When I first started crocheting, I ended up working entirely in FLO for my first few projects. It’s a common mistake, so don’t worry if you realize you’ve been doing it this whole time. It can add a nice texture!

As a general rule when crocheting, make sure you are inserting your hook through both top loops. If it says FLO or BLO, then you’ll work in only one of those loops. Read on for a full photo tutorial!

Front Loop Only (FLO)

You may see Front Loop Only listed differently in patterns, but they will all have some form of FLO. Check the abbreviations at the start of the pattern!

To identify the front loop of your stitch, hold your project like normal with the right side facing you. The front loop will be the loop that is closest to you, in front of the loop behind it (if that helps you remember!).

If you plan to work your project inside out (wrong side out) or flip it (unless the pattern specifically calls for FLO and flipping the project), you will need to work in the Back Loop. It will become the Front Loop once you flip it.

In pretty much every single pattern I have come across, you will not have to worry about crocheting in the front loops until either row or round two or three. You’ll always do FLO after you’ve set up the foundations of your project.

To crochet FLO, it’s quite simple: insert your hook into the loop closest to you and crochet like normal. Any stitch will do!

Ideas and Common Uses for FLO

Add layers, depth, and dimension

When using the FLO, the loops you did not use will create a ridge on the ‘wrong’ side of your work, such as the inside of an amigurumi, the inside of a sweater, or the back of a blanket.

You can use these extra loops to your advantage to add more depth and dimension to your project. You can use the open loops to add layers, hiding extra parts of stitches to create a cleaner 3D appearance.

Taller, stretchier stitches

For me, when I work in FLO, I find that it creates a stretchier fabric than BLO. Depending on your hook size, yarn size, and tension, you may find that it’s less elastic than I do.

FLO will be more elastic than working in both loops, regardless of the stitch or your tension. It creates a lovely drape!

Working in the FLO will cause your project to work up slightly taller. It may not be noticeable if it’s just a single project, but working similar projects side-by-side in one or both loops may show a difference.

It’s not as sturdy, since it only uses one loop, so I wouldn’t recommend using it for an entire amigurumi (especially if you have loose tension). It also leaves bigger gaps between the stitches, which can cause stuffing to poke through.

Inner ridge for sewing

While it shouldn’t really be used for an entire amigurumi, it’s great for creating an inner line to sew on, such as creating a collar of a shirt while leaving an area to sew on the head.

An example of this can be found in my red panda pattern. I used FLO to create a bend in the body/shirt, naturally creating a no-sew collar.

The open loops create a ridge inside of the body, which allows me to easily line up and sew the head onto the body without it being crooked. I can use the loops to anchor my sewing and not worry about the sewing yarn poking through the outside of the body.

Cleaner color changes

FLO can also be used for cleaner color changes. You can see it happen in my red panda pattern as well as I work the shirt color into the arms. (It only has to happen on the first different color row, not the whole thing.)

Because it makes the stitch taller and uses only half of the loops, FLO color changes help reduce the jagged look some crocheted stripes get. If you like how that looks, you don’t have to worry about it. There’s a sort of charm with things that clearly look crocheted!

Reduce row slanting

It can help with reducing drastic row slanting while using multiple colors. While I still don’t recommend using it for the whole amigurumi project since it’s less stable, it might be a technique to try if your rows slant too much and you would rather avoid shifting your stitches.

FLO is not as common as BLO, mainly because the ridges and texture it creates are on the wrong side of the work that typically gets hidden in one way or another.

Back Loop Only (BLO)

You may see Back Loop Only listed differently in patterns, but they will all have some form of BLO. Make sure to check the abbreviations at the start of the pattern!

To figure out what is the back loop, just like when you are crocheting FLO, you will hold your project like normal with the right side facing you. The back loop will be the loop behind the Front Loop, or the loop that is facing away from you, also known as the inner loop.

I find that BLO tends to be more commonly found in amigurumi patterns, as it leaves open loops for you to work in later.

If you plan to work your project inside out (wrong side out) or flip it (unless the pattern specifically calls for BLO and flipping the project), you will need to work in the Front Loop. It will become the Back Loop once you flip it.

Similar to its sister, you will insert your hook into the loop facing away from you and crochet your stitch like normal. You also won’t need to worry about working in BLO until you get beyond row/round one.

Ideas and Common Uses for BLO

Outer loops for exact sewing

By leaving an open ridge of front loops available, you can pin and sew your extra pieces on that exact spot without any sort of guesswork. BLO is great for sewing on outer pieces in the exact spot you want them to be!

Creating no-sew options

It’s also a great no-sew option to add on extra pieces! Instead of working on an item separately then sewing it on, you can use the open front loops to work the item directly onto the piece.

For example, in my Julie the Bear Girl pattern, you will work one of the body rounds completely in the back loop. It may seem weird at first, but further along in the pattern, they come back into play.

You will insert your hook into those unworked front loops to crochet the skirt. Instead of working the skirt, slipping it on, then sewing it, I have you working the skirt directly onto the doll without any of that sewing fuss.

It helps you see how long or short you want to make the skirt, and there’s no guesswork involved. The skirt won’t be too tight or too loose, and it will be the length you’ll want it to be.

Textured doll hair

Doll hair can come in all kinds of styles, such as Jacqueline the Cellist with her multiple one-row strands or a tidy head piece and bun styled on Lingling the Lunar New Year Girl. Neither one of them uses any BLO in their hair, which gives their hair straight locks (as much as the natural curve of crocheting allows).

In Angelica’s pattern, along with the planned increases, I use the BLO technique to give her textured hair. It gives her bouncy curls as well as mimicking braids on top of her head.

If you ever get stuck on a hair piece that looks a bit bland, give the BLO technique a try! The texture might be just what you’re looking for.

Taller, elastic fabric

Just like with FLO, it will make your stitches taller and more flexible. This is a great technique for creating stretchy ribbing.

With BLO ribbing, you won’t have to add in any elastic bands (unless you want or need that extra support). It has a natural elasticity due to the nature of the stitches.

Different stitches will lead to different types of ribbing, which can change how they look and behave. Keep that in mind whenever you need to do some ribbing.

Decorative ridges

Not every technique needs to be functional. Since BLO leaves unworked front loops, those are typically on the ‘right’ side of the work. They’re not hidden, which can be to your advantage.

I once crocheted an entire blanket in BLO during my beginnings as a crocheter, and the ridges it created are quite nice! The unworked front loops give the blanket a nice texture that we would have missed out on if I hadn’t made the mistake in the first place.

Keeps fluffy yarn fluffy

If you’ve ever crocheted with fuzzy, fluffy, or faux fur yarn, you may have experienced a decrease in the fluffiness of the yarn. The stitches twist and tighten around each other, flattening the fluff.

While it doesn’t cause enough problems to the point where your project isn’t fluffy, you may be disappointed that your fluffy yarn isn’t, well, as fluffy as it was in the skein. If you crochet in BLO, you may find out that it’s a bit fluffier than working in both loops!

The unworked front loops will be open and free, not flattening or twisted into stitches, and keep your fluffy yarn fluffy. This way, it can keep some of that fluffiness you may desire from that unworked skein.

Please note: if you take a pattern that is worked in both loops and try to make it all in BLO, it may change your final project. I would only recommend switching up stitches in patterns if you’re an experienced crocheter (or know what you’re getting into!).

The post How to Crochet in the FLO & BLO (photo tutorial!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

This roundup has a collection for simple yet stunning stitches that are great for blankets and go beyond the basics. While these stitches can be used for other items, this roundup will focus on how these stitches will work with blankets.

With this collection of stitches, if you decide to try any of them, not only will you be gaining the muscle memory of a new stitch, but you also acquire essential techniques to improve your skills and master the art of crochet.

This roundup will use US stitch terminology. Most stitches listed will be best for crocheters who have some experience.

Note: some stitches may be known by multiple different names beyond what this roundup refers to them as. Different stitches may also be referred to by the same name as some of the stitches listed.

Clusters, Pairs, and Spikes

Lemon Peel

Also known as the up and down stitch, this is an incredibly simple, reversible stitch that’s perfect for beginners. It is made up of alternating double and single crochets.

Written & chart instructions: The Crochet Fox

Written & photo instructions: Desert Blossom Crafts

Videos: YarnThrift

Variation: Wide Checkers

This is an extended version of the lemon peel stitch. Instead of alternating one single crochet and one double crochet, you will work groups of alternating double and single crochets. Looped and Knotted has written and photo instructions.

Suzette

Similar to the lemon peel stitch, the sturdy and reversible suzette stitch is worked in pairs of double and single crochets.

Unlike the lemon peel stitch, instead of working the stitches into different stitches, you will crochet one single and one double crochet into the same stitch, chain one, skip the next stitch, and repeat.

Written & photo instructions: The Spruce Crafts

Video: Blossom Crochet

Waistcoat

This easy stitch allows you to get that knit look without knitting! It creates dense and heavy items, so take care when choosing this stitch for blankets. It might be better for a small throw or lap blanket.

It involves only single crochets, but instead of inserting your hook in between the stitches, you insert your hook into the middle of the stitch (the ‘v’ middle part of the stitch).

Written & photo instructions: Heart Hook Home

Video: E’Claire Makery

Moss

Also known as the woven, tweed, linen, or granite stitch, this beginner friendly stitch is perfect for stretchy, lightweight blankets. It’s great for showcasing color changes if you need to work on your yarn stash.

The moss stitch involves one row repeat of one single crochet, chain one, and skip one stitch. You will single crochet into the chain one space on the next row.

Written & photo instructions: Heart Hook Home

Video: Ginger Knots

Sieve

This strong, mesh-like stitch is perfect for blankets. With only a two-row repeat, it’s not complicated and is a great stitch for beginners to learn and advanced crocheters to sit back and relax with.

In a way, it is a lot like the moss stitch but with an extra step. It involves one row of single crochets then another row of one single crochet, chaining one, skipping the next stitch, and repeating until the end of the row.

Written & photo instructions: Nordic Hook

Video: Rich Textures Crochet

Corner to Corner (C2C)

The corner to corner (C2C) stitch is a special stitch; its rows increase and decrease diagonally in tiles instead of the typical horizontal row. It uses double crochets (or half double), slip stitches, and chains.

It’s great for blankets and works up quite quickly! It can be a little bit daunting for beginners, but Make and Do Crew has a detailed blog post on how to start and what goes into a C2C blanket. The Purple Poncho has videos on double C2C and half double C2C.

Even Berry

This cluster stitch includes a new stitch: the berry stitch. Essentially, it is a cluster of two double crochets. It creates a cute berry-like texture, which would look great in different colors!

The even berry stitch is a two-row repeat. You will start with a row of single crochets, then a second row of alternating single crochets and berry stitches.

Written & photo instructions for both berry stitch and swatch: Daisy Farm Crafts

Video (UK terms): Bella Coco

Variation: Uneven Berry

Instead of stacking the berry clusters on top of each other, this variation offsets them by one stitch. For written instructions, New Stitch A Day has a straight-to-the-point post. For video instructions, the American Crochet Association has a YouTube video to watch.

Herringbone (Half Double)

Basically just a fancier version of the half double crochet, this reversible stitch gives the appearance of a slanting pattern due to how it is worked forward and backward. It’s great for blankets, either in one color or many!

Written & photo instructions: Crochet 365 Knit Too

Videos: Amanda Crochets (traditional) or Day’s Crochet (variation)

Variation: Herringbone (Double)

This stitch is exactly like the half double herringbone, except with double crochets! For written instructions, check out B. Hooked Crochet. For a video tutorial, check out HopefulHoney.

Silt

Since this stitch’s pattern is so subtle, it’s perfect for large projects like blankets so it can be appreciated in its entirety. Contrasting colors make this stitch pop!

The silt stitch involves one row of double crochets and a second row of double crochets, skipped stitches, and a pair of double crochets with a single crochet.

Written & photo instructions: love. life. Yarn.

Video: Bag-O-Day Crochet

Blanket Stitch

This blanket stitch roundup wouldn’t be complete with the easy blanket stitch. It’s perfect for blankets or anything that needs a dense stitch.

It only involves pairs of single and double crochets with a few skipped stitches. It gives blankets a great soft, squishy texture.

Written & photo instructions: Heart Hook Home

Video: Lullaby Lodge Crochet

Aligned Double Clusters

This super easy cluster stitch is only a two-row repeat of one double crochet row with decreases and chains plus a second row of simple single crochets with chains. It’s a little bit like the moss stitch with an extra double crochet step.

Written instructions: Daisy Cottage Designs

Video: Heart Hook Home

Variation: Pique

This plush stitch is similarly constructed to the aligned double cluster stitch with a few different steps. You won’t have a single crochet row, but rather continue with double and half double crochet clusters throughout.

For in depth written and photo instructions, Heart Hook Home has a great post. For video instructions, check out Stardust Gold Crochet.

Alternate Spikes

This dense stitch is one of the easiest out there as it only involves the single crochet. You will need to learn the spike stitch, which is just another term for a stitch that happens in a row lower than the one currently being worked.

Written & photo instructions: Heart Hook Home

Video: HopefulHoney

Basket

There is another stitch known as the ‘basketweave stitch’ which will pop up when searching for this stitch, but the basket stitch does not involve the front or back post like the basketweave stitch.

Instead, it is a stitch with double crochets pairs, chains, and double crochet decreases. You won’t have to learn what is considered a post of a stitch with this design!

Written instructions: Darn Good Yarn

Video: The Yarnist

Larksfoot

Sometimes called the mirror stitch, larksfoot looks a bit like the foot of a bird, which may be where it got its name! It’s great for colorful blankets as contrasting colors really emphasize this design.

This stitch involves double crochets as well as skipped stitches and spiked double crochets. It’s much easier than it appears.

Written & photo instructions: Dream a Little Bigger

Video: naztazia

Variation: Caterpillar Stripe

This variation might not be as well known as the larksfoot stitch, but it is quite similar and works up well when using different colors. For a video demonstration, Bag-O-Day Crochet has a detailed YouTube video.

Fans, Shells, and Waves

Sprig

A combination of chains, single, and half double crochets, this cute fan-like design is perfect for large (and small!) blankets. It’s great for both entire pieces and as a border and looks great in variegated yarns.

Written & photo instructions: crochetmelovely

Video: Daisy Farm Crafts

Arcade

Also known as mini arcade or wheatsheaf, this stitch is best for decorative blankets due to the holes the fans/arches make. It’s great for colorful yarns as well! Consisting of single, double, chains, and skipped stitches, this stitch is great for beginners and beyond.

Written & photo instructions: The Loophole Fox

Video: Hooked By Robin

Tulip

This stitch offers a similar C2C effect without worrying about the diagonal rows. Only dealing with chains and double and single crochet, this easy stitch works up quickly and comes with a built-in border for your blankets!

Written & photo instructions: love. life. yarn.

Video: The Unraveled Mitten

Close Scallops

Also simply known as the scallop or shell stitch, this stitch is most often used as a decorative border on blankets, but it can be used for the entire blanket as well. All it takes is an easy two-row repeat of double crochets clusters, skipped stitches, and single crochets to lock the shells into place.

Written instructions: Maria’s Blue Crayon

Border photo instructions: Adornos Malulu

Video: HappyBerry Crochet

Variation: Open Scallops

Essentially a looser version of close scallops, it also introduces a special stitch: wide double crochet 2 together. TheCrochetFox has a written explanation of the pattern and new stitch. For a video, check out Creative Grandma.

Wave

While there are a few different takes on the wave stitch, this list will focus on the wave stitch that involves an easy repeat of single, half double, double, two treble/triple, double, half double, and single crochets. You will place the tallest stitches on the shortest stitches and vice versa.

Written & photo instructions: Pine Tree Crochet

Video: Blossom Crochet

Variation: Long Wave

This variation is simply an extended version of the wave stitch. For written and photo instructions, check out Rich Texture Crochet. For video instructions, check out Nicki’s Homemade Crafts.

Chevron

Chevron, or the zig-zag stitch, is one of the most iconic crochet stitches in the world. It can be crocheted with different stitches (depending on what height you want to the peaks to be), but it will always involve a three stitch decrease.

Written & photo instructions: Craftsy

Video: American Crochet Association

Variation: Granny Chevron

Also known as the granny ripple stitch, this takes the iconic chevron and granny square stitch and combines them into rippling clusters of double or treble crochets.

Written instructions: Crochet n Create (both treble and double crochet)

Video: All Crafts Channel

Harlequin

This lovely wheel-like stitch is suited best for confident crocheters and for blankets in different colors. It involves a three-row repeat of double crochet clusters, chains, and single crochets to create the wheel-like design.

Written & photo instructions: love. life. yarn.

Video: Daisy Farm Crafts

Variations: Starburst & Catherine’s Wheel

These two larger sister stitches are a bit more complicated than the harlequin stitch. Catherine’s Wheel is the most circular of the three. For a larger, diamond-like stitch, starburst is the way to go.

Written instructions and comparisons for all three: Crystals and Crochet

Box

This specific box stitch is essentially a boxy version of the traditional scallop stitch but with a twist. It uses single and double crochets paired with crocheting around the posts of former stitches.

This stitch is not meant for beginners who are just starting out, but it does offer a good challenge if you choose to try it out! There are other kinds of ‘box stitches’ out there, so don’t be surprised if different stitches pop out when googling for more information!

Written & photo instructions: Crochet-News.com

Video: Free crochet patterns

Bonus: Dragonfly

While this stitch is better for experienced crocheters, I couldn’t help but include it! It’s such a unique stitch. For video instructions, check out Sirin’s Crochet. For a collection of written dragonfly stitch blanket patterns, you can find that on Pattern Center.

The post 33 Simple and Stunning Stitches for Blankets (with photos & videos!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

1. The Alpine Stitch

The Alpine Stitch is beautifully textured and a great choice for cozy winter garments. I’ve written a tutorial on this stitch that you can find here: Easy Step-by-Step Guide for the Alpine Stitch (with Photos!). The alternating normal and front post stitches add dimension to your finished piece, and the basic stitches used to create the effect are really simple! All you need to know are single crochet and double crochet stitches to get started.

2. The Chevron Stitch

Another great choice is the Chevron Stitch. As the name suggests, this stitch creates a chevron pattern on your final piece. This can add a subtle pattern with just one color of yarn, or you can use the stitch to create chevron stripes with as many colors as you’d like.

I also have a tutorial on the Chevron Stitch! It can be found at this link: How to Crochet the Elegant Chevron Crochet Stitch (easy!). To learn this stitch, I would recommend starting with a rectangular piece. This makes a scarf or blanket a great first project with the Chevron Stitch.

3. The Thermal Stitch

The Thermal Stitch is the warmest crochet stitch I’ve tried! It is worked up in 2 layers, giving your finished project double the warmth and coziness. Any project that needs to stand up to some wear and tear is a great candidate for the thermal stitch. Plus, it is really easy to learn! My tutorial, How to Crochet the Thermal Stitch (single crochet), shows how to complete the stitch with single crochets, but the stitch can be done with half-double crochets, or even double crochets.

4. The Herringbone Double Crochet Stitch

Named after the spine on a herring fish, the Herringbone Double Crochet Stitch is another good choice for your more masculine crochet projects. The pattern created by this stitch is geometric and resembles a zig zag. You can find my tutorial for this stitch here: Herringbone Double Crochet Stitch (HBDC).

5. The Waffle Stitch

The Waffle Stitch is such a fun and textured stitch! Again, as the name suggests, this stitch resembles a waffle and is much easier than it looks! The stitch is made up of a series of double crochets and front post double crochets, so that’s all you need to know to start learning it. A tutorial from Heart Hook Home is linked here: Waffle Stitch Crochet Tutorial.

6. The Camel Stitch

Another simple and textured stitch is the Camel Stitch. The pattern mimics ribbed and knit-look stitches, but is really easy to make! Bella Coco Crochet has great written instructions as well as a YouTube video to guide you through each step of the stitch. Both can be found at this link: Camel Stitch.

7. The Moss Stitch

The Moss Stitch is a super beginner-friendly crochet stitch! It is made from alternating between chain stitches and single crochet stitches. Since it is very easy to work, the Moss Stitch is the perfect stitch to learn after you’ve masted the basics. The Moss Stitch also has many names like the linen stitch, granite stitch, and woven stitch. Whatever you like to call it, it is super versatile with a modern texture and nice drape. Check out Sarah Maker’s tutorial here: Crochet Moss Stitch.

8. The Single Rib Stitch

Another super simple stitch, the Single Rib Stitch is perfect for gifting to any stripe fanatics! The ribbed texture adds some interest to otherwise simple crochet projects like hats, gloves, and scarves. In this way, it is a great choice for masculine projects. There’s a great written tutorial on Dream a Little Bigger: Single Rib Crochet Stitch Tutorial.

9. The Basketweave Stitch

Any double crochet fans out there should definitely try the Basketweave Stitch! Front post double crochet stitches give this stitch its wonderful texture and pattern. Daisy Farm Crafts has a great written tutorial (with a linked video tutorial!): Crochet Basketweave Stitch.

10. The Elizabeth Stitch

The Elizabeth Stitch (also called the Mini Bean stitch) is absolutely beautiful. It’s sweet, elegant and has a gentle criss-cross look to it. More importantly, it’s a really fun and easy stitch to crochet. Dabbles and Babbles has both a written and video tutorial published for this stitch! Both can be found at: The Elizabeth Stitch.

11. The Star Stitch

The Star Stitch looks like a row of little stars! These starburst-like stitches are each worked with multiple loops. Sometimes this stitch is given other names including the marguerite stitch, the daisy stitch, or the spiked cluster stitch. Each name is helpful in that it gives you a visual of what the final stitch looks like. Each “star” is formed from a cluster of “spikes.” For more information, check out this written tutorial from Spruce Crafts: Crocheting the Star Stitch.

12. The V Double Crochet Stitch

This final stitch on the list is yet another chevron patterned stitch! The V Double Crochet Stitch gives a simple, geometric pattern that can be gorgeous in one color or be accentuated by crocheting with contrasting stripes of yarn. Check out the written instruction from Dream a Little Bigger: V Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial.

The post 12 Easiest Masculine Crochet Stitches for Accessories appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

This stitch is wonderfully simple as it mainly involves double crochets! It works up pretty quickly making it perfect for blankets and garments, both of which I’ve included patterns for at the end of this tutorial so be sure to check that out!

I think this stitch looks super effective, especially when worked in alternating colours. I have done this between rows, although changing between stitches in the one row could make an intricate touch! You could also play around with hook size and yarn ply of course to make the stitch come up more net like or condensed, the choice is yours!

Helpful Tips

The 2-Double-Crochet Cluster Stitch super easy for anyone new or experienced with crocheting! This is because the only stitches it involves are:

Chain (ch)

Double Crochet (dc), with a twist

…and that’s it! You will have the hang of it in no time, especially with this easy to follow tutorial that walks you right through.

The 2-Double-Crochet Cluster Stitch may be used for special detailing at any point of a project, but ideally you want your stitch count to be an even number. If not, you may have to change the double crochets done at the start and end of rows so that it suits your work, but that’s not too much of a worry. Now, let’s get into the tutorial!

Stitch Tutorial

(To start) Step 1: Slip knot yarn onto hook and chain desired length, making sure it is an even number.

FIRST ROW

Step 2: Double crochet into the third chain from your hook.

Step 3: Double crochet again into the next chain along.

Step 4: Chain 1 and skip 1 chain.

Step 5: Insert hook into the next chain and go through the motion of a double crochet until you have 2 loops on your hook.

Step 6: Yarn over, insert hook into the same chain and complete a double crochet. To do this, pull yarn through to have 4 loops, pull hook through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 3 loops. (This is what makes your 2-Double-Crochet Cluster!)

Step 7: Repeat Steps 4-6 until you are 3 chains from the end of the row.

Step 8: Skip 1 chain and double crochet into the last 2 chains of the row.

COLOUR CHANGE

For the purposes of this tutorial I will change colours to help distinguish between the first and second rows, but you can too! Here is a mini tutorial on how to change colours:

Before completing your double crochet in the last chain of the row, use your new colour to pull through the last two loops.

Double knot the strands of each colour together to secure.

To weave in ends at the same time as you work, hold strands between inserting your hook into a stitch and pulling yarn through hoops, as seen in the image of Step 10.This can be fiddly and takes practice, so leaving them out to weave in later is fine too!

SECOND ROW

Step 9: Turn work and chain 4.

Step 10: Skip the 2 double crochets from last row.

Step 11: Insert yarn into the 1 chain space and complete a 2-Double-Crochet Cluster as per Steps 5 and 6. Chain 1.

Step 12: Repeat Step 11 until you get to a 2-Double-Crochet Cluster in the last 1 chain space.

Step 13: Skip 1 stitch (this is a double crochet from last row) and double crochet in the last stitch. End with a colour change if you choose too!

Step 14: Repeat as per First and Second rows until desired length and congrats, you are done!

Video Tutorial

If you are more of a visual learner, here is a video tutorial by AllFreeCrochet who shows how to do the 2-Double-Crochet Cluster Stitch!

Project Ideas

Cluster Stitch Crochet Blanket

This blanket is a perfect example of how the 2-Double-Crochet Cluster Stitch may be used within a project! I love the colours here, the pastels allow it to be a lovely baby blanket or home décor for the couch. Since the stitch works up quickly, it is great for big projects like blankets so that you will have one to keep you warm in no time!

Wasilla Poncho

How beautiful does that crochet poncho look?! And the colours here have a lovely Autumn feel! Aside from the 2-Double-Crochet Cluster Stitch, stitches such as single crochet puff stitch and alternative double crochet are also included which may be new. This makes it more of an intermediate project but the pattern is clear and includes linked tutorials, so there’s no need to lead that deter you from giving it a go!

The post How to Crochet the 2-Double-Crochet Cluster Stitch (Easy!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Are you looking for the perfect stitch that is beginner friendly but has endless possibilities? Look no further than the Chevron Stitch!

About the Chevron Stitch

The Chevron Stitch is related to the Herringbone Stitch as the structure of the stitches can resemble the skeleton of a fish, but don’t confuse the two (see my blog post, here, for more information on the Herringbone Double Crochet stitch!). The Chevron Stitch has a lot more versatility to how it can be created and used in designs! 

Chevrons are a classic stitch that was re-popularized in the 1950’s by the fashion designer Missoni. It is popular as you don’t need a pattern to start creating the Chevron pattern. The Chevron is created through a series of “peaks” and “valleys”. The peaks are created by increasing stitches and the valleys are created by decreasing stitches. Easy, right? 

You can change the look of the Chevron Stitch by changing the number of stitches within the peaks and valleys, as well as changing the number of stitches between the peaks and valleys. By increasing or decreasing the number of stitches in the peaks and valleys you can change how defined the Chevron will look. By changing the number of stitches between each peak and valley, you will affect how many Chevron repeats will be in your piece.

You won’t see a symbol chart for the chevron stitch as the Chevron Stitch is made out of one stitch but a series of stitches across the pattern.

Wondering what else you can do with a Chevron Stitch or how you can take it to the next level? You can use the Chevron Stitch to create all of the stitches below! 

• Half Double Crochet Chevron
• Double Crochet Chevron
• Wide Chevrons
• Ridged Chevrons
• Ribbed Chevrons
• Peephole Chevrons
• Bobble Chevrons
• Granny Chevron 

Check out the book, Crochet Stitch Dictionary by Sarah Hazell, for how to create all of these fantastic variations to the Chevron Stitch!

You can also play with the color combinations to create an infinite number of looks and designs!

Let’s Make a Swatch!

Materials

• Yarn
• Crochet Hook
• Scissors
• Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations

• ch – Chain
• Sc – Single Crochet 
• st(s) – Stitch(es) 

In the tutorial below I am using Knit Pick Brave (sport weight) yarn and a 4 mm hook. We will be starting with a chain that is a multiple of 16 + 2 (as there are 16 stitches in one repeat plus 1 stitch for an extra peak at the end of the row plus 1 stitch for turning). As stated above, this multiple changes depending on the number of stitches in your peak, valleys, and number of stitches in between the peaks and valleys.

Row 1: Chain 34.

Row 2: Sc 2 times in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next 6 sts, sc the next 3 sts together, sc in the next 6 sts, sc 3 times in the next st, sc in the next 6 sts, sc the next 3 sts together, sc in the next 6 sts, sc 2 times in the next st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1. Sc 2 times in the first stitch, sc in the next 6 sts, sc the next 3 sts together, sc in the next 6 sts, sc 3 times in the next st, sc in the next 6 sts, sc the next 3 sts together, sc in the next 6 sts, sc 2 times in the last st. Turn.

Repeat Row 3 until your swatch measures 4”.

What did you think? Did you have as much fun as I did making the Chevron Stitch?! 

Do you like to follow along to a video? The video tutorial below shows not only how to crochet the Chevron Stitch (it is called a Ripple in this video), but it also provides a free tutorial on how to make a blanket!

Patterns that use the Chevron Stitch

This cute scarf uses the Chevron Stitch to establish the width of the scar so that you can customize the length to however short or long you want it! Make your own Chevron Scarf here.

This cute bucket bag uses the Chevron Stitch throughout the bag, but changes the color every couple of rows to create a cute accent! Make your own bag here.

The post How to Crochet the Elegant Chevron Crochet Stitch (easy!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

The interlocking fan stitch is intricate-looking but do not be fooled- it is a simple stitch consisting of mainly basic techniques, so with the help of this tutorial you will have it mastered in no time!

It looks most effective when using alternating colours, whether it be stripy, rainbow or any combination! The variations are endless, I love that about the stitch. This is what I have done for my swatch, out of preference, but also so you guys can distinguish the rows better for learning.

This stitch is repetitive and works up quickly, so will make the perfect design for many projects- whether it be a blanket, scarf and more. I have listed some project ideas at the end of this stitch tutorial so be sure to check that out!

Helpful Tips

The interlocking fan stitch is incredibly beginner friendly as it only requires a combination of basic stitches! These include:

Chain (ch)

Single Crochet (sc)

Double Crochet (dc)

When chaining your initial row, make sure to do it in multiples of 6. This is important for yours fans to fit appropriately in the row. Like 6, 12, 18 chains- or more depending how big you want your project to be! Then add an additional two chains.

The way these rows are worked may seem a bit abstract. For example, on one row there are four fans and the next there are three. This may have you thinking your count is off, but never fear! By following this tutorial you will have a lovely patch or shape suitable for your project in no time.

Stitch Tutorial

(To start) Step 1: Slip knot yarn onto hook and chain to desired length (making sure it is in multiple of 6, plus 2!)

FIRST ROW

Step 2: Complete one row of single crochet.

SECOND ROW

Step 3: Chain 3 and turn work.

Step 4: Skip single crochet and double crochet into next stitch.

Step 5: Skip two single crochet, double crochet twice, chain 2 and double crochet twice again (2dc, 2ch, dc). This is what creates your fan shape!

Step 6: Skip two single chain, double crochet. Repeat until two single crochet remain.

Step 7: Skip 1 single crochet and double crochet into the last stitch. Check out below if you would like to change the colour like I did, or go on to step 8!

(Optional) Colour Change

What I like to do is go through the stitch as usual until last two loops remain on the hook. Then instead of pulling your original yarn through these, pull new colour through as I am doing below with changing from green to brown!

Cut original yarn and tightly double knot loose strands together for these to be woven in now or later. Continue as normal.

Step 8: Chain 3 and turn work.

THIRD ROW

Step 9: Skip 1 single crochet and double crochet into next stitch. This is above the double crochet from last row.

Step 10: Skip stitches and double crochet into middle of the fan from last row (between two sets of double crochets as represented below!).

Step 11: Skip stitches and complete a fan stitch (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) into the double crochet from last row.

Step 12: Continue alternating between double crocheting in previous double crochets and fans until you have two single crochets remaining. Skip one and double crochet into last stitch, like how we finished the previous row.

Repeat as per Second and Third Rows until desired length and congrats, you are done!

Video Tutorial

Here is a video tutorial by Desert Blossom Crafts that will walk you right through the interlocking fan stitch!

Project Ideas

Peacock Cowl

This stylish cowl will work up quickly and looks super effective when used with a gradient coloured yarn, and only uses one skein! The interlocking fan stitch is repetitive, making this pattern easy to memorise. You will be making cowls in a colours to match every outfit in no time!

Other project ideas include blankets (how cute would a baby blanket be in alternating pastel colours?!) or a table runner. Both of these would just involve aligning your stitch and row count right to the size you would like.

The post Easy Step-by-Step Tutorial for the Interlocking Fan Stitch appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

The Jasmine stitch, often said to look like a star or flower, is a beautiful stitch that can be used in a variety of ways. To me it resembles Japanese cherry blossoms, so I enjoy working this with a pink yarn! It may appear complex at first glance, although once practiced it makes an easy and effective-looking stitch!

In this tutorial I will show you how to create the Jasmine stitch yourself with various photos and detailed descriptions so that you will have it mastered in no time. I have also included some project ideas at the end of this tutorial for those that wish to make something more than just a pretty patch!

Helpful Tips

I recommend chunky yarn for this stitch as it is easier to work with for this particular stitch and looks better when worked. Although a lower ply yarn still works, it may be a bit fiddlier! I am using Moda Vera Shadow Yarn, in a gradient pink.

If you tend to have a loose tension, I’d recommend using a smaller hook. For example, I found 3.5mm works well with 8ply as I’m using to demonstrate, but you might like to experiment with hook size and yarns to find what best for you and your project.

To do this stitch you need to know how to:

C – Chain

Sc – Single crochet

The rest involves a lot of wrapping yarn around the hook that you may not otherwise be familiar with! This is not a super complex stitch as it becomes consistent after the second row, although I would say absolute beginners become confident with the basics before attempting this stitch.

Without further ado, let us get into the tutorial!

Stitch Tutorial

Step 1 (to start): Slip knot yarn onto your hook and chain 2.

Step 2: Pull yarn until you have a few centimetres between your hook and chains.

Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook into the second chain and pull yarn through, making two more loops about the same length. You have three loops on your hook.

Step 4: Repeat step 3, leaving you with five loops on your hook.

Step 5: Yarn over again, and before pulling through all five loops you want to pitch the yarn as to leave a gap that you can return to later.

Step 6: Insert hook into gap and pull yarn through. With two loops now on your hook, finish like a single crochet. Chain 1.

Step 7: Repeat steps 3-6, this time inserting hook into stitch and not second chain, until you have desired length, with an extra puff to act as a turning stitch!

Step 8: Work stitch until you have five loops on your hook (into (1) as indicated in the image below!) and instead of pulling through like usual- yarn over, insert hook into hole from previous stitch (2) and pull through. You have seven loops on your hook. Repeat yarn over and pull through so you have nine loops (2 again).

Step 9: Yarn over and insert hooks into next hole along the left (3), yarn over and pull through (3 again). You have thirteen loops on your hook.

Step 10 : Now you want to yarn over, pinch yarn like earlier and pull through all thirteen loops. This is probably the trickiest part of Jasmine stitch as it is tedious, but after some practice it gets easier and is worth the effort, I promise! Something I found first off is that it can be awkward to pinch and pull through all the stitches, so try holding the gap with a spare crochet hook, pen, chopstick- whatever you have around.

Step 11: Once you have pulled through all the loops, insert hook into the gap we made and pull through. With the two loops on your hook, make a tight slip stitch. Chain 1.

Step 12: The stitch is consistent from here on out! Repeat steps 8-11, although the first place to insert your hook is now centre of the stitch just made. I labelled another image to hopefully make this easier to understand!

Step 13: Repeat step 12 until you reach the end of the row, making sure your last puff is done in the initial second chain.

Step 14: Turn work, chain 1.

Work Jasmine stitch the same row 2 until desired size and you are done!

Video Tutorial

If you are a visual learner, here is a YouTube video by HappyBerry Crochet that will walk you right through the Jasmine stitch!

Project Ideas

Jasmine Star Stitch Valet Tray

Here is a simple pattern that showcases the jasmine stitch beautifully! As it is a reversable and thick stitch, it can easily be used for practical patterns such as this tray. It consists of a low ply cotton yarn, crocheting a square and then crimping each corner using whip stitch.

Jasmine Purse

Crocheted using t-shirt yarn and an easy-to-follow pattern, this project can be done in just a couple hours! It makes a great gift for someone else or a treat to yourself. By making multiple in various colours, you will have a bag to match every outfit in no time!

Face Scrubbies/Basket

This pattern includes face scrubbies and a basket that makes adorable storage! The Jasmine stitch can be very yarn-consuming, so here we see detail of the stitch without going overboard. The pattern includes images, detailed instructions and short videos, so is incredibly beginner friendly!

Other project ideas include blankets, beanies, cushions and more!

The post Master the Jasmine Stitch with this easy tutorial (photos!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

IT’S SO PUFFY!!!! 

Ready to learn about a simple, but fun stitch that literally adds dimension to your crochet work? Meet the Puff Stitch! 

About the Puff Stitch

The Puff Stitch is a series of half double crochets that are all started in the same stitch, but then finished when one loop is brought through all loops on the hook. 

But don’t confuse the Puff Stitch for the Bobble or Popcorn stitches! They are similar but differ slightly in their construction, flexibility, yardage used, and softness. Out of the three stitches, the Puff stitches offers moderate flexibility, uses the least amount of yarn, and is the softest!

Unlike other stitches that create dimension on your make, the puff stitch does not have a wrong or right side. This makes it handy for when you need to have the puff on back-to-back rows. It can also be used as an embellishment when making garments, blankets, accessories. Some designs have even used the puff stitch to create unique designs like letters and words!

The size of the puff can be easily customized depending on how many stitches you make and leave on your hook before completing the stitch. Typically it is a grouping of three or more half-double crochets, but it can also be made with double crochets or treble crochets. Don’t forget to keep your tension light as it will help create the shape of the puff. Otherwise, if your tension is too tight, it will squish the puff. Don’t squish your Puff!

It’s so Puffy – Let’s get started!

Materials

• Yarn
• Crochet Hook
• Scissors
• Tapestry Needle

In the tutorial below I am using Mayflower Easy Care Classic (DK weight) yarn and a 4.5 mm hook.

As mentioned above, the puff stitch is super versatile and can be used in a variety of ways! The swatch instructions below are to show how to work the puff stitch and to showcase all its puffy glory! Check out the patterns below to see how the puff stitch can be customized within the pattern!

To start: Either foundation single crochet any odd number of stitches or chain any odd number of stitches plus one for your turning chain, turn, and single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across.

Step 1: Chain 1, Single Crochet in the first stitch. 

Note: Steps 2 – 4 are the Puff Stitch. 

Step 2: Yarn over and insert the hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through the stitch. You have three loops on the hook.

Step 3: *Yarn over and insert the hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through the stitch* two more times so that you have a total of seven loops on your hook.

Step 4: Yarn over and pull a loop through all loops on the hook.

Step 5: Repeat the Single Crochet and Puff Stitch (steps 2 – 4 above) across the row, ending on a Single Crochet. Turn.

Step 6: Single Crochet across.

Step 7: Chain 1, *Puff Stitch , Single Crochet* across. Turn.

Repeat steps 6 and 7 until your swatch has reached the desired height. Bind off and weave in ends.

Woohoo! You’ve completed a swatch using the Puff Stitch! 

Need to follow along instead? Use the video tutorial below.

Some free patterns that use the Puff Stitch

TLYarn Crafts designed a potholder that almost exclusively uses the puff stitch! This potholder is beginner friendly and is a unique hexagonal shape. It makes a great gift and can be customized to be larger and used as a trivet.

Daisy Farm Crafts has several blanket patterns on her blog that feature the Puff Stitch, all in different ways! The Colorful Puffs Baby Blanket is so fun and playful! 

I love beanies, and this puffy pattern is available in several different weights (Stitch and Hustle got it right when they said, “Happiness in a lightweight slouch hat for all seasons”).

The post How to Crochet the Puff Stitch (step-by-step photos!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Treble crochet, also called triple crochet, is the next tallest stitch after the double crochet. The height of each stitch makes treble crochet a great choice for quick projects. While each individual stitch may take longer to make, each row is tall, so you make a lot of progress row by row.

These tall stitches can also add visual interest to your projects. Since they are so much taller than other stitches, they give a beautiful lacy, open pattern to your work.

Learning how to crochet these stitches into the front of a post opens up a whole world of new patterns! Keep reading to learn how to crochet the front post treble crochet stitch.

Abbreviations

• CH(s): chain(s)
• TC: treble crochet
• FPTC: front post treble crochet
• YO: yarn over
• ST: stitch

How to Front Post Treble Crochet

Before you can FPTC, you’ll need to crochet a row. To begin, CH your desired number of stitches. CH 4 and turn your work.

Round 1: TC in each CH across. The CH 4 counts as your first ST in the row. To make your first TC, YO twice and insert your hook into the 5th CH. YO and pull through the CH. YO again and pull through 2 loops on your hook. YO and pull through 2 loops on your hook. YO and pull through the 2 remaining loops on your hook (see photos and captions below for a step-by-step breakdown of the TC ST). Repeat in the rest of the CHs. CH 4 and turn your work.

Round 2: Now that you know how to TC, all you have to learn is FPTC. Your first stitch in this round will be a normal TC. Then, you will work your remaining stitches into the post of the stitches in round 1 (FPTC). To do this, insert your hook from the front to the back of your work. Then, slip the hook back to the front. In the photos, you can see that the post is in front of your hook!

Repeat rounds 1-2 as desired (remember to CH 4 before turning to each new row)!

In the photo below, I used worsted weight yarn and a US I hook (5.5 mm). I repeated rounds 1-2 twice.

Applications of Front Post Treble Crochet

1. Cables! Simple, post stitches are the foundation of crochet cables. Once you’ve learned how to FPTC, you can apply the same technique to any of your other stitches. For example, you can work a double crochet into the front post of a stitch, creating a front post double crochet (FPDC). The only other technique you need to create cables is back post stitches, and they’re just as simple as front post stitches! To back post crochet, all you need to do is insert your hook in front of the stitch in the previous row, rather than behind it. This minute-long video from KnittingHelp.com walks you through a BPTC.
2. More complex stitches. Front and back post stitches are used as building blocks to form more complicated stitches like the alpine stitch, which you can learn in my Easy Step-by-Step Guide for the Alpine Stitch (with Photos).
3. Adding texture. FPTC raises the post of a stitch. This adds both pattern and texture to a project. You can mimic ribbing with FPTC, create patterns that resemble a basketweave, and, of course, work crochet cables.

Free Patterns with FPTC!

Crochet Easy Beginner Cable Blanket

Remember what I said about cables? Well, this is the perfect project for anyone looking to give them a try for the first time! This baby blanket pattern is absolutely gorgeous. While the pattern is simple, repeating just 2 rows, the final blanket’s cables make give a more complicated look.

You can find this pattern for free on the Sirin’s Crochet blog at this link here. There is also an ad-free version available for purchase on her Etsy account.

Diagonal Diamonds Woven Throw Crochet Pattern

If cables aren’t your cup of tea, there are plenty of other fun textures that you can create with FPTC! This next pattern, for another blanket, creates a stunning woven pattern. The raised stitches make for a cozy blanket, and its diamond pattern has a simultaneously modern and timeless look.

You can find the pattern on Mama in a Stitch’s blog at this link here. A printable, ad-free version of the pattern is also available for purchase on Etsy.

Red Heart Alpine Pocket Scarf

This cozy scarf keeps both your neck and hands warm! Find the pattern on the Moogly Blog at this link here. Perfect for the colder months, this scarf has a beautiful texture from the alpine stitch’s alternating front post stitches.

Meara Fisherman Sweater Crochet Pattern

Blankets and scarves aren’t your thing? Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered!

Check out this incredible cable sweater! This sweater is perfect for those cold winter months. Made with a wool and acrylic blend, the final product is soft and warm. Plus, the yarn helps the sweater drape beautifully and gives the cables great shape and detail! The pattern is available for free on the Hopeful Honey blog. Link here!

Now that you know how to FPTC, you have unlocked a whole new set of textured crochet patterns with endless possibilities—I hope you’re feeling inspired to go out and make something new!

The post Easy Step-By-Step Guide to the Front Post Treble Crochet Stitch appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Plus, this stitch is super simple! If you know how to single and double crochet, you already know everything needed to learn this stitch.

The alpine stitch is great for any project. I’ve seen it used for blankets, hats, sweaters, scarves, and more! Use this stitch to add texture and warmth.

The texture in this stitch comes from its front post stitches. These are made just like regular crochet stitches; however, they are made around previous stitches instead of being worked into the top “v.” This tutorial walks you through everything!

Materials

• Yarn
• Crochet Hook
• Scissors (for cutting yarn at the end)
• Tapestry Needle (for weaving in ends)

In the photos below, I am using worsted weight yarn from my stash. It is 100% acrylic yarn. The hook I am using is a 4.5 mm hook. If your stitches tend to be tight, I would recommend sizing up your hook (about 1-2 hook sizes or 0.5-1.0 mm). Feel free to experiment with different sized hooks and yarns, as well as different yarn types!

Before we begin, this stitch is also perfect for blending different colors together! I personally think that a series of rainbow yarns, pastel colors, or any gradient lends itself beautifully to this stitch. Pictured below is a rainbow swatch of the alpine stitch from Naztazia.com. Without further ado, the alpine stitch!

How to Crochet the Alpine Stitch

Abbreviations

• DC = double crochet
• SC = single crochet
• E-FPDC = extended front post double crochet

Check out this YouTube video by Crochet Me Lovely for a tutorial on the extended front post double crochet stitch. The video is beginner friendly and walks you through each step of the stitch. Once you’ve learned the E-FPDC, continue on to the alpine stitch tutorial below!

• Chain an even number of stitches.
• Row 1: DC in the fourth chain from your hook and in each stitch across. The stitches you skipped count as your first DC. Your total number of stitches will be 2 stitches less than your starting chain. Chain 1 and turn your work.

• Row 2: SC in each stitch across. You should have the same number of stitches as in row 1. Chain 2 and turn.

• Note: You will always chain twice to begin a DC or E-FPDC row. They count as your first stitch in the row.
• Row 3: (The chain 2 counts as a DC). In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC stitch below in Row 1. When you draw up the loop, make sure that it is just above your current row. This will keep your piece from curling. *In the next stitch, DC as normal on top of the SC in row 2. In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC from row 1* repeat from * to * across. Chain 1 and turn your work.

• Row 4: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn.

• Row 5: (The chain 2 counts as an E-FPDC). In the next stitch, DC as normal on top of the SC in row 4. *In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC in row 3. In the next stitch, DC on top of the SC row.* Repeat from * to * across. Chain 1 at the end of the row and turn.

• Row 6: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn.

• Row 7: *DC, then E-FPDC* across. Chain 1 and turn.

• Row 8: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn your work.

• Row 9: *E-FPDC, DC* across. Chain 1 and turn.

Continue following this pattern, alternating between SC and DC/E-FPDC rows, until your piece reaches your desired height.

That’s all there is to it! In the photos above, I chained 20 and had 18 stitches in each row. It can be really helpful to count at the end of every row for the alpine stitch. This way you don’t drop any stitches and your piece has nice straight edges.

Tips and Tricks!

• E-FPDC will always be worked into the double crochet from the row below. In the same vein, DC will always be worked into the SC row below.
• If the edges of your piece are not as straight as you’d like, add a border with a simple slip stitch or SC to straighten out the piece.
• There are many ways to crochet the alpine stitch. I find that this method is the simplest. However, you may want to explore other methods. Check out this article titled “How to Crochet Alpine Stitch in Two Ways” from Craft-Her for 2 more methods!

What to do if your piece is curling

To get a really nice flat piece with straight edges, it is key to make sure you bring up the yarn on the extended front post double crochet stitches. When those front post double crochet stitches are too tight, the alpine stitch has a tendency to curl. To avoid this curling, bring up a generous amount of yarn when you yarn over. Loosening your tension will help as well.

Of course, you can always try out a larger crochet hook if your piece is still curling. Using a larger hook will loosen up your stitches for you, so that you don’t have to worry about your tension!

If a larger hook does not help the curling either, you can try switching the front post double crochet stitches with front post treble crochet stitches. This stitch is longer and should help keep your piece flat. This minute-long video, Front Post Treble Crochet Technique, by Leisure Arts Inc on YouTube guides you through the stitch.

If all else fails, blocking your work will flatten out the piece. I’ve written about blocking acrylic yarn with steam. Check out this link to How to Block Acrylic the Easy Way (in 3 Simple Steps!) for more information and detailed instructions. Crocheting an edge or border along your piece is also a common fix for curling!

That’s all for today. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and go on to try out the alpine stitch for yourself—happy crocheting!

The post Easy Step-by-Step Guide for the Alpine Stitch (with Photos) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.