I am so excited to show you how to make this beautiful bookmark, a project that took me just 35 minutes to complete!

What I love most about this design is the combination of the stitches and texture. Depending on the color of yarn you choose, the bookmark can exude a variety of vibes—intellectual, delicate, or playful. It’s a versatile piece that can be tailored to your personal style or that of the lucky recipient.

In today’s digital age, where so much of our reading happens online, there is still something special about holding a physical book. Whether you are traveling, relaxing by the beach, or curled up in your living room with a cozy blanket and a cup of coffee, a good book is always a welcome companion. And what better way to mark your place than with a handcrafted bookmark like this? It’s a simple yet thoughtful accessory that adds a touch of charm and elegance to your reading experience.

This bookmark also makes a wonderful gift. Surprise your family or friends with one, and watch their faces light up. It’s a small gesture, but one that feels incredibly personal and meaningful.

The beauty of this project lies in its adaptability. The length and thickness of the bookmark can vary depending on the yarn you choose. At the end of this article, I’ll share a few examples of different types  of  yarns to inspire you.

Don’t worry if you are a beginner—this project is straightforward and easy to follow. The key is to pay attention to the symmetry on both sides, which ensures a polished and balanced final product. Once you get the hang of it, I’m confident you’ll find yourself making one, two, three… and before you know it, you’ll have the pattern memorized, crafting bookmarks effortlessly. How great is that?

For this tutorial, I have used mercerised yarn, which is known for its lustrous finish and durability. It adds an elegant touch to the bookmark, making it look and feel more luxurious.

Now, regarding the tassel—a detail that adds a touch of flair and functionality. I’ve used a key card to wrap the yarn, but a credit card works just as well. Here’s a little pro tip: after tying off the tassel and trimming the excess yarn, apply a tiny dab of clear  fabric glue to the knot. This not only secures it but also gives a neat and tidy finish.

And let’s not forget the beads! They are the perfect finishing touch. Whether you choose pearled, wooden, or glass beads, they’re widely available online or in craft stores. Pick a color that contrasts nicely with your yarn to make the bookmark pop!

Now, let’s dive into the tutorial and get started on making this charming piece. You are going to love it!

MATERIALS

100% mercerised cotton brown yarn

50 G = 125 M

2.5 mm crochet hook

Beads

Yarn needle

Fabric glue

Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS (US)

Ch chain

SC single crochet

DC double crochet

Sl St slip stitch

St(s) stitch(es)

(x sts) x total stitches in round

Rnd round

[…]x repeat stitches within brackets x times

Sk skip

PATTERN

51 ch

Rnd 1 :   sk 1 stitch. 1 sc (from 2nd stitch ) x 50 = 50

Rnd 2 – 3 :  ch 1, turn. (1 sc x 50)

Rnd 4 :  1 ch, turn. 1 sc in the 2nd stitch from the hook, *sk 1 st, 5 DC into the next st, sk 1                 

st, 1 sl st into the next st. Repeat from * all around the piece including the original chain base. Finish with a sc. Fasten off. Cut.

I managed to bring both threads to the back and tied them.

TASSEL:

Cut 15 inches of yarn. With the help of a regular credit card, place the piece of yarn in a horizontal position (as you see in the picture below on the left). Then take the ball of yarn and place the beginning of the thread in a vertical position, go around 16 times in this position (as you see in the picture below on the right).

Carefully remove the top right part creating a loop. Then remove the top left part of the thread passing it through the loop on the right (as you see in the picture on the left).  Pull and remove everything from the card.

Then cut 18 inches of yarn and pass it  around the superior part of the tassel making it like a “little head”. Make a couple of knots and  with the help of a yarn needle hide the extra thread through the center of the knot.

Next step, cut the edges and make sure they are aligned.

Now, take your yarn needle and thread the two strands that hold the small “head” through the hole of the bead, as shown in the picture below. Once the bead is in place, insert one of the threads into the final, central part of the bookmark. Tie two secure knots to anchor the bead. Ensure the knots are positioned on the back side of the bookmark for a clean, seamless look.

To secure the knots, apply a small dab of clear glue over the tight knot and let it sit for a few minutes to dry. Once the glue has set, trim any excess yarn for a neat finish.

You might notice that the edges of your bookmark are a bit curly—don’t worry! This is a common occurrence, and there’s a simple fix. Place your beautifully crafted bookmark between the folds of a bedsheet and gently press it with a warm iron on both sides. If you’d like, you can use spray starch for added stiffness, but I personally prefer the ironing method for a crisp, polished look.

And voilá!! All done!

Now, time to enjoy a good book with our new creation :)… bye bye …

Few examples using other types of yarns :

The post Crochet Bookmark appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

I’m thrilled to share with you a delightful and easy to make ornament that will add a festive touch to just about anywhere; whether it’s hanging from a backpack, door knobs, windows, brightening up your office or classroom, or, of course, taking pride of place on your Christmas tree.

What makes this ornament truly special is how it brings joy wherever it goes. I’ve gifted these in various colors to friends, family, and colleagues, and nothing warms my heart more than seeing the smiles they bring. It’s such a small gesture, yet it holds the power to spread so much happiness.

You only need two colors of yarn and a 3.5 mm crochet hook to get started. It’s a simple project, but the results are absolutely charming. I must confess, I’ve made so many of these during road trips while my husband was driving. Crocheting on the go has become one of my favorite ways to pass the time!

For fun, I decided to experiment with a 2.5 mm hook, and the result was adorable, albeit a bit smaller than I’d prefer. However, my daughter absolutely adored the miniature version—it just goes to show how versatile this little project can be

Whether you make these ornaments as gifts or to decorate your own space, they’re sure to bring a festive spirit and plenty of smiles. So grab your yarn, choose your favorite colors, and enjoy creating something that’s as fun to give as it is to make. Happy crocheting!

MATERIALS

Green yarn 100% mercerized #3

Red yarn 100% mercerized #3

3.5 crochet hook

Yarn needle

Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS (US)

Ch chain

SC single crochet

HDC half double crochet

Sl St slip stitch

St(s) stitch(es)

(x sts) x total stitches in round

Rnd round

[…]x repeat stitches within brackets x times

PATTERN

Green Yarn:

Slip knot

8 Ch; join to form a ring with a sl st in the 1st ch after the knot

Red Yarn:

Cut around 6 inches of red yarn and with the help of a yarn needle pass it through the spaces as you see in the picture. At the end make a nice bow. 

The post Christmas Ornaments – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

The bean stitch is quite easy to learn, so it’s perfect for beginner crocheters who are ready to branch out. All you’ll need to do is insert your hook into your next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Then repeat this step in the same stitch until you’ve got six loops on your hook, then yarn over one more time and pull through all the loops. Chain one to keep the stitch together.

Of course, every crocheter learns differently, so it’s great to have written instructions but also photo and video tutorials! Three of the most helpful bean stitch tutorials can be found here, here, and here!

1. Huckleberry Beanie

Our first pattern in the round-up is this color block Huckleberry Beanie, which is one item in a cozy two-part set. You can use gorgeous autumn colors like the designer, choose your favorite three colors, or even make the hat just one solid color if you don’t feel like changing yarns. The designer used a cotton yarn, but you can choose any soft worsted-weight yarn.

This is a great pattern for beginners because it uses only easy stitches, has a written and photo tutorial for the bean stitch, and includes tons of progress photos. The pattern is written for an adult small hat, but also includes instructions for size adjustments. And you can add a fun optional pom-pom!

2. Huckleberry Scarf

Here’s the matching Huckleberry Scarf. The color blocks look absolutely stunning as part of a scarf, and the best part is that it’s a super easy project. Just grab the same yarn you used for the beanie, and you’ll be set. Like the beanie pattern, this one includes a bean stitch tutorial and lots of progress photos. And gauge isn’t vital, so this is a very beginner-friendly pattern. Plus, you’ll look great and stay cozy in your matching set!

3. Michelle Beanie

The Michelle Beanie is the first part of another set by the same designer. This pattern uses the bean stitch more sparingly, spreading bean stitch clusters around the hat for a fun pop of texture. The beanie looks great in the solid pink chosen by the designer, and I think it’d also look amazing in an ombre colorway. So pick out your favorite size-four yarn and you’ll have a new hat in no time, especially because it only uses easy stitches.

4. Michelle Scarf

The matching Michelle Scarf will keep you warm all winter long! The pattern is great for when you just want to relax, because you just crochet the same four rows over and over until your scarf is as long as you want. And as always, CAAB Crochet has created a pattern that uses only simple stitches and is good for even beginner crocheters.

5. Crochet Coffee Bean Beanie

Let’s look at one more cozy winter set, this time designed by Megan of Left in Knots. She made her set a fun play on the bean stitch by giving it a coffee bean theme! The first item in the set is this Coffee Bean Beanie, which looks absolutely wonderful in this coffee-colored ombre Scarfie yarn. Of course, you can use any of your favorite size-5 bulky yarns. Best of all, the pattern only calls for easy stitches plus, of course, the bean stitch.

6. Coffee Bean Infinity Scarf

The second part of the coffee-themed set is this beautiful, cozy infinity scarf. It’s beginner-friendly and super quick to make, because you only need to know how to chain and do the bean stitch. It’s a very repetitive pattern, so it’s perfect for when you want to crochet while watching TV or talking with friends.

7. Crochet Coffee Bean Mittens

The third and final part of the coffee bean set are these very warm mittens. The main part of the mittens are made from a basic pattern, while the bean stitch adds texture to the cuffs. This is a perfect beginner pattern because it includes a video tutorial for the basic mitten shape, and because you’ll be an expert at the bean stitch by the time you’ve reached this part of the set! And you’ll look amazing in the matching set this winter!

8. Spring Bean Cowl

Of course, you don’t have to make all your wearables in matching sets! The Spring Bean Cowl stands on its own as a beautiful work of crochet art. If you use Lion Brand Mandala yarn like the designer did, or another DK-weight ombre yarn, your cowl will have a fun multicolor effect. The bean stitch gives the cowl warmth and a fun texture, while the tassels add a pop of style. Best of all, it’s a great pattern for beginner crocheters since it uses easy stitches.

9. Crochet Cotton Sun Hat

And the bean stitch isn’t just for winter wear! This sun hat uses the bean stitch to create gaps that will keep your head cool for a full summer beach day. You’ll need Bernat Softee Cotton yarn or a similar weight-three yarn, plus knowledge of basic stitches and the bean stitch. The hat is designed to fit the average adult woman, and the pattern includes both PDF written instructions and a video tutorial.

10. Spill The Beans Crochet Baby Blanket

Blankets are another item you can make to feature the bean stitch. This Spill the Beans baby blanket will look great with either a multicolored yarn plus a solid yarn, or with two solid yarns. The pattern calls for just basic stitches plus the bean stitch, and there are tons of progress photos, so this is a good beginner project. The designer suggests a heavy weight-3 yarn or a light weight-4 yarn, but gauge isn’t super important for this project, so you can pick any yarn you want. Also, the blanket is worked from the center outward like a granny square, so you can make it whatever size you want.

11. The Finley Throw

This throw uses gorgeous contrasting textures and only requires simple stitches plus the bean stitch. You’ll need your favorite worsted yarn—the designer used Lion Brand’s Pound of Love. There’s even a video tutorial included for the bean stitch, though make sure to follow the pattern and crochet into chain spaces instead of the bean stitch of the previous row.

12. Spill the Beans Easy Crochet Pillow

Other types of home decor, like this decorative pillow, look great with the bean stitch too. It’s a super easy project, and since it’s basically a granny square, you can make it whatever size you need to fit your pillow form. Just pick up your favorite worsted yarn, and you’ll have some new decor in no time!

13. Heavenly Textured Crochet Washcloth

Did you know you can even crochet your own washcloth? This one is particularly handy because it acts like a pocket for your soap. It uses the modified bean stitch, also known as the mini bean stitch, which is described in the pattern. You’ll want to use a cotton yarn like Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton for durability. There’s even a video tutorial, so this is a good beginner project.

14. Bean Stitch Pumpkin

With fall just around the corner, it’s time to start thinking of themed decor! The bean stitch gives this pumpkin a pop of texture. The pattern is easy to follow and includes lots of photos, so just pick up some worsted yarn and fiber-fill stuffing, and you’ll be well on your way to fall fun!

15. Crochet Flat Christmas Tree

Right after fall comes winter, so you might want to whip up some Christmas decorations. This Christmas tree can be used in a garland, as an ornament, as a gift tag, or in many other ways. You’ll need small amounts of worsted-weight yarn in your favorite festive colors, and the pattern only calls for simple stitches plus the bean stitch and puff stitch, which are described.

The post 15 Effortless Bean Stitch Crochet Patterns (free!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest crochet cushion ever!

This jumbo waffle pattern is the perfect solution to a couch that just needs a little more personality. My favorite part of it is the tiny butter pat that adds the cutest touch!

This pattern uses the aptly named waffle stitch (how convenient!) to create its gorgeous texture on the front and back, and is connected with a few rounds of single crochet and some seaming.

The waffle stitch is extremely thick, which makes it very suitable for blankets, but it can be more time consuming to crochet since each row is essentially worked twice.

However, since this waffle has very short rows and only a few of them, that makes it the perfect sampler for you to get some practice with the waffle stitch without committing to a larger project!

Tips for working with velvet yarn!

If you’ve never worked with jumbo velvet yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, velvet yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try.

• Velvet yarn, especially jumbo velvet yarn, sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Patterns designed for jumbo velvet yarn cannot be easily sized down to worsted weight yarn. This means that if you use worsted weight yarn for this pattern, your result may be different and it might not turn out well. For more information on this, check out my blog post on when and how to resize amigurumi!
• If your jumbo waffle fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This jumbo waffle is pillow sized and works as an adorable accent cushion for a child’s room. You can add all sorts of toppings in addition to the butter pat that I’ve added to this pattern. Using velvet makes this amigurumi even more plush, but you can make it palm sized by using sport or worsted weight yarn.

Yarn

• Chenille Home (jumbo weight)
  • (1 skein) of Mustard
• Wool-Ease Thick and Quick (super bulky)
  • (<1 skein) Fisherman
• DIYarn (worsted)
  • (<1 skein) Brown

Notions

• Size J 6.0mm Clover Amour Hook
• 10.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MR: magic ring
• sc: single crochet
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• st(s): stitch(es)
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Special Stitches

Waffle stitch: Click here for tutorial.

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Mustard, CC1 is Fisherman, and CC2 is Brown.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to crochet around a foundation chain
• Single crochet
• How to use safety eyes
• Invisible decrease
• How to stuff amigurumi tutorial
• How to sew amigurumi parts together tutorial
• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

1.5′ x 1.5′

WAFFLE (in MC. Work in turned rows. Waffle stitch tutorial can be found in special stitches.)

• Begin: Chain 20 (20 sts)
• Row 1: Beginning from the 3rd chain from the hook (counts as a dc), dc across. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Row 2: Dc in the first stitch. (Fpdc around the post of the next stitch. Dc in each of the next 2 stitches) x5. There should be 2 sts remaining. Fpdc, dc in last two stitches. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Row 3: Dc in first two stitches. (Fpdc around the next two stitches, dc in the next stitch) x5. There should be 1 st remaining. Dc in the last st. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Step 4: repeat rows 2-3 three more times (18 sts)
• Step 5: repeat row 2 (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off and weave in end. Make another identically, but do not finish off (fig.1).

Face details: On one of the waffle pieces, insert two safety eyes on the two middle fpdcs on the second row from the bottom. Using CC2, embroider a small “v” shape directly below and between the eyes (fig. 3).

Continuing from the second waffle piece, chain one and turn the work so that you’re crocheting down the left side of the square. Work scs all around the waffle to form a single crochet border.

Watch this video tutorial for visual guidance.

You should work 3 single crochet stitches for the height of every double crochet row. Work 3 single crochet stitches at each corner to form the corner. down the side, with 3 scs for each dc, with a total of around 80 sts total. Slst to the first stitch (fig. 1).

Join the two sides together either by cutting the working end of the yarn and whip stitching the two together, or crochet them together by working slip stitches between the two sides. Whichever way you prefer, stuff as you go.

BUTTER PAT (in CC1. See Special Stitches for FSC. Worked in turned rows.)

• Row 1: FSC 5, chain and turn (5 sts)
• Row 2-6: (5 rows) sc across, chain and turn (5 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Insert 10.0mm safety eyes on the 3rd row with one stitch between them. Using CC2, embroider a small “v” directly between and under the eyes (fig. 2). Using the tail, sew the butter pat to the top right corner of the waffle (fig. 3).

I hope you enjoyed making my Jumbo Waffle pattern! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The post Jumbo Waffle Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest donut ever!

Amigurumi foods are ever popular in the crochet world and donuts are one of those that seem to be particularly suited to being made in crochet form.

This donut may look complicated (especially with the ring structure), but I assure you that if you can make a ball, you can make this donut!

The entire outside of the donut is made in one piece, and then the inside is whip stitched together to form the tube. Honestly, this pattern is pretty fool proof!

One of my favorite things about this pattern is that it includes a small frosting detail around the edge, which is made through a simple BLO and FLO technique — not as hard as it looks!

Of course, you can customize this donut to whatever you like, or even leave it plain. I went with a classic glazed donut with pink frosting and rainbow sprinkles, but I can see a really fun array of donuts being made from all different colors!

My Inspiration and Design Process

I’ve been wanting to make a donut for a while and I’m so glad that I finally was able to create this pattern!

Crochet foods are so fun to me, and this donut is actually life sized, which makes it even more fun to make. The sprinkles are a really cute touch, but what I like most about this pattern is that it’s relatively quick and straightforward even when the results are anything but!

This pattern is much easier than you think, and soon you’ll be whipping up a whole dozen donuts in no time!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This cute and cuddly Donut pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! The frosting detail is the perfect extra touch, and you can customize the colors of the sprinkles and frosting to your favorite flavor of donut, or just leave it plain. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and you can adapt it to any size you want by changing the weight of the yarn!

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (Sport)
  • (<1 skein) Cotton Candy
    • pink
  • (<1 skein) Almond
    • brown
  • (scrap) Red
  • (scrap) Canary
    • yellow
  • (scrap) Peapod
    • light green
  • (scrap) Sky
    • light blue
  • (scrap) Seraphim
    • light purple

Notions

• Size D (3.25) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 5.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• BLO: back loop only
• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• yo: yarn over
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is Cotton Candy, CC1 is Almond, CC2 is Red, CC3 is Canary, CC4 is Peapod, CC5 is Sky, and CC6 is Seraphim.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

5″ x 5″

DONUT (Begin in MC. See Abbreviations for FSC.)

• Round 1: FSC 24 (24 sts)
• Round 2: slip stitch to join (counts as a stitch), sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x7 (32 sts)
• Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 4: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x7, 2 sc (48 sts)
• Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 6: 3 sc, inc (6 sc, inc) x7, 3 sc (64 sts)
• Round 7: (7 sc, inc) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 8: 4 sc, inc (8 sc, inc) x7, 4 sc (80 sts)
• Round 9: (9 sc, inc) x8 (88 sts)
• Round 10-13: (4 rnds) sc around (88 sts)
• Round 14: working FLO, sc around (88 sts)
• Change to CC1.
• Round 15: working in the back loops of round 13, sc around, and slip stitch in the first stitch. See below for picture tutorial. Insert 5.0mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11 with 4 stitches between them. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a V shaped mouth on round 11 between the eyes. Cut MC. (88 sts)

• Round 16-19: (4 rnds) sc around (88)
• Round 20: (9 sc, dec) x8 (80 sts)
• Round 21: (8 sc, dec) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 22: (7 sc, dec) x8 (64 sts)
• Round 23: (6 sc, dec) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 24: (5 sc, dec) x8 (48 sts)
• Round 25: (4 sc, dec) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 26: (3 sc, dec) x8 (32 sts)
• Round 27: (2 sc, dec) x8 (24 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a long tail of around 24″ (60 cm) for sewing. Using CC2, CC3, CC4, CC5, and CC6, embroider short lines randomly all over the frosting section.

• Using the tail end of the yarn, seam the donut shut in the middle with a whip stitch, stuffing firmly as you go. Finish off and weave in the end.

I hope you enjoyed making this Donut! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Amigurumi Donut Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest bread slice ever!

Crochet foods are such a classic and this slice of bread is insanely easy!

If you’ve never made amigurumi before, this is an especially good pattern to start with because the entire pattern is made in turned rows without ever using a magic ring or working in the round.

I have super helpful videos for how to crochet the dark brown border down the side of the toast, so don’t feel intimidated by that step!

It’s hard to tell in the photo, but this slice of bread is actually made up of two pieces that are crocheted together in the end, so it feels sturdy and not as fragile as if it were only one layer. It helps it have a little more thickness to it!

The super cute butter pat on top is an optional step if you feel comfortable with some extra sewing, and can add a whimsical touch. But don’t feel compelled to add the extra detail if you’re just starting out and want a quick win.

My Inspiration and Design Process

Crochet food is a must make once you get into the world of amigurumi, and this idea for a piece of toast with a mini pat of butter on it had been floating around my mind for a while.

I love the idea of a miniature amigurumi on top of a larger one and this piece of bread was the perfect place to incorporate that idea! I’ve also never made an amigurumi using turned rows (most of mine are worked in the round), but I think it gives it a unique look that I really wanted to try out.

Here are some other crochet foods that I’ve made in the past!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This adorable Bread & Butter amigurumi is a fun companion for meals or just for fun. The tiny butter piece sitting on top of the piece of bread is a cute touch and works great as a baby shower or baby gift. This pattern is beginner friendly and provides a great opportunity to learn how to crochet a border around turned rows.

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) of Almond
    • light brown
  • (<1 skein) of Sienna
    • dark brown
  • (<1 skein) of Custard
    • yellow

Notions

• Size D (3.25 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 4.0 mm and 5.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dc inc: double crochet increase (two double crochets in one stitch)
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• hdc: half double crochet
• hdc inc: half double crochet increase (two half double crochets in one stitch)
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• tr: treble stitch
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Special Stitches

Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.

Crocheting a HDC Border: click here for tutorial.

Foundation HDC: click here for tutorial.

FSC (Foundation Single Crochet): click here for tutorial.

Technical Notes

Bread & Butter

• Crochet in turned rows, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is Almond, CC1 is Sienna, and CC2 is Custard.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

5″ x 5″

BREAD (in MC. See Special Stitches for Foundation HDC (FHDC).)

• Row 1: 17 FHDC, chain and turn (17 sts)
• Row 2-11 (10 rows): 17 hdc, chain and turn (17 sts)
• Row 12: sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, slst, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc (17 sts)

Change to CC1. Chain and work hdcs down the left side of the bread. Place 3 hdcs for every 2 rows, and place 3 hdcs in the corner. See Special Stitches for a tutorial on how to crochet an hdc border. Continue in this fashion around the other 2 sides.

When you arrive at the right side of row 12, work these stitches on top of row 12: 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, slst to the first stitch in the border. See Abbreviations for meaning of asterisks. Finish off and weave in the end. Make another identically but do not finish off.

Face details: On one bread pice only, Using black embroidery thread, embroider a “V” shaped smile between rows 3 and 4 of the MC colored bread piece. Place 5.0mm safety eyes at the 4th row, counting from the bottom.

Match up the other bread piece. Stuff lightly if you wish, but I left it unstuffed. and insert the hook through both layers of the border and work single crochets all around, still using CC1, with both pieces held double. Slip stitch to the first stitch, finish off, and weave in end. See bottom of page for photo tutorial.

BUTTER (in CC2)

• Row 1: 5 FSC, chain and turn (5 sts)
• Row 2-3 (2 rows): 5 sc, chain and turn (5 sts)
• Row 4: 5 sc (5 sts)

We will now crochet a border around the small square we have made. Chain 1 and work along the left side of the square, working one sc in each row. Work 3 single crochets in the bottom left corner, 1 sc in each stitch along the bottom of the square, 3 single crochets in the bottom right corner, 1 sc in each row of the right side, 3 single crochets in the top right corner, and 1 sc in each stitch on top of row 4. Work 3 single crochets in the top left corner, slip stitch to the first stitch and invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Embroider a “V” shaped mouth at row 3 (counting from the bottom) of the butter piece. Insert 4.0mm safety eyes at row 4 of the butter piece, and then use the tail to sew the butter to the bread piece.

(optional) Using a lighter, blunt the back of the safety eyes that are exposed. Do this very carefully, by bending back the bread so that the safety eye backs are sticking out. Then, hold the lighter close enough that the back of the safety eyes soften, and then press them firmly against a glass or metal surface to cool it down. The backs of the safety eyes will then be blunt.

I hope you enjoyed making this Bread and Butter pattern! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Bread and Butter Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest ghost ever!

I love making cute decorations for Halloween, and this ghost was one of the first that I crocheted. I used a unique technique to work shell stitches along the bottom, to give this little ghost the cutest ruffle edge that’s reminiscent of a sheet or a classic ghost silhouette. (Snapchat, anyone?)

However, don’t be intimidated! I have a step by step photo tutorial on how to work the shell stitches, and as long as you can work a double crochet, then you can crochet this.

In general, this ghost is very beginner friendly — it’s basically just an extended sphere with some extra bits for arms. If you really want to make it easier, you can even omit the arms!

My Inspiration and Design Process

I love how cute and iconic ghosts are and I think that they’re the cutest symbol for Halloween! I wanted to make this design a chubby, chibi version of the classic ghost, hence why it’s so round!

I thought that adding a small ruffle at the bottom would be the cutest and simplest way to achieve a ruffle edge look. However, because the edge is worked onto the side of the ghost, he looks like he’s floating! (You can’t really see the bottom of the body underneath.) I think that’s the cutest feature and I’m really proud of myself for coming up with it!

Because of his round bottom, Boop even bobbles back and forth a little when you move him around, which can make him a really fun toy for kids.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Boop the Ghost is a spherical ghost with small limbs that balances on a round bottom. He stands on his own with a cute scalloped base. His adorable shape makes him perfect as a Halloween ornament, seasonal desk companion, or gift to a friend (or yourself!). He is very straightforward to make—if you can make a ball, then you can make this project!

Yarn

• Lion Brand Baby Soft Yarn (Sport)
  • (<1 skein) White

Notions

• Size C (2.5 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 4.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• ch: chain
• BLO: back loop only
• dc: double crochet
• dc inc: double crochet increase (two double crochets in one stitch)
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• hdc: half double crochet
• hdc inc: half double crochet increase (two half double crochets in one stitch)
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• scx : single crochet x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Special Stitches

Shell stitch: skip the next two stitches, and double crochet into the third stitch. Work four more double crochets into the same stitch, for a total of five double crochet stitches. Skip two stitches and slip stitch into the third stitch. Repeat.

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is White.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• Click here for a full list of amigurumi basics tutorials that I’ve created!

Final Size

4″ x 3″

BODY (in MC)

• Begin Chain 7.
• Round 1 Beginning in the second chain from hook, sc 12 all around the foundation chain. There will be 2 stitches in each chain stitch. For more information on crocheting around a foundation, see here (12 sts)
• Round 2 BLO inc x12 (24 sts)
• Round 3 (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 4 (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 5 (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 6 (sc6, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 7 -10 (4 rnds) sc all around (48 sts)
• Round 11 (sc7, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Place 4.0mm safety eyes between rnds 10 and 12 with 4 sts in between.
• Round 12-19 (8 rnds) sc all around (54 sts)
• Round 20 (sc8, inc) x6 (60 sts)
• Round 21-23 (3 rnds) sc all around (60 sts)
• Round 24 BLO sc all around (60 sts)
• Round 25 sc all around (60 sts)
• Round 26 (sc8, dec) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 27 (sc7, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 28 (sc4, dec) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 29 (sc3, dec) x8 (32 sts)
• Begin stuffing.
• Round 30 (sc2, dec) x8 (24 sts)
• Round 31 (sc, dec) x8 (16 sts)
• Round 32 dec x8 (8 sts)
• Finish stuffing.
• Round 33 dec x4 (4 sts)
• Cut yarn, leaving a short tail. Using a needle, thread the yarn through all 6 stitches in the last round, and pull it tight so the opening closes like a drawstring bag. Finish off.

ARMS (in MC)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3 sc all around (8 sts)
• Fold the tube flat, and sew across the top to stitch closed. Finish off and leave a short tail for sewing. Make another identically.

RUFFLE BOTTOM (in MC)

The ruffle bottom will be worked around Round 24 of the ghost body, which should have horizontal bars all around from the BLO stitches. Attach the yarn anywhere around the body, then shell stitch all around: skip two stitches, work a double crochet stitch into the third stitch. Work four more double crochet stitches into the same stitch for a total of five stitches. Skip the next two stitches and slip stitch into the third stitch. Repeat all the way around. Finish off and weave in the ends.

ASSEMBLY

1. Place the safety eyes between rows 10 and 11 (counting from the top), with 4 stitches in between.
2. Embroider the mouth directly below and between the eyes, on row 13. Create a V shape with two diagonal stitches, each the height of one row and one stitch wide.
3. Sew the arms to the left and right of the ghost, with the top of the arm between rows 15 and 18.

I hope you enjoyed making Boop the Ghost! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Boop the Crochet Ghost Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A Beginner Friendly, No-Sew Pattern!

Velvet yarn has been really popular in the amigurumi community recently and this super cute strawberry pattern is my one of my first designs with worsted weight velvet!

Working with velvet might be a little intimidating for beginners, but using worsted weight velvet is probably the best first step if you’re used to cotton and acrylic. This is because velvet yarn isn’t fluffy enough that the stitches are completely obscured, and worsted weight velvet is still thin enough that it’s easier to handle than blanket yarns or larger chenille yarns.

So if you’ve been thinking of velvet, this is a great chance to give it a go!

To top it off, this is a completely no sew pattern. The cute strawberry leaves on top are worked back loop only onto the last round of the strawberry, so you don’t have to worry about sewing any parts together. Truly the perfect quick and easy beginner friendly project!

My Inspiration and Design Process

One of my favorite kinds of amigurumi to make are foods! Crochet play foods are so fun to create, because of how realistic they can look. Jumbo sized foods are especially fun because of how cute they can look in an oversized form.

Because of my love for fluffy and squishable foods, I decided that my first project with this yarn would be a jumbo strawberry! I just love how it turned out and I think would make the perfect baby shower gift (if you embroidered on the eyes) or for a child just learning basic words around the kitchen.

If you’re interested in other amigurumi foods, check out the other patterns that I’ve designed below!

More Chunky Velvet Patterns

I’ve been on a jumbo amigurumi designing kick recently and have made a ton of new patterns that use jumbo velvet yarn!

I also rounded up all my favorite free jumbo amigurumi on the internet at this post here!

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This cute and cuddly Strawberry pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! The leaf detail is the perfect extra touch, and you can customize the colors of the strawberry and leaves to your favorite color. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and you can adapt it to any size you want by changing the weight of the yarn!

Yarn

• Bernat Baby Velvet Yarn (worsted weight)
  • (<1 skein) Ever After Pink
    • pink
  • (<1 skein) Bleached Aqua
    • green
  • (<1 skein) Snowy White
    • white

Notions

• Size G (4.0 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread
• embroidery needle

Abbreviations (US)

• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is pink, CC1 is green, and CC2 is white.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

Approx. 5″ x 4″ with worsted weight velvet.
To adjust the size of this amigurumi to be bigger or smaller, increase or decrease the weight of the yarn.

STRAWBERRY (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x5, 2 sc (36 sts) Round 7: sc around (36 sts)
• Round 8: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 9: sc around (42 sts)
• Round 10: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x5, 3 sc (48 sts)
• Round 11: sc around (48 sts)
• Round 12: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 13: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x5, 4 sc (60 sts)
• Round 14: (9 sc, inc) x6 (66 sts)
• Round 15: (10 sc, inc) x6 (72 sts)
• Round 16-22: (7 rnds) sc around (72 sts)
• Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19 (counting from the bottom), 4 stitches apart.
• Round 23: (10 sc, dec) x6 (66 sts)
• Round 24: (9 sc, dec) x6 (60 sts)
• Round 25: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x5, 4 sc (54 sts)
• Round 26: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 27: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)x5, 3 sc (42 sts)
• Round 28: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 29: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x5, 2 sc (30 sts)
• Round 30: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 31: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x5, sc (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 32: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 33: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Switch to light green. See Fig. 1.
• Round 34: (chain 9, and beginning in the second chain from the hook, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, slst to the next stitch) x6. See Fig. 2 and 3. (6 leaves)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.

FINISHING

After finishing the leaves (fig. 4), thread your tapestry needle and weave the needle in and out of the last round at the base of the leaves (fig. 5). After going all around, pull the yarn tight to cinch it shut (fig. 6). Insert your needle through the center of the ring of leaves at the top and pull it out anywhere else in the strawberry to secure. Cut the yarn.

Using black embroidery thread and an embroidery needle, sew a “V” shape directly between the eyes, on round 18 (counting from the bottom)

I hope you enjoyed making this Jumbo Strawberry! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

More like this:

• 20 Cutest FREE Crochet Baby Toy Patterns (for beginners!)
• 14 Quick and Easy Crochet Keychains for Bags (Stashbuster!)
• 12 Cutest Free Crochet Gnome Patterns (beginner friendly!)
• 9 Cutest Totoro Crochet Patterns (from Studio Ghibli!)
• 9 Fun Crochet Jellyfish Patterns!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The post Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

Another faux fur pattern!

After creating Fluffle the Bear last year, I was so excited at the amazing reception that she had. Faux fur yarn is an incredible way to make stuffed animals that don’t look crocheted at all, and are so fluffy!

Although faux fur yarn can be intimidating to work with, it’s 100% doable for advanced beginners who already have some experience making amigurumi. The best tip I can give is to feel for the stitches rather than looking for them. This means using your fingertips to pinch the crochet fabric in the round you’re working into and looking for gaps — each gap is the space inside a stitch. This will help you find where to insert your hook.

Apart from this strategy, I also recommend using stitch markers liberally and much more frequently that you would otherwise. Place stitch markers every six stitches, or even every three stitches. This way, you know that you should have a certain number of stitches between them, and even if you can’t feel all of them then you will still know how many stitches to account for.

Lastly, don’t sweat the small stuff! The best part about faux fur yarn is that you can’t see the stitches, which means you also can’t see the mistakes. As long as the head is vaguely spherical and the body and roughly cylindrical, you’re totally fine. I believe in you!

My Inspiration and Design Process

After I created Fluffle the Bear last year, my sister wanted me to make a miniature version of her super fluffy Siberian cat, Secret (purrfessional meowdel on Instagram here!).

Secret is a longhair cat with smoke colored fur, so I chose gray Go For Faux yarn to create her. The amigurumi I designed is standing on four legs, but she can also sit on her hind legs or lie down, just like the real cat!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Secret the Cat is a fluffy, adorable feline who can sit or stand. With an extra long tail and chubby head, she’ll be sure to win you over. Secret is made with fluffy faux fur yarn which can be difficult to work with at first, so having prior experience with fluffy yarn is recommended.

Yarn

• Lion Brand Go For Faux (super bulky)
  • (2 skeins) Husky

Notions

• Size M (9.0 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 10.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• pink embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• ch: chain
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. Use stitch markers abundantly to help you keep track of stitches as you go, since it’s very difficult to count them.
3. For all the difficulties that fluffy yarn comes with, it also comes with this major plus. That is, since you can’t see the stitches, no one can see your mistakes! If you end up having trouble counting exactly how many stitches there were so far, or you know you’re off by one but can’t tell where you went wrong, don’t worry. It happens to me, and as long as you make sure you’re in the right ballpark and approximately on track with the increases, then you should be fine.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

7.5″ x 6″ (not including tail)

HEAD

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5-8 (4 rnds) sc around (24 sts)
• Insert 10mm safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, about 2 inches apart (or 5 stitches).
• Round 9 (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 10 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 11 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.

BODY

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-7 (5 rnds) sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 8 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off, and weave in end. Sew the head to the top of the body.

FRONT LEGS

Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
Round 3 sc around (12 sts)
Round 4 dec x6 (6 sts)
Stuff lightly.
Round 5-6 (2 rnds) sc around (6 sts)
Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another leg identically. Sew the front legs to the seam between the head and the body, right next to each other.

BACK LEGS

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 sc around (12 sts)
• Round 4 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Stuff lightly.
• Round 5 sc around (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another leg identically. Note that the only difference between the back legs and the front legs is that the back legs are are little shorter. Sew the back legs to the left and right of the bottom of the body.

EARS

• Round 1 4 sc in MR (4 sts)
• Round 2 (sc, inc) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 3 (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 4 sc around (8 sts)
• Do not stuff. Fold in half and sew across the opening. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the top of the head, at an angle to the left and right.

TAIL

• Row 1 chain 21, turn (20 sts)
• Row 2 20 sc (20 sts)
• Slip stitch to the bottom of the body, finish off, and weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY

Using pink embroidery thread, embroider a triangle nose directly between the eyes.

I hope you enjoyed making Secret the Fluffy Cat! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest ice cream cone ever!

This adorable ice cream cone topped with a polar bear head fits in the palm of your hand and is simply precious.

This pattern can be adapted to any kind of bear you want! I dreamed of creating a whole set of Neapolitan Ice Cream Bears — I think it would be such a cute set — but you can make them in any color you like. I can imagine amazing variations for any of my favorite flavors, matcha, coffee, and chocolate, but you can also make a brown bear, grizzly bear, panda bear, or care bear!

It’s extremely beginner friendly and quick to make, even faster than an average amigurumi because there aren’t any limbs to create. If you’ve never made a teddy bear before and just want to dip your toes in, this is the perfect option.

My Inspiration and Design Process

Teddy bears are some of my favorite projects to make (as evidenced by the amount of designs I’ve created), but I wanted to make a fun, summery twist on the classic polar bear!

The idea of an ice cream cone with a cute teddy bear head in place of the scoop of ice cream came to me one day and I was immediately obsessed with it. I think ice cream cones are such an iconic image, but I love that the simple addition of two ears and a muzzle transforms it into an amazing food animal hybrid.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This Ice Cream Bear pattern is a super cute beginner friendly pattern. It’s pretty quick to work up since there are only two main pieces, and faster than creating an entire animal! The ruffle around the base of the ice cream scoop is also super simple to create and a fun technique to learn.

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Almond
    • Light brown

Notions

• Size D (3.25 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 4.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• BLO: back loop only
• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dc inc: double crochet increase (two double crochets in one stitch)
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• hdc: half double crochet
• hdc inc: half double crochet increase (two half double crochets in one stitch)
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Special Stitches

Shell stitch: Skip the next stitch, then work 5 dcs into the next stitch after that. Skip next stitch, and slip stitch into the stitch after it. Repeat.

Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is White, and the CC is Almond.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

3″ x 2″

Head (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7 (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-14 (7 rnds) sc around (42 sts)
• Attach 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, 7 stitches apart.
• Round 15 BLO, (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 16 (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 17 (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 18 (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 19 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 20 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end.

RUFFLE (see special stitches for shell stitch)

Working into the back loops in round 15 of the head, attach yarn at any point. Skip a stitch and work 5 dcs into the 2nd stitch. Skip another stitch and slip stitch into the next stitch. Continue working shell stitches all around for a total of 7 shell stitches. Weave in end.

CONE (in CC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4-6 (3 rnds) sc around (18 sts)
• Round 7 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 8-11 (4 rnds) sc around (24 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff. Sew the cone to the head, making sure that the ruffle from round 15 is facing the cone.

EARS (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 sc around (18 sts)
• Flatten the ears and sew in a running stitch across to seam shut. Bend the ears into a cup form and sew between rounds 3 and 6 on top of the head, directly to either side.

MUZZLE (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Embroider nose in a “T” shape in the center of the muzzle. (Method 2 in this tutorial.) Sew the muzzle to the head between rounds 6 and 10, with the top of the muzzle directly between the eyes.

I hope you enjoyed making this Ice Cream Bear! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

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