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 21: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end (fig. 1).

Embroider the face: Using 3 threads of black embroidery floss, embroider an “x” directly between the two eyes. Using 6 threads of pink embroidery floss, embroider two small lines extending from the middle of the bottom of the eyes to just behind them (fig. 1).

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6-10 (5 rnds): sc around (30 sts) Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts) Round 12: sc around (24 sts)
• Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff. Invisible finish off (video tutorial here), leaving a tail for sewing, and sew to the head (fig. 5).

LEG (in MC, make two)

• Begin: Chain 4. Beginning in the 2nd chain from hook, work 6 single crochets around the foundation chain (tutorial here). (6 sts)
• Round 1: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 2-4 (3 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly.
• Round 5: (sc, dec) x4 (8 sts)
• Make another identically. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing, and sew between rounds 5-8 of the body (counting from the bottom), 5 stitches apart (fig. 5).

More like this:

• How to Design Amigurumi in 7 Steps
• Make Real Money Selling Crochet at Craft Fairs
• How to Crochet Basic Shapes for Amigurumi (+ sculptural crochet!)
• How to Sell Crochet Patterns (With a PDF Template)
• 9 Lessons I Learned Starting a Crochet Business (+ my tips!)
• Can you make money crocheting? (How I did it!)

ARM (in MC, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly.
• Round 5: (2 sc, dec) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 6-7 (2 rnds): sc around (9 sts)
• Insert hook through both loops of both sides and sc 4 across to close the opening (fig. 4). (4 sts)
• Make another identically. Do not stuff or stuff very lightly. Finish off, and sew sideways from rnds 1-4 of the body (counting from the top of the body) (fig. 5).

EARS (in MC, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x2 (10 sts)
• Round 4-9 (6 rnds): sc around (10 sts)
• Round 10: (3 sc, dec) x2 (8 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail. Fold the ear lengthwise and sew across the base (fig. 6) several times. Sew to the top of the head, between rnds 2-3 (fig. 7). Make another identically.

TOP HALVES OF HEART (in CC1, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (9 sts)
• Finish off, and make another identically but do not finish off.

Connect the halves (video here): Place them together with the opening facing up (fig. 8). Using one of the tails, seam together two stitches from each half (video here), as shown at the red line. After seaming them together, sc around all the other stitches, skipping the ones that you seamed together. (14 sts)

Continue to bottom half.

BOTTOM HALF OF HEART (in CC1)

• Round 5: (5 sc, dec) x2 (12 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10 sts)
• Round 7: (3 sc, dec) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 8: dec x4 (4 sts)
• Finish off and bury the tail in the back so that the bottom of the heart is seamless (fig. 9). Using the tail, sew it to the body of the bunny between the arms.

Yuki the Snow Bunny is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The post Yuki the Snow Bunny Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A festive crochet teddy bear for the holidays!

Teddy bears are my absolute favorite type of amigurumi to make, and for a fun holiday twist I made this present bear! I think it’s so cute how the bear is stuck in the present!

If you’ve seen my pumpkin bear in the past, this is a similar concept and I feel like it’s an awesome way to get you in the mood for the holidays.

This pattern is relatively straight forward and not that much more difficult than making a regular teddy bear, since you just swap the body out for the present.

You’ll learn how to make right angle corners for the present box in this pattern, as well as learn a clever back loop only technique to make the edges of the box more defined.

It’s really fun exploring new techniques in amigurumi and this is a great pattern to pick up new techniques from!

Tips for success with this pattern!

This is a confident beginner pattern because it uses several techniques like working into a foundation chain for the legs, working back and forth for the bow, and BLO techniques for the box.

If you’ve already made a few amigurumi, you should be fully equipped to tackle this pattern, since most of the new techniques just build off the ones you know already.

For this pattern, there are a lot of small pieces, so it’s important to pay attention to where each of the pieces go. I always note the exact positioning of each piece, but you can also pin them down to the other pieces to help you visualize what the final product will look like.

Don’t be afraid to move things around if there’s a specific look that you like better!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This Present Bear is an adorable amigurumi of a teddy bear sitting with her head and limbs sticking out of a gift box, complete with a ribbon. Although this pattern might look complicated, it’s actually very straightforward—if you can make a ball, then you can make this pattern! She is perfect decor for the gift giving season or Valentine’s Day!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Blush (light pink)
  • (<1 skein) Coral (red)
  • (<1 skein) White

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

2. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is camo green, CC1 is light brown, CC2 is gold, and CC3 is red.

Special Stitches

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial
• Invisible finish off: Click here for a video tutorial!

Final Size

2.5″ (6cm) x 3.5″ (9cm)

BOX (in CC1, see Color Coding section. For … notation, see Abbreviations section.)

• Round 1: 4 sc in MR (4 sts)
• Round 2: 3 sc x4 (12 sts)
• Round 3: sc, (3 sc, 2 sc) x3, 3 sc, 1 sc (20 sts)
• Round 4: 2 sc, (3 sc, 4 sc) x3, 3 sc, 2 sc (28 sts)
• Round 5: 3 sc, (3 sc, 6 sc) x3, 3 sc, 3 sc (36 sts)
• Round 6: 4 sc, (3 sc, 8 sc) x3, 3 sc, 4 sc (44 sts)
• Round 7: 5 sc, (3 sc, 10 sc) x3, 3 sc, 5 sc. Sl st to first stitch. (52 sts)
• Begin working in joined rounds.
• Round 8: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), and working in BLO, sc around. Sl st to first stitch (52 sts)
• Round 9-15 (7 rnds): ch, sc around, sl st to first stitch (52 sts)
• At this point, make sure that the beginning of your round is approximately in the middle of the side of the square. If it’s a little off, adjust for it before continuing.
• Round 16: in BLO, 5 sc, (sc3tog, 10 sc) x3, sc3tog, 5 sc (44 sts)
• Work in continuous rounds.
• Round 17: 4 sc, (sc3tog, 8 sc) x3, sc3tog, 4 sc (36 sts)
• Round 18: 3 sc, (sc3tog, 6 sc) x3, sc3tog, 3 sc (28 sts)
• Round 19: 2 sc, (sc3tog, 4 sc) x3, sc3tog, 2 sc (20 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 20: sc, (sc3tog, 2 sc) x3, sc3tog, sc (12 sts)

Finish off, leaving a long end for sewing.

Using a tapestry needle, thread the needle through the front loop only of each of the 12 stitches in the last round.

Pull tight to cinch the opening closed, and bury the tail. You have just completed the bottom of the box.

See figure 1 and 2 for what your work should look like.

RIBBONS (in CC2, make two. See Abbreviations for FSC.)

• Round 1: FSC 32, slst to first stitch (32 sts)
• Leave a tail for sewing and make another identically.

You should now have two loops made of chains. Place them on the box as shown in figure 3 and sew them down.

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-9 (2 rnds): sc around (42 sts)
• Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 11-12 (2 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
• Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12 (counting from top), 6 sts apart.
• Round 13: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 14: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 15: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 16: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 17: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts) Stuff.
• Round 20: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 21: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. See figure 4.

MUZZLE (in CC2)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)

Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Using brown embroidery thread, embroider a nose.

See Special Stitches for tutorial. See figure 5 for finished muzzle

Sew to the head between rounds 10-15 (counting from the top). The top of the muzzle should be at the level of the eyes.

EARS (in MC, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (12 sts)

Flatten the ear in half so that you have two layered semi circle shape.

Insert hook through both loops of both sides and sc 6 across to close the opening (6 sts).

See figure 6.

Make another identically. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing, and sew to the head between rounds 4-7 (counting from the top).

Curve the ear slightly when sewing.

The ears should be placed 6-8 stitches to the left and right of the eyes, and 4 rows up. See fig. 10 for reference.

LEGS (in MC, make two)

• Begin: Chain 4. Beginning in the 2nd chain from hook, work 6 single crochets around the foundation chain. For a tutorial on this, click here. See figure 7 for visual representation. (6 sts)
• Round 1: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 2-4 (3 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly.
• Round 5: (sc, dec) x4 (8 sts)

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically (fig. 8).

Sew between rounds 9-12 of the box (counting from the bottom), starting 3 stitches to the left and right of one corner.

See fig. 10 for reference.

ARM (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Round 5: (2 sc, dec) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 6-7 (2 rnds): sc around (9 sts)

Insert hook through both loops of both sides and sc 4 across to close the opening (4 sts).

See fig. 9 and 10 for step by step photos.

Make another identically. Do not stuff or stuff very lightly.

Finish off, and sew on top of the present, overlapping with the ribbon (fig. 13). Sew the head on top.

BOW (in CC2. See Abbreviations for FSC.)

• Row 1: FSC 3, chain and turn
• Row 2-7 (6 rows): 3 sc, chain and turn
• You have now made a rectangle.

To crochet a border around it, turn your work (see fig. 11 for starting point) and work 7 stitches down the left side of the rectangle.

Work 3 stitches on the bottom, and then 7 stitches up the right side, 3 stitches on top, and slip stitch to the first stitch.

Finish off, leaving a tail.

Fold the rectangle in half lengthwise, and then use the tail to sew across the middle (see fig. 12 for visual), leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew in front of the right ear of the head. (fig. 13)

Your starfish amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Present Bear Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Papaya the Christmas Penguin is a confident beginner pattern, and each segment will take no more than a few hours, so you will have plenty of time throughout the week to work on it as well as ask any questions that you might have.

Each week, I will provide written instructions as well as video tutorials specifically geared towards beginners, so as long as you can make a ball, you will be able to make this pattern! No matter your favorite learning method, I will have resources available to support you.

I’m also running a giveaway at the end of the month to thank all of you for participating! You just have to post your finished creation in the Facebook group or on Instagram with the hashtag #FrostyAmiCAL and you will be automatically entered to win a bundle of goodies from Clover USA as well as a free pattern of your choice from me.

How do I participate?

This CAL will be a structured event, with a segment of the pattern released every week on my blog (click here for part one, two, three and four). It will officially begin on November 4th with the first part of the pattern, but once each segment is released you will always be able to access it, so don’t worry if you miss a week or start late. Scroll down for the pattern release schedule — it’s a good idea to bookmark this page for later so you can always check back!

The main hub for the CAL will be the Little World of Whimsy Facebook Group where those who use my patterns can share and help each other. In this Facebook group, you’ll be able to post updates and WIP shots of your projects, ask questions, and cheer for the other makers participating. It’s a great place to house the CAL because everyone can post, comment, and share in one place. On Instagram, you can use and follow the hashtag #FrostyAmiCAL to post your updates and search for others doing the same. Throughout the month of November I’ll be offering support when I can in the Facebook group and commenting on your photos on Instagram.

Where can I get a printable copy of the pattern?

This pattern will be viewable on my blog as it is released, for free. If you wish to print out the pattern, printable versions can be purchased for a small fee from my Etsy shop here, and you can access the entire pattern now!

How do I share my amigurumi project?

One of my absolute favorite parts of hosting a crochet along is seeing all of your projects and the different ways that you customize them. Share your projects with me on social media by tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy or using the hashtag #FrostyAmiCAL in your posts. You can also join The Little World of Whimsy Crochet Community on Facebook and share your projects there, chat with other participants and see their work as well.

Tutorials that will help you be ready for the CAL:

• How to crochet around a foundation chain
• Single crochet
• How to use safety eyes
• Invisible decrease
• How to stuff amigurumi tutorial
• Finishing off tutorial
• How to sew amigurumi parts together tutorial

What materials do I need to get ready?

I’m glad you asked! Here’s the full list of materials that you’ll need. I’ll link to the exact yarn that I used, as well as some substitutes that I think would work well. If you ever want more details or personal recommendations of my favorite supplies, check out my recommended supplies list here — it has all the information you could ever want!

Yarn

• (1 skein each) Hobbii Amigo Yarn (Sport Weight) in Delicate Rose, White, Egg Yolk, and Christmas Red
  • I ordered this yarn from hobbii.com, and it is an extremely inexpensive acrylic yarn that arrives fairly quickly from Denmark, where the company is based.
  • Using this yarn, my finished product was 4 inches tall
• Sub #1: (1 skein each) WeCrochet Brava Sport (Sport Weight) in Blush, White, Canary, and Red
  • This yarn is from WeCrochet, my favorite online yarn shop based in the US. This yarn can be ordered online for a fairly inexpensive price as well。
  • Although this yarn is labeled sport weight, it runs closer to a worsted weight, so your finished product will be slightly larger than my sample.
• If you prefer not to order online or to be able to see your yarn in person, feel free to go to your local Michael’s, Joann’s, Hobby Lobby, Daiso etc. and pick out four skeins of yarn in pink, white, dark yellow, and red.

Crochet Hook

• We’ll be using a 3.25mm hook (my favorite hook is the Clover Amour, but you can use whatever works best for you)
• If you’re using a different weight of yarn than the one I’m using, always remember to size down your hook 1.0mm from what the yarn label says to avoid gaps (read my blog post here about choosing crochet hooks)!

Notions

• 6.0mm safety eyes
• Tapestry needle for sewing
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Polyester fiberfill
• (optional) sewing pins to help secure everything

Pattern Release Schedule

Week 1: Body

Week 2: Flippers and Belly

Week 3: Beak and accessories

Week 4: Putting it all together

FAQs

What is a CAL and why participate?

A “crochet along,” aka CAL, is virtual eventwhere a group of people all work on the same project together, sharing their progress along the way while encouraging and supporting each other.

I chose to do this CAL to create a space and time for everyone to connect over the same project as a way of fostering community. I love that the Little World of Whimsy Facebook group has become a place for everyone to share and support each other when working on Little World of Whimsy projects. It’s really hard (er, impossible) for me to be able to offer one-on-one help to everyone who needs it, so I started that group as a way for you all to help each other so you’d still feel supported. I figured I could amplify that by hosting a CAL since everyone could work together on the same things and help and encourage each other.

How do I sign up?

There’s nowhere to officially sign up for this CAL, you can just participate as each section of the pattern drops and pop into the Facebook group or browse the IG hashtag (#FrostyAmiCAL) as you wish as we work on this project together over the course of the month.

Is this pattern beginner friendly? What if I need help?

This pattern is a confident beginner pattern. While I have had some complete beginners complete these projects, you will need some foundational amigurumi skills.

If you have trouble with any particular step, you can reach out to me personally by tagging me on FB or IG at @LittleWorldofWhimsy, but also every technique used in these patterns is just a Youtube or Google search away if you’re not familiar with them. The great thing about participating in a CAL is that there will be many others working on the same project at the same time, so if you run into trouble you can reach out to the group in the Facebook group and ask for help and clarification. If you’ve worked out a tricky bit and see someone else struggling with the same issue, pay it forward and explain how you solved it. I will also be popping into the Facebook group throughout the month to offer support.

If you have more FAQs, ask me at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com or on Facebook and I will update this list as I go!

The post Papaya the Christmas Penguin CAL! appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

Crochet garments that don’t take forever!

When I first learned how to crochet, I was drawn to the craft because of amigurumi (no surprise there!). However, as I immersed myself in the yarn community, I discovered so many amazing garment designers and patterns and really wanted to try some out for myself!

After attempting my first crochet sweater, I absolutely loved how the designer was able to create ribbing details that I normally associated with knitting, and so when it came time to design some crochet ornaments, a mini sweater was a no brainer.

Fun fact: this tiny pattern has the exact same construction as a life sized sweater, so if you really wanted to, you could definitely scale it up and wear it!

Along with the tiny sweater, I created a mini stocking which is just a little too small to stuff with any toys, but is perfect for hanging on a tree or on a keychain. The best part? These ornaments only take a few hours, and you could even string up a bunch of them into the most adorable crochet bunting!

Mix, match, and customize!

I opted for a classic striped combination for my mini sweater, but you can create any kind of sweater (not necessarily Christmas-themed) you want! This also makes this sweater an amazing stash buster for any tiny scraps you have left over (mini scrap sweater, anyone?) and also a super easy place to try out any new color schemes you’ve been mulling over.

You could also go classic and create a simple solid colored sweater with contrast colored ribbing, and add a mini appliqué in the center.

Since these ornaments are so quick to make, you can definitely create a custom piece for everyone in your family, and even attempt to make a mini version of everyone’s favorite sweater!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Crochet a mini sweater and stocking for your Christmas tree this year! These adorable miniature ornaments can be strung together into a bunting, made into hanging ornaments, or become tiny stocking stuffers themselves! Each one works up extremely quickly and is the perfect easy Christmas project during this hectic season.

Yarn

• Hobbii Tivoli
  • <1 skein of Red (sport weight)
  • <1 skein of White (sport weight)

Notions

• Size C (2.5 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Abbreviations (US)

• ch: chain
• MR: magic ring
• sc: single crochet
• sc x: sc x number of times
• dec: decrease
• inc: increase
• slst: slip stitch
• MC: main color
• CC: contrast color
• yo: yarn over
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• rep: repeat
• sts: stitch(es)
• (x sts): x total stitches in round/row
• rnd: round
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• FO: finish off
• sk: skip one stitch
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• (…) x: repeat stitches within brackets x times
• *…*: work stitches within asterisks all in the same stitch

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• This pattern will be worked in a main color (MC) and contrast color (CC). In the sample shown, I used red as my MC and white as my CC.

Final Size

• Sweater: 4″ x 3″
• Stocking: 1.75″ x 1″

SWEATER (in MC, then switch to CC, sport weight yarn. The ribbing is worked in turned rows, and the striping is worked in joined rounds. Do not cut the yarn between color changes and simply let it hang when working on alternate rounds.)

• Begin Starting with MC, we will work in short turned rows to create a long strip, and then sew the strip together at the ends to create a circle.
• Row 1 FSC 3, chain and turn (3 sts)
• Row 2-12 (11 rnds) BLO, hdc 3, ch and turn (3 sts)
• Seam the edges closed with a tapestry needle, or you can slipstitch the ends together. Fasten off and weave in the end. You should have a tiny ribbed circle. From any point in the circle, attach MC yarn.
• Round 1 Chain 1 and pick up 24 hdc all around (2 hdcs per horizontal hdc). Slipstitch into the first hdc. (24 sts)
• Switch to CC.
• Round 2 Chain 1, hdc inc x24, slst (48 sts)
• Round 3 Chain 1, hdc all around, slst (48 sts)
• Switch to MC. We will now create the arm holes.
• Round 4 Chain 1, hdc 8, sk 8, hdc 16, sk 8, hdc 8, slst (32 sts)
• Round 5 Chain 1, hdc all around, slst (32 sts)
• Switch to CC.
• Round 6-7 (2 rnds) Chain 1, hdc all around, slst (32 sts)
• Repeat rounds 5 and 6 with MC, then one more time with CC. Switch back to the MC for the bottom ribbing.
• Ribbing: (video tutorial here) Chain 4 off the side of the last round. Hdc 3, beginning from the second chain from the hook. (Working to the left of the hook, slip stitch 3 times. Then, reorient yourself so that you can work into the back loops of the hdcs you just made. BLO, hdc 3 into those three stitches. Chain 1 and turn, and BLO, hdc across.) Repeat until you reach the first stitch, and slip stitch into the top chain of the first stitch. (12 rows total)

SLEEVES

• Begin Using MC, and beginning from the bottom of the arm hole, chain 1, and pick up 12 hdcs all around, and slip stitch to the first hdc (12 sts)
• Round 2 Chain 1, and hdc all around, slst (12 sts)
• Switch to CC and repeat round 2 twice.
• Ribbing: (video tutorial here) Chain 4 off the side of the last round. Hdc 3, beginning from the second chain from the hook. (Working to the left of the hook, slip stitch 3 times. Then, reorient yourself so that you can work into the back loops of the hdcs you just made. BLO, hdc 3 into those three stitches. Chain 1 and turn, and BLO, hdc across.) Repeat until you reach the first stitch, and slip stitch into the top chain of the first stitch.
• Finish off and repeat on the other sleeve. Weave in all the ends on the sweater. Add a loop of yarn to the top to create an ornament!

STOCKING (in CC, then switch to MC, sport weight yarn. Do not cut the yarn between color changes and simply let it hang when working on alternate rounds.)

• Begin Start with CC, working in the round.
• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 sc all around (12 sts)
• Switch to MC.
• Round 4 sc all around (12 sts)
• Round 5 (sc2, inc) x4 (16 sts)
• Round 6 sc5, switch to CC, sc, hdc, dc2, hdc, sc, switch to MC, sc5 (16 sts)
• Round 7 sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 8 (sc2, dec) x4 (12 sts)
• Round 9 sc all around (12 sts)
• Switch to CC yarn.
• Round 10-12 (3 rnds) sc all around (12 sts)
• Finish off and fold flat. Sew a loop of yarn at the back of the stocking.

Your [pattern name] is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished project, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy. Once again, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me with a direct message on Instagram or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com. Happy crocheting!

If you want to make more crochet minis, check out these patterns:

• Cinnamon the Mini Bear
• Sugar the Mini Bunny

The post Mini Sweater and Stocking Ornaments Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

From the ballet stage to your hands

As a long time cellist and lover of classical music, I absolutely adore Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker. The orchestra score is beautiful, but I also love the association between the most iconic scenes and Christmas. The Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy is probably the most famous melody from The Nutcracker, and the accompanying dance is gravity defying, whimsical, and magical.

With Christmas time rapidly approaching, I wanted to try to make my own amigurumi rendition of this beautiful figure. The most important elements to me were the Sugar Plum Fairy’s elegant, poufy dress, as well as the small silver crown that she wears.

The perfect doll base

I’ve made several dolls in the past, including a cute princess doll over the summer, but I haven’t been quite satisfied with the resulting doll body. I wanted tight stitches that would create a dense fabric without any gaps, but previously I used an extremely small hook that made my hands ache after working for a while.

This time, I sized my hook up and used the x stitch to create the small x’s instead of v’s that you see on the surface of the crochet fabric. The x stitch results in slightly tighter stitches and looks a little neater, which resulted in the perfect combination. My final product also resulted in slight detailing for the hands as well as a subtle oval shape to the head, which I felt added to the polish of this revision.

I love that this doll only uses the most basic stitches, so that it’s approachable even for beginners. If you’ve ever made an animal amigurumi, then you can make this doll! The Sugar Plum Fairy’s gorgeous dress is made up of a series of shell stitches to create the elegant and sophisticated eyelets and scalloped edge.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Sugar Plum Fairy

This Sugar Plum Fairy doll is an adorable and elegant homage to Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker ballet. Her delicate dress and tiny crown are a nod to the graceful and regal dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy in the iconic ballet. This project can be made with the most basic crochet stitches — all that’s needed is a little extra patience!

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (Sport Weight)
  • Color: Almond (<1 skein)
  • Color: Cream (<1 skein)
  • Color: Blush (<1 skein)

• Drops Air (Worsted Weight)
  • Color: Light Pink (<1 skein)

• Lion Brand Yarn Baby Soft (Sport Weight)
  • Color: White (<1 skein)

• Red Heart Croquette (Fingering)
  • Color: Calming (<1 skein)

Notions

• Size D (3.25 mm) Clover Amour Hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers

Abbreviations (US)

• MR: Magic ring
• Sc: Single crochet
• Sc x: sc x number of times
• Ch: Chain
• Sl st: Slip stitch
• Rnd: round
• Yo: Yarn over
• Hdc: Half double crochet
• Dc: Double crochet
• Inc: Increase
• Dec: Decrease
• Sts: Stitches
• FO: Fasten off
• (x sts): x total stitches in round/row
• (…) x: repeat stitches within parentheses x times
• *…*: work stitches within asterisks all in the same stitch
• Sk: skip one stitch
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)

Special Stitches

Shell stitch: For this pattern, the shell stitch is as follows: (*hdc2, ch, hdc2*, skip the number of stitches specified).

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

Final Size

6″ x 2″

Pattern

LEGS (in any skin color sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3-11 (9 rnds) sc all around (8 sts)
• Stuff lightly, using the back of a crochet hook or chopstick to push the stuffing down. Finish off the first leg and then create a second leg identically, but do not finish off the second leg. Continue to body.

BODY (in any skin color sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook)

• Round 12 sc all around both legs (16 sts)
• Round 13-20 (8 rnds) sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 21 (sc6, dec) x2 (14 sts)
• Round 22 sc all around (14 sts)
• Round 23 (sc5, dec) x2 (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

HEAD (in any skin color sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7 (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-16 (9 rnds) sc all around (42 sts)
• Place 6.0 mm safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, 8 stitches apart.
• Round 17 (sc5, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 18 (sc4, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 19 (sc3, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 20 (sc2, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 21 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 22 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end. Using the tail from the body, sew the head and body together.

ARMS (in any skin color sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook)

Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
Round 2 (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
Round 3 sc all around (8 sts)
Round 4 (sc2, dec) x2 (6 sts)
Round 5-9 (5 rnds) sc all around (6 sts)
Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a short tail. Sew to the left and right sides of the seam between the head and body.

DRESS (in pink worsted weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, worked in turned rows until row 6, then in joined rounds)

• Row 1 FSC14, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 2 sc, hdc, dc2, hdc, sc4, hdc, dc2, hdc, sc, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 3 inc, dc inc, sk3, dc inc, sc2, dc inc, sk3, dc inc, inc, chain and turn (14 sts)
• Row 4 (sc6, inc) x2, chain and turn (16 sts)
• Row 5 (sc7, inc) x2, chain and turn (18 sts)
• Row 6 (sc8, inc) x2, chain (20 sts)
• Slip stitch into the first stitch to join your work into a round. We will now work in joined rounds of shell stitches (refer to special stitches section). In this pattern, … means to work everything within the asterisks in the same stitch.
• Round 7 *ch (counts as hdc), hdc, ch, hdc2*, sk, (*hdc2, ch, hdc2*) x9, slst into the first chain (10 shell stitches)
• Round 8-10 (3 rnds) slip stitch two more times until you’re working in the chain space of the first shell stitch. *ch (counts as hdc), hdc, ch, hdc2*, (skip the next 4 hdcs and work in the next chain space *hdc2, ch, hdc2*) x9, slst into the first chain (10 shell stitches)
• Add another round if you wish. Invisible finish off bottom of dress and weave in ends.

SLEEVES (in pink worsted weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 Attach yarn to bottom stitch in sleeve hole, and ch (does not count as a stitch), sc 7 all around the hole, slst (7 sts)
• Round 2 ch, hdc, (hdc2, hdc inc) x2, slst (9 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (hdc2, hdc inc) x3, slst (12 sts)
• Invisible finish off and weave in ends. Slide the dress on the doll (it may need a little tugging) and seam the back closed. The dress will not be removable after this stage.

SLIPPERS (in pink worsted weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
Round 2 ch, inc x6, slst (12 sts)
Round 3-5 (3 rnds) ch, sc all around, slst (12 sts)
Invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Sew the slippers to the bottom of the legs. Cut short pieces of white yarn and tie them around the center stitch in the top round.

HAIR (in light brown sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
• Round 2 ch, inc x6, slst (12 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (sc, inc) x6, slst (18 sts)
• Round 4 ch, (sc2, inc) x6, slst (24 sts)
• Round 5 ch, (sc3, inc) x6, slst (30 sts)
• Round 6 ch, (sc4, inc) x6, slst (36 sts)
• Round 7 ch, (sc5, inc) x6, slst (42 sts)
• Round 8-11 (4 rnds) ch, sc all around, slst (42 sts)
• Round 12 ch2, dc19, hdc, slst, hdc, dc20, slst (42 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Position the hair piece on the head off center so that the back of the hair falls three rounds away from the body/dress, and orient the part slightly to the left. Sew hair piece to the head.

BUN (in light brown sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
• Round 2 ch, inc x6, slst (12 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (sc, inc) x6, slst (18 sts)
• Round 4 ch, (sc2, inc) x6, slst (24 sts)
• Round 5-8 (4 rnds) ch, sc all around, slst (24 sts) Round 9 ch, (sc4, dec) x4, slst (20 sts)
• Stuff firmly. Finish off and sew to the back of the hair.

CHEEKS (in pink sport weight yarn and 3.25 mm hook, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 Sc6 in MR, slst into first stitch
• Invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Sew beneath and to the right/left of the eyes. Sew a nose two stitches wide directly between the eyes using two or three stitches of the same skin colored yarn that you used for the head.

CROWN (using a 2.0 mm hook and fingering weight silver yarn, in joined rounds)

• Round 1 sc12 in MR, slst (12 sts)
• Round 2 ch, sc all around, slst (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, ch3, slst in 2nd chain from hook, sc in 3rd chain from hook, sc in next stitch) x6, slst (12 sts and 6 spikes)
• Finish off and sew to top of head, around 4 rounds away from the bangs.

I hope you enjoyed making this Sugar Plum Fairy doll! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The post Sugar Plum Fairy Free Crochet Doll Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest, chubbiest, alpaca!

Since becoming more immersed in the fiber arts community online, I noticed that alpacas were a very popular animal! I had never considered alpacas or llamas to be particularly cute before, but after seeing so many iterations of these chubby creatures I was swayed and decided that I had to make my own.

My design is an alpaca sitting up, with a chubby body and stubby arms and legs. Since alpacas have famously long necks, I decided to go with a bowling pin shaped body, with the head and body all made in one piece (minimal sewing, hooray!). All of his extra features are quick to make and add an extra cuteness factor.

Fun fact: Carl’s name is inspired by the popular video series Llamas Wearing Hats, since he’s an alpaca…wearing a hat!

Other amigurumi beginner tutorials:

• How to Stuff Amigurumi the Right Way (no holes or lumps!)
• How to Change Colors in Amigurumi (easy photo tutorial!)
• How to Crochet an Oval around a Foundation Chain (easy!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

Cute accessories for the holiday season

Since the holiday season is coming up, I decided that I would be remiss if I didn’t at least give Carl a minimalistic Santa outfit. His tiny Santa hat is complete with a pompom which can either be crocheted or just made with yarn, though I love the sleek and neat effect that the crocheted version makes!

Additionally, Carl has a mini scarf to keep his neck warm, which I chose to be in a matching color to his dark red hat. These Christmas themed accessories are great if you want to make Carl as home decor or a Christmas ornament, but you could also change up the colors to make him an all year round plushie!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Carl the Alpaca is an adorable Christmas-themed amigurumi perfect for holiday home decor or as a stocking stuffer. He’s quick an easy to make, with his body all in one piece and a few fun accessories that you can customize to your liking. You can make this amigurumi over a weekend, perfect as a last minute gift!

Yarn

• Wool and the Gang
  • <1 skein of Beige Blonde (light brown) (sport weight)
• Hobbii Tivoli
  • <1 skein of Green (sport weight)
  • <1 skein of White (sport weight)
  • <1 skein of Red (sport weight)

Notions

• Size C (2.5 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 4.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• MR: Magic ring
• Sc: Single crochet
• Ch: Chain
• Sl st: Slip stitch
• Yo: Yarn over
• Hdc: Half double crochet
• Dc: Double crochet
• Inc: Increase
• Dec: Decrease
• Sts: Stitches
• FO: Fasten off
• (…) x: repeat stitches within parentheses x times
• Sk: skip one stitch
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

Final Size

6″ x 3″

Body (beige sport weight yarn)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7 (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8 (sc6, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9 (sc7, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 10-19 (10 rnds) sc all around (54 sts)
• Round 20 (sc7, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 21 (sc6, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 22 (sc5, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 23-25 (3 rnds) sc all around (36 sts)
• Round 26 (sc4, dec) (30 sts)
• Round 27-29 (3 rnds) sc all around (30 sts)
• Round 30 (sc3, dec) (24 sts)
• Round 31 (sc2, dec) (18 sts)
• Round 32 sc all around (18 sts)
• Round 33 (sc2, inc) x6 (24)
• Round 34 (sc3, inc) x6 (30)
• Round 35 (sc4, inc) x6 (36)
• Round 36 (sc5, inc) x6 (42)
• Round 37-44 (8 rnds) sc all around (42)
• Insert 5.0mm safety eyes between rounds 39 and 40, 5 stitches apart.
• Round 45 (sc5, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 46 (sc4, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 47 (sc3, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Begin stuffing.
• Round 48 (sc2, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 49 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Finish stuffing.
• Round 50 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off.

Muzzle (in white sport weight yarn)

• Begin chain 5, and sc8 all around beginning in the second chain from the hook. For more information on how to crochet around a foundation chain, click here. (8 sts)
• Round 1 inc x8 (16 sts)
• Round 2-3 (2 rnds) sc all around (16 sts)
• Invisible finish off. Stuff lightly.

Ears (in white sport weight yarn)

• Round 1 sc4 in MR (4 sts)
• Round 2 (sc, inc) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 3 (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 4 (sc3, inc) x2 (10 sts)
• Fold ears in half and sew across. Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Make another identically.

Arms (in white sport weight yarn, then switch to beige sport weight yarn)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-5 (3 rnds) sc all around (12 sts)
• Switch to beige yarn.
• Round 6-11 (6 rnds) sc all around (12 sts)
• Do not stuff, and fold the back flat. Finish off and sew the opening flat across, leaving a short tail for sewing. Make another identically.

Legs (in white sport weight yarn)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4-9 (6 rnds) sc all around (18 sts)
• Stuff lightly, and invisible finish off, sewing flat across the opening, leaving a short tail for sewing. Make another identically.

Scarf (in green sport weight yarn, in turned rows)

• Begin FSC 4, chain and turn (4 sts)
• Row 1-46 (47 rows) FLO, hdc4, chain and turn (4 sts)
• Invisible finish off.

Santa Hat (in red sport weight yarn, then change to white. Worked in joined rounds)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3 (sc3, inc) x2 (10 sts)
• Round 4 (sc4, inc) x2 (12 sts)
• Round 5 (sc5, inc) x2 (14 sts)
• Round 6 (sc6, inc) x2 (16 sts)
• Round 7 (sc7, inc) x2 (18 sts)
• Round 8 (sc8, inc) x2 (20 sts)
• Switch to white yarn.
• Round 9 (sc9, inc) x2 (22 sts)
• Round 10 (sc10, inc) x2 (24 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.

Hat Pompom (in white sport weight yarn)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 sc all around (12 sts) Stuff.
• Round 5 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off, and sew to the top of the Santa hat.

Assembly

1. Embroider a nose on the muzzle with three stitches of black embroidery thread. Then, sew the muzzle on the head between rounds 11 and 15 (counting from the top of the head).
2. Attach 5.0mm safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, 5 stitches apart (counting from the top of the head).
3. Sew the ears to the head to the left and right of the top of the head, between rounds 6 and 8 (counting from the top).
4. Sew the hat directly on top of the head.
5. Sew the arms to the right and left of the body, with the closed seam located between rounds 24 and 28 (counting from the bottom).
6. Sew the legs to the left and right of the body, between rounds 8 and 13 (counting from the bottom).

I hope you enjoyed making Carl the Alpaca! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

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The post Carl the Alpaca Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.