Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest low-sew lazy teddy bear with endless sweater options!

I’m in love with teddy bears, but especially low-sew teddy bears! After creating my Donut Teddy pattern, I was obsessed with the way I designed the ears to be worked in the round as part of the head. With Snuggles the Lazy Bear, I also worked the tail into the body as an adorable puff stitch.

I created this bear because I’ve been dreaming about making a cute teddy bear in a lying down posture, and this was the result! It took a while to get the perfect egg-shaped body that I wanted, but I loved how perfectly rotund it looked in the end.

I also wanted this teddy bear to be wearing a cute sweater, which I worked into the body as a series of simple color changes. (If this is new to you, scroll down for a video tutorial!)

I came up with a basic striped sweater, as well as a festive Christmas sweater variation! I love that it’s so easy to use this pattern as a blank canvas to create your own sweater. One of my testers came up with three different variations in just a few days!

The main pattern instructs you how to make the brown bear with the striped sweater, but if you want to make the Polar Bear in a Christmas Sweater variant, just follow the main pattern with a few adjustments here.

Tips for working this pattern!

This is a great pattern for advanced beginners because it’s a simple and short pattern, but the low-sew techniques you’ll learn are a great addition to your amigurumi toolbox.

One of the biggest techniques used in this pattern is changing colors, because you’ll need to do so multiple times to create either of the sweater variants. (If you dislike color changes or just don’t feel ready yet, you can always just omit the sweater and continue onwards in the main color!)

Here’s a quick video tutorial as well as a great blog post here all about changing color and my personal favorite method.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

Technical Notes

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

Snuggles the Lazy Bear is a sweet low-sew amigurumi project of a teddy bear lying down. It uses clever no- sew techniques to form the ears and tail, so you only have to do a minimal amount of seaming at the end. You can customize the color change sweater to any design or color scheme you like! The Polar Bear with Christmas Sweater variation is included in this pattern for inspiration.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Hobbii Amigo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Dark Beige (brown)
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Dusty Green (green)
  • (scrap) Sand (beige)

For Polar Bear variation, use only Hobbii Amigo White and Christmas Red.

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• embroidery needle
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• WS: wrong side
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times
• *x,y*: work x and y stitches between asterisks all in the same stitch

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down. For help with how to stuff or getting rid of holes, click here!
4. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial
• How to crochet a puff stitch: click here for tutorial.

Final Size

4″ x 3″

The Pattern

BODY (in beige. See Special Stitches for … abbreviation.)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Switch to brown.
• Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 6: sc around (24 sts)
• Rnd 7: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 8: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Rnd 9-12 (4 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Rnd 13: Begin by working 4 sc. Next, start working on the ear below.
• Ear: Working in the FLO, work dc, tr in the same st. In the next st, work 2 tr in the same st. In the next st, work tr, dc in the same st.
• Resume working through both the front and back loops. Work 5 scs.
• Work a second ear in the same method as before.
• Resume working in both the front and back loops. Work 21 remaining scs. After finishing this round, there should be unworked back loops behind the two ears (see fig. 2). There should be 42 total sts in this rnd, as well as 6 unworked back loops.

• Rnd 14: Sc around.
• When you reach the ears, work into the back loops left unworked from the previous rnd. There should be 3 unworked back loops per ear.
• After working into the unworked back loops of the ears, insert the hook into both loops of the first st after the ear and work 13 more scs in the round.
• At this point you should be at the bottom of the head, opposite the ears. This is the new beginning of round (see fig. 3). (36 sts)
• Insert two 4.0mm safety eyes between rnds 5-6, with 5 sts between the two eyes (see fig. 3). Using brown embroidery thread and an embroidery needle, embroider a T shaped nose. The top of the T should be between rnds 2-3, extending 3 sts across (fig. 4). See Special Stitches for a tutorial.

• Rnd 15: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• (For the Polar Bear variation, skip down to “POLAR BEAR” here for rnds 16-24, then come back here to finish the body.)
• For the main pattern, switch to white.
• Rnd 16: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 17: sc around (48 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 18: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 19: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 20: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 21: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 22: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 23: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 24: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to brown.
• Rnd 25-28 (4 rnds): sc around (54 sts)
• Rnd 29: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Rnd 30: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Rnd 31: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Rnd 32: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 33: work 15 single crochets. Work one puff stitch (see Special Stitches for a tutorial). See fig. 5. Then, work the remaining 14 single crochet stitches. (30 sts)
• Rnd 34: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 35: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Rnd 36: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 37: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off in the round. Your work should look like fig. 6 and 7.

ARMS (in brown, make two)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts) Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 6: sc around (12 sts)
• Switch to green.
• Rnd 7: sc around (12 sts)
• Switch to white.
• Rnd 8: sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Fold the arm flat and insert the hook through both sides of the opening (fig. 8). Slip stitch 6 sts across to seam the arm shut. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Your arm should now look like figure 8. Make another identically.

LEGS (in brown, make two)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 6-8 (3 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Fold the leg flat and slip stitch 6 sts across to seam shut, in the same way as the arms. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. You should now have 2 arms and 2 legs (fig. 10).

ASSEMBLY

Sew the two arms to the body at round 16. The arms should be sewn vertically to the body, with the top of each arm about 4 stitches below the left and right ears. See figures 10 and 11 for placement.

Sew the two legs to the body between rnds 26-27. The legs should be sewn vertically to the body, with the top of each leg roughly aligned with the arm. See figures 10 and 11 for placement.

Polar Bear with Christmas Sweater Variation

To make the polar bear version of this pattern, follow the main pattern using the alterations below:

HEAD: Make head using white yarn only, do not color change for the muzzle.

BODY (continue in white, see fig. 14 for colorwork chart)

• After rnd 15, switch to red.
• Rnd 16: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Switch to white.
  Rnd 17: sc around (48 sts)
• Switch to red.
  Rnd 18: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
  
• Rnd 19: sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to red.
  
• Rnd 20-22 (3 rnds): sc around (54 sts)
• Switch to white.
  
• Rnd 23: sc around (54 sts)
  
• Switch to red.
  
• Rnd 24: sc around (54 sts)
  
• Switch to white. Continue with the remainder of the pattern.
• After finishing the body, use white yarn to embroider 6 point stars (you can follow this embroidery tutorial). The stars should be about 2 stitches wide with 3 stitches between each star.

ARMS (in white)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Switch to red.
• Rnd 6-8 (3 rnds): sc around
• Stuff lightly. Fold the arm flat and slip stitch 6 sts across to seam the arms shut.

LEGS: Make legs using white yarn.

See fig. 15 for finished project.

The post Snuggles the Lazy Bear – Crochet Bear – Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration. To make this doll, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest pumpkin ever!

Sweater weather and cozy season is upon us, and with the fall chill out comes all of our delightful fall decor!

If you’re like me, that includes tiny pumpkins, fleece blankets, and flannels. I love a classic fall pumpkin, but this year I wanted to combine my love of teddy bears with the fall festivities. The result was this utterly adorable teddy bear pumpkin!

If you follow me on Instagram, you’ll remember that this pattern was originally designed for the Spooky Cute Crochet Along I hosted with Curious Papaya, a.p.i.l.y, and Tiny Friends Crochet.

This pumpkin bear accompanies a previous pumpkin spin off that I made last year, Secret the Pumpkitten! However, this pumpkin bear is about half the size and has its own unique touches. Take a look below!

A Beginner Friendly Pumpkin!

One of my favorite parts of the pumpkin designs that I’ve made is that the pumpkin section is so beginner friendly! The entire pumpkin is essentially a ball with a simple sewing technique to create the grooves.

If it sounds at all intimidating to you, never fear! Along with the step-by-step photos I include in all my patterns, I made a quick video tutorial to help you out with this step!

I love this pumpkin bear so much because it’s the perfect twist on the classic Halloween pumpkin and small enough that it can double as a keychain or desk companion. I hope you love it as much as I do!

Spooky Cute Crochet-Along

This pattern was featured as week 2 of the #SpookyCuteCAL on Instagram! I was so excited that thousands of you downloaded the pattern and at how many finished pumpkin bears I saw on Instagram.

I wanted to include a few of my favorites here to celebrate how creative and talented everyone who participated was!

The Pattern

• To make this pattern, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This Pumpkin Bear is an adorable amigurumi of a teddy bear sitting with his head and limbs sticking out of a pumpkin. Although this pattern looks complicated, it’s actually very straightforward—if you can make a ball, then you can make this pattern! He is perfect decor for the fall, or as holiday decorations for Halloween or Thanksgiving.

Final Dimensions: 2″ x 3″

Yarn

Notions

• 3.25mm hook
• 4.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Color Coding

For this pattern, MC is light brown, CC1 is orange, CC2 is white, CC3 is dark brown, and CC4 is green.

PUMPKIN (in MC, see Technical Notes for color coding)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Rounds 8-13 (6 rnds): sc around (42 sts)
• Round 14: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 15: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 18: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail of around 2 feet. There will be a gap in the middle (fig. 1 and 2).

Make a well in the center of the pumpkin by pushing your finger all the way to the bottom through the stuffing.

Click here for a video tutorial. Using a tapestry needle, push the tail end of the yarn through the middle and out the bottom of the pumpkin. Then, draw the needle up and over the outside of the pumpkin and push it through the base again tightly and secure, creating a groove in the side of the pumpkin. Repeat 5 more times evenly around the pumpkin. Finish off by tying a knot and weaving in the end to secure (fig 2 and 3).

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7-10 (4 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Place 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 7-8, four stitches apart.
• Round 11: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 12: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 14: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 15: dec x6 (6 sts)

Finish off (fig. 4) and weave in end. Don’t sew to the pumpkin yet.

MUZZLE (in CC2)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (8 sts)
• Invisible finish off, and embroider a nose (using method 2 from this link here). See fig. 5 for completed muzzle. Stuff lightly (with tail of yarn) and sew to the head between rounds 7 and 10, counting from the top. Now your project should look like fig. 6 (minus the limbs and ears).

PUMPKIN TOP (in CC1)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 7).

PUMPKIN STEM (in CC3)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2-3 (2 rnds): sc around (6 sts)
• Do not stuff. Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 7). Sew to the center of the pumpkin top (see fig. 10 for reference).

PUMPKIN LEAF (in CC4)

• Begin: Chain 4
• Round 1: Beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc, hdc, then work 4 dcs in the last chain. Continue to work around the other side of the chain and work an hdc and sc on the way back. Slst to the first stitch in the round.
  • If you’re confused about this step or don’t understand what “second chain from the hook means, check out this blog post here where I break it all down with a photo and video tutorial!

Invisible finish off and weave in end (fig. 7). Use the tail end of the yarn for sewing. See fig. 8 for a crochet chart. Sew the leaf to the right of the stem (fig. 10).

Sew the pumpkin top with stem and leaf to the top of the head (fig. 9).

EARS (in MC, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Do not stuff. Flatten and sew across the opening to seam closed, and leave a short tail for sewing (fig. 9). Make another identically. Then, sew both ears to the top of the head in a curve between the 2nd and 7th rounds from the top of the head, to the right and left of the pumpkin top (fig. 10). Sew head to the pumpkin.

ARMS (in MC, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly. (I use the tail end of the yarn to stuff.)
• Round 5: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Round 6: sc around (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 11). Make another identically. Sew to the seam between the head and the pumpkin, on the left and right sides of the head.

LEGS (in MC, make two)

• Begin: Chain 4. Beginning in the 2nd chain from hook, single crochet. Single crochet into the next chain, then work two single crochets in the last chain. Continue working on the other side of the chain and work two more single crochets into each chain (for help working around a foundation chain see here). See fig. 12 for visual representation. (6 sts)
• Round 1: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 2-3 (2 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly.
• Round 4: (sc, dec) x4 (8 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically (fig. 13). Sew between rounds 8-12 of the pumpkin (counting from the bottom). You’re all done (fig. 14)!

I hope you like this Pumpkin Bear! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Pumpkin Bear Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest donut ever!

Amigurumi foods are ever popular in the crochet world and donuts are one of those that seem to be particularly suited to being made in crochet form.

This donut may look complicated (especially with the ring structure), but I assure you that if you can make a ball, you can make this donut!

The entire outside of the donut is made in one piece, and then the inside is whip stitched together to form the tube. Honestly, this pattern is pretty fool proof!

One of my favorite things about this pattern is that it includes a small frosting detail around the edge, which is made through a simple BLO and FLO technique — not as hard as it looks!

Of course, you can customize this donut to whatever you like, or even leave it plain. I went with a classic glazed donut with pink frosting and rainbow sprinkles, but I can see a really fun array of donuts being made from all different colors!

My Inspiration and Design Process

I’ve been wanting to make a donut for a while and I’m so glad that I finally was able to create this pattern!

Crochet foods are so fun to me, and this donut is actually life sized, which makes it even more fun to make. The sprinkles are a really cute touch, but what I like most about this pattern is that it’s relatively quick and straightforward even when the results are anything but!

This pattern is much easier than you think, and soon you’ll be whipping up a whole dozen donuts in no time!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This cute and cuddly Donut pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! The frosting detail is the perfect extra touch, and you can customize the colors of the sprinkles and frosting to your favorite flavor of donut, or just leave it plain. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and you can adapt it to any size you want by changing the weight of the yarn!

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (Sport)
  • (<1 skein) Cotton Candy
    • pink
  • (<1 skein) Almond
    • brown
  • (scrap) Red
  • (scrap) Canary
    • yellow
  • (scrap) Peapod
    • light green
  • (scrap) Sky
    • light blue
  • (scrap) Seraphim
    • light purple

Notions

• Size D (3.25) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 5.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• BLO: back loop only
• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• yo: yarn over
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is Cotton Candy, CC1 is Almond, CC2 is Red, CC3 is Canary, CC4 is Peapod, CC5 is Sky, and CC6 is Seraphim.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

5″ x 5″

DONUT (Begin in MC. See Abbreviations for FSC.)

• Round 1: FSC 24 (24 sts)
• Round 2: slip stitch to join (counts as a stitch), sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x7 (32 sts)
• Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 4: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x7, 2 sc (48 sts)
• Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 6: 3 sc, inc (6 sc, inc) x7, 3 sc (64 sts)
• Round 7: (7 sc, inc) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 8: 4 sc, inc (8 sc, inc) x7, 4 sc (80 sts)
• Round 9: (9 sc, inc) x8 (88 sts)
• Round 10-13: (4 rnds) sc around (88 sts)
• Round 14: working FLO, sc around (88 sts)
• Change to CC1.
• Round 15: working in the back loops of round 13, sc around, and slip stitch in the first stitch. See below for picture tutorial. Insert 5.0mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11 with 4 stitches between them. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a V shaped mouth on round 11 between the eyes. Cut MC. (88 sts)

• Round 16-19: (4 rnds) sc around (88)
• Round 20: (9 sc, dec) x8 (80 sts)
• Round 21: (8 sc, dec) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 22: (7 sc, dec) x8 (64 sts)
• Round 23: (6 sc, dec) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 24: (5 sc, dec) x8 (48 sts)
• Round 25: (4 sc, dec) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 26: (3 sc, dec) x8 (32 sts)
• Round 27: (2 sc, dec) x8 (24 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a long tail of around 24″ (60 cm) for sewing. Using CC2, CC3, CC4, CC5, and CC6, embroider short lines randomly all over the frosting section.

• Using the tail end of the yarn, seam the donut shut in the middle with a whip stitch, stuffing firmly as you go. Finish off and weave in the end.

I hope you enjoyed making this Donut! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Amigurumi Donut Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A Beginner Friendly, No-Sew Pattern!

Velvet yarn has been really popular in the amigurumi community recently and this super cute strawberry pattern is my one of my first designs with worsted weight velvet!

Working with velvet might be a little intimidating for beginners, but using worsted weight velvet is probably the best first step if you’re used to cotton and acrylic. This is because velvet yarn isn’t fluffy enough that the stitches are completely obscured, and worsted weight velvet is still thin enough that it’s easier to handle than blanket yarns or larger chenille yarns.

So if you’ve been thinking of velvet, this is a great chance to give it a go!

To top it off, this is a completely no sew pattern. The cute strawberry leaves on top are worked back loop only onto the last round of the strawberry, so you don’t have to worry about sewing any parts together. Truly the perfect quick and easy beginner friendly project!

My Inspiration and Design Process

One of my favorite kinds of amigurumi to make are foods! Crochet play foods are so fun to create, because of how realistic they can look. Jumbo sized foods are especially fun because of how cute they can look in an oversized form.

Because of my love for fluffy and squishable foods, I decided that my first project with this yarn would be a jumbo strawberry! I just love how it turned out and I think would make the perfect baby shower gift (if you embroidered on the eyes) or for a child just learning basic words around the kitchen.

If you’re interested in other amigurumi foods, check out the other patterns that I’ve designed below!

More Chunky Velvet Patterns

I’ve been on a jumbo amigurumi designing kick recently and have made a ton of new patterns that use jumbo velvet yarn!

I also rounded up all my favorite free jumbo amigurumi on the internet at this post here!

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This cute and cuddly Strawberry pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! The leaf detail is the perfect extra touch, and you can customize the colors of the strawberry and leaves to your favorite color. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and you can adapt it to any size you want by changing the weight of the yarn!

Yarn

• Bernat Baby Velvet Yarn (worsted weight)
  • (<1 skein) Ever After Pink
    • pink
  • (<1 skein) Bleached Aqua
    • green
  • (<1 skein) Snowy White
    • white

Notions

• Size G (4.0 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread
• embroidery needle

Abbreviations (US)

• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is pink, CC1 is green, and CC2 is white.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

Approx. 5″ x 4″ with worsted weight velvet.
To adjust the size of this amigurumi to be bigger or smaller, increase or decrease the weight of the yarn.

STRAWBERRY (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x5, 2 sc (36 sts) Round 7: sc around (36 sts)
• Round 8: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 9: sc around (42 sts)
• Round 10: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x5, 3 sc (48 sts)
• Round 11: sc around (48 sts)
• Round 12: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 13: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x5, 4 sc (60 sts)
• Round 14: (9 sc, inc) x6 (66 sts)
• Round 15: (10 sc, inc) x6 (72 sts)
• Round 16-22: (7 rnds) sc around (72 sts)
• Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19 (counting from the bottom), 4 stitches apart.
• Round 23: (10 sc, dec) x6 (66 sts)
• Round 24: (9 sc, dec) x6 (60 sts)
• Round 25: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x5, 4 sc (54 sts)
• Round 26: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 27: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)x5, 3 sc (42 sts)
• Round 28: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 29: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x5, 2 sc (30 sts)
• Round 30: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 31: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x5, sc (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 32: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 33: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Switch to light green. See Fig. 1.
• Round 34: (chain 9, and beginning in the second chain from the hook, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, slst to the next stitch) x6. See Fig. 2 and 3. (6 leaves)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.

FINISHING

After finishing the leaves (fig. 4), thread your tapestry needle and weave the needle in and out of the last round at the base of the leaves (fig. 5). After going all around, pull the yarn tight to cinch it shut (fig. 6). Insert your needle through the center of the ring of leaves at the top and pull it out anywhere else in the strawberry to secure. Cut the yarn.

Using black embroidery thread and an embroidery needle, sew a “V” shape directly between the eyes, on round 18 (counting from the bottom)

I hope you enjoyed making this Jumbo Strawberry! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

More like this:

• 20 Cutest FREE Crochet Baby Toy Patterns (for beginners!)
• 14 Quick and Easy Crochet Keychains for Bags (Stashbuster!)
• 12 Cutest Free Crochet Gnome Patterns (beginner friendly!)
• 9 Cutest Totoro Crochet Patterns (from Studio Ghibli!)
• 9 Fun Crochet Jellyfish Patterns!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The post Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest ice cream cone ever!

This adorable ice cream cone topped with a polar bear head fits in the palm of your hand and is simply precious.

This pattern can be adapted to any kind of bear you want! I dreamed of creating a whole set of Neapolitan Ice Cream Bears — I think it would be such a cute set — but you can make them in any color you like. I can imagine amazing variations for any of my favorite flavors, matcha, coffee, and chocolate, but you can also make a brown bear, grizzly bear, panda bear, or care bear!

It’s extremely beginner friendly and quick to make, even faster than an average amigurumi because there aren’t any limbs to create. If you’ve never made a teddy bear before and just want to dip your toes in, this is the perfect option.

My Inspiration and Design Process

Teddy bears are some of my favorite projects to make (as evidenced by the amount of designs I’ve created), but I wanted to make a fun, summery twist on the classic polar bear!

The idea of an ice cream cone with a cute teddy bear head in place of the scoop of ice cream came to me one day and I was immediately obsessed with it. I think ice cream cones are such an iconic image, but I love that the simple addition of two ears and a muzzle transforms it into an amazing food animal hybrid.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This Ice Cream Bear pattern is a super cute beginner friendly pattern. It’s pretty quick to work up since there are only two main pieces, and faster than creating an entire animal! The ruffle around the base of the ice cream scoop is also super simple to create and a fun technique to learn.

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Almond
    • Light brown

Notions

• Size D (3.25 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 4.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• BLO: back loop only
• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dc inc: double crochet increase (two double crochets in one stitch)
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• hdc: half double crochet
• hdc inc: half double crochet increase (two half double crochets in one stitch)
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Special Stitches

Shell stitch: Skip the next stitch, then work 5 dcs into the next stitch after that. Skip next stitch, and slip stitch into the stitch after it. Repeat.

Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is White, and the CC is Almond.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

3″ x 2″

Head (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7 (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-14 (7 rnds) sc around (42 sts)
• Attach 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, 7 stitches apart.
• Round 15 BLO, (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 16 (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 17 (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 18 (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 19 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 20 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end.

RUFFLE (see special stitches for shell stitch)

Working into the back loops in round 15 of the head, attach yarn at any point. Skip a stitch and work 5 dcs into the 2nd stitch. Skip another stitch and slip stitch into the next stitch. Continue working shell stitches all around for a total of 7 shell stitches. Weave in end.

CONE (in CC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4-6 (3 rnds) sc around (18 sts)
• Round 7 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 8-11 (4 rnds) sc around (24 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff. Sew the cone to the head, making sure that the ruffle from round 15 is facing the cone.

EARS (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 sc around (18 sts)
• Flatten the ears and sew in a running stitch across to seam shut. Bend the ears into a cup form and sew between rounds 3 and 6 on top of the head, directly to either side.

MUZZLE (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Embroider nose in a “T” shape in the center of the muzzle. (Method 2 in this tutorial.) Sew the muzzle to the head between rounds 6 and 10, with the top of the muzzle directly between the eyes.

I hope you enjoyed making this Ice Cream Bear! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest basket ever!

Crochet baskets might seem a little intimidating at first, but they are some of the easiest and fastest crochet projects to make, not to mention completely practical.

Baskets are simply made by creating a circle and then working continuous rounds around it. Using extremely thick yarn helps the basket stand up more stiffly to create edges.

This basket can be whipped up in just an hour or two, so they make amazing house warming or baby shower gifts. Best of all, they look polished and completely adorable, so it doesn’t look like it was a rush job!

The design and inspiration

Basket designs abound in the crochet world and I’ve always wanted to make one of my own! Of course, I had to put my own cute spin on it by adapting a classic round basket shape into a little teddy bear shape.

The basket is made by holding two strands of super bulky yarn together, so that the basket works up extremely quickly. You do not have to use my method unless you want to achieve my dimensions, but it’s perfectly okay to hold together two strands of worsted, just one strand of bulky, or even sport weight yarn for a tiny basket. As a fun experiment, you can make one basket from different weights of yarn and stack them all together!

The top edging of the basket was inspired by my heart cactus pattern, with the crab stitch edging that adds an extra touch of sophistication to your basket.

I decided on a classic teddy bear face for my basket, but you can adapt the basket to be any animal — or color — you wish.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

I hope you enjoyed making this Bear Basket! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest succulent ever!

Amigurumi cacti are almost a tradition at this point. They’re a huge crowd favorite because of the recent house plant craze (thanks COVID) but also because they tend to be easy and beginner friendly projects!

This one might not be the best choice if you’ve never made an amigurumi before, but I think it’s a cute twist on all the traditional succulent patterns out there!

I don’t really have a green thumb (I recall killing a tiny cactus in a pot that looks like this one some years ago) but when visiting one of my friends I noticed the most adorable succulent that she informed me was a hoya kerii. Its leaves are heart shaped, and you can even find just one heart shaped leaf planted in a mini pot.

Previously, I had been a little reluctant to add to the already abundant cactus and succulent patterns out there, but once I caught sight of this adorable plant I jumped at the chance to immortalize it in crochet form.

It’s not strictly attested that this plant would have a bright red flower, but since I can claim total ignorance of horticulture, I decided to take some creative liberties and add a touch of color.

My first colorwork pattern!

One of my favorite parts of this little succulent is the earthenware-like colorwork pot. These have been all the rage on social media lately, and I love the look of the contrasting neutrals. I previously have been very nervous about attempting any colorwork in my designs because the math just boggles my mind, but I thought this would be a low stakes way to dip my toes in the water.

Here’s a great video on how to use this technique!

I love how the detailing on the rim turned out, and I think it adds an elegant and sophisticated touch! Of course, you can customize this detail to however you want (or even to match a real life pot you might have).

Another technique I opted for was to use the crab stitch around the rim. The crab stitch is essentially a reverse single crochet stitch that creates a cute and polished edge that’s often used for baskets. I love how it looks here and think it’s a great alternative to a normal single crochet border!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Do you love plants and succulents but hate taking care of them? Crochet this mini heart succulent (hoya kerii) and enjoy having a miniature plant without needing to water it! This cute desk plant can keep you company with its cheery smile and bright flower.

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport
  • (<1 skein) Green
  • (<1 skein) Brown
  • (<1 skein) Beige
  • (<1 skein) Coral

Notions

• 3.25mm hook
• 4.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• Ch: chain
• BLO: back loop only
• MR: magic ring
• Slst: slip stitch
• Sc: single crochet
• Inc: single crochet increase
• Dec: single crochet decrease
• FO: finish off
• Sc x: single crochet x times

Special Stitches

Crab Stitch: Working counter-clock wise, insert your hook into the stitch directly to the right. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through both loops. Continue working into the stitches to the right. For more help, refer to the video tutorial here.

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

Final Size

2″ x 3″

TOP HALF (in green sport weight yarn, make two)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4-6 (3 rnds) sc all around (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off and weave in end. Make another identically, but do not finish off.

Connect to the second half and sc 16 all around, leaving 2 stitches unworked. Connect to the first half also leaving 2 stitches unworked and sc the remaining 16 stitches around. See video tutorial here. (32 sts total)

Using one of the tail ends of the top half, whip stitch the gap between the two halves closed. See video tutorial here.

BOTTOM HALF (in green sport weight yarn)

• Round 1 sc all around (32 sts)
• Round 2 (sc6, dec) x4 (28 sts)
• Round 3 (sc5, dec) x4 (24 sts)
• Round 4 (sc4, dec) x4 (20 sts)
• Begin stuffing. Insert 4.0 mm safety eyes between rounds 1 and 2 of the bottom half, or between rounds 6 and 7 counting from the very top, 3 stitches apart.
• Round 5 (sc3, dec) x4 (16 sts)
• Round 6 (sc2, dec) x4 (12 sts)
• Finish stuffing.
• Round 7 (sc, dec) x4 (8 sts)
• Cut the tail, cinch the last round closed, and finish off.

POT (in beige sport weight yarn, worked in joined rounds)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
• Round 2 ch, inc x6, slst (12 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (sc, inc) x6, slst (18 sts)
• Round 4 ch, (sc2, inc) x6, slst (24 sts)
• Round 5 ch, (sc3, inc) x6, slst (30 sts)
• Round 6 BLO ch, sc all around, slst (30 sts)
• Round 7-9 (3 rnds) ch, sc all around, slst (30 sts)
• Switch to brown sport weight yarn. (Here’s a blog post on how to change colors!)
• Round 10 ch, sc all around, slst (30 sts)
• Round 11 ch, (sc in brown, sc in beige) x15, slst (30 sts) Continue in brown sport weight yarn.
• Round 12 ch, sc all around (30 sts)
• Switch to beige sport weight yarn, working in the crab stitch.
• Round 13 ch, crab stitch all around. For clarification, see the Special Stitches section or this video. (30 sts)
• Invisible finish off, and weave in ends.

POT (in brown sport weight yarn)

Round 1 sc6 inMR (6 sts)

Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)

Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)

Round 4 (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)

Round 5 (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

FLOWER (in coral sport weight yarn)

• Round 1 sc5 in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2 (work a slst and dc2 all into the same stitch) x5 (10 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

1. Sew the soil circle to the second round from the top in the pot, stuffing as you go.
2. If you haven’t already, attach 4.0 mm safety eyes to the heart, between rounds 6 and 7 (counting from the top), 3 stitches apart
3. Using black embroidery floss, sew a V shaped mouth with two stitches. The mouth will be located directly between the eyes, and one round lower.
4. Sew the flower to the right lobe of the heart, with the middle between rounds 5 and 6 (counting from the top).
5. Sew the heart to the middle of the soil.
6. You’re all done! Enjoy your new desk cactus

I hope you enjoyed making this Heart Cactus! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Heart Cactus Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

To grab the exact yarn I used for this pattern, check out Good Loops Yarn’s website here, for the softest cotton you’ve ever felt that’s both environmentally sustainable and natural!

A musically inspired series!

As a classical trained cellist, music is one of my major inspirations and forms the backbone of my lens into the world. Although this may not seem to easily translate to amigurumi, there are many pieces that are wonderfully evocative and descriptive of stories, scenes, and even of animals. The Carnival of the Animals is one such suite, in which the French composer Saint-Saëns playfully recreates an entire menagerie of animals through a series of short pieces that have rolling arpeggios for a lion’s roar, fluttering flutes that evoke an aviary, and rippling piano reminiscent of a shimmering aquarium.

Through this series, I hope to recreate amigurumi for many of the movements in this suite, to tie together both my love of programmatic music and whimsical creatures, as well as dive into how each piece (in sometimes comical and hilarious ways) is able to describe each creature.

Let’s take a brief look at the first movement, the Introduction and Royal March of the Lion!

In the beginning, the lower strings form a jaunty march that strikes a strong and confident tone—perfect for heralding the king of the jungle! I love how pompous and comical these sections are, since I feel like it really sells the image of the regal lion. Then, the main feature of this first movement comes in: the distinctive lion’s roar, which can be heard in the lower register of the piano beginning at 0:32 seconds in the video. After this section, the strings and piano switch roles, with the strings creating the lion’s roar and the piano playing the march, to keep things interesting. The short movement ends with one last roar from the lion, who just has to have the last word.

Louis the Royal Lion

Inspired by this first movement of the Carnival of the Animals, I created Louis the Lion, a mini lion wearing a tiny crown who fits in the palm of your hand. This amigurumi is beginner level with a few new techniques that you can get under your belt, including the picot stitch, the technique to work the mane, and embroidering a French knot (optional).

The character of the entire movement is grandiose and a little self-important, so I created a lion with a huge ruffled mane that helps him stand out as king of the animals. I also added a tiny crown with a sparkling crown that ensures that he has the attention of everyone who looks at him!

The Softest Cotton Yarn

Everyone has their own preferences for yarn, and ever since I started crocheting, cotton yarn has been my least favorite to work with. As a result, all the skeins of cotton I have languish in the back of my yarn stash, barely used and some even with the labels still on them. But when I first tried Good Loops Yarn, I realized that I had finally found a cotton yarn that I could use and… dare I say… love?

Unlike most cotton yarn, which is mercerized, Good Loops Yarn (supplied by Nurturing Fibers) is soft to the touch and doesn’t hurt your hands to work with. The texture is slightly buttery and results in the incredible stitch definition that cotton is known for, and also doesn’t split. Since it’s soft and easy to work with without splitting, I highly recommend this yarn for beginners or those who have trouble working with small amigurumi pieces like in this pattern and don’t want to size up for yarn.

Cotton yarn is also significantly more eco-friendly than synthetic yarns like acrylic or rayon, since it doesn’t result in micro plastics being released into the air and is biodegradable. Being sustainable and environmentally friendly has come to my attention more as I continue to acquire yarn, and plant based, natural yarns like cotton are comparatively the most sustainable option. I’m truly glad to have found yarn that is both easy on the eyes and easy on the environment!

For Louis’ crown, I used Good Loops Yarn’s cotton and bamboo blend, a unique yarn that combines the sheen of bamboo with the strength of cotton. It’s perfect to make his crown stand out and shimmer against his golden head! I’ve never encountered this blend anywhere else and it’s a good compromise between the gorgeous shine of bamboo without it being too slippery or difficult to work with. I love how it turned out!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Louis the Lion is a mini lion that fits in the palm of your hand. This amigurumi is beginner level with a few new techniques that you can get under your belt, including the picot stitch, the technique to work the mane, and embroidering a French knot (optional).

Yarn

• Nurturing Fibres Eco-Cotton (DK weight)
  • (<1 ball) Sunglow
  • (<1 ball) Coco
  • (scrap) Ruby Pink
• Nurturing Fibres Eco-Lush (DK weight)
  • (scrap) Sunglow

Notions

• Size D (3.25 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• BLO: back loop only
• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dec: decrease
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• inc: increase (2 scs in same stitch) main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: sc x number of times
• (…) x: x total stitches in round/row repeat stitches within brackets x times

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.
• Picot stitch: Chain 3, slip stitch into the third chain from the hook. Slip stitch into the next 2 stitches.
• French knot: click here for tutorial.

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
• For this pattern, the MC is Sunglow (cotton), CC1 is Pecan, CC2 is Bessie (bamboo), and CC3 is Ruby Pink.

Final Size

3″ x 3.5″

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Insert 6.0mm safety eyes between rounds 4 and 5 across from each other, with round 1 in the center.
• Round 7-10 (4 rnds) sc around (36 sts)
• Round 11 BLO, sc around (36 sts)
• Round 12-14 (3 rnds) sc around (36 sts)
• Round 15 (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 16 (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 17 (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 18 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 19 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end.

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5-9 (5 rnds) sc around (24 sts) Round 10 (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts) Round 11 sc around (18 sts)
• Stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing, and sew between rounds 8 and 12 on the head. Round 11 of the head has a small ridge going all around from the BLO stitch, and this line should be covered by the body.

FRONT LEG (in CC1, then MC in round 5)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds) sc around (12 sts)
• Cut CC1 and switch to MC.
• Round 5 sc around (12 sts)
• Round 6 (2 sc, dec) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 7 sc around (9 sts)
• Round 8 (sc, dec) x3 (6 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Finish off and weave in end, leaving a tail for sewing. Flatten the opening and sew across in a running stitch to seam shut. Make another identically. Sew the two front legs to the front of the body.

BACK LEG (in CC1, then switch to MC in round 4)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 sc around (12 sts)
• Cut CC1 and switch to MC.
• Round 4-5 (2 rnds) sc around (12 sts) Round 6 (2 sc, dec) x3 (9 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Finish off and weave in end, leaving a tail for sewing. Flatten the opening and sew across in a running stitch to seam shut. Make another identically. Sew the back legs sideways to the left and right of the bottom of the body, with the seam vertically aligned with the body.

MANE (in CC1)

The mane is formed by many double crochet stitches worked into the BLO round (round 11) on the head. Work counterclockwise into the back loops visible around the head. Attach CC1 and work 3 double crochets into each loop all around the head. Follow step by step directions below for more guidance.

MUZZLE (in MC)

• Round 1 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds) sc around (12 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Using black embroidery thread and an embroidery needle, embroider a triangle nose (see video tutorial here) and a line going downwards. Stuff lightly and sew directly between the eyes between rounds 1 and 5.

CROWN (in CC2. Begin by creating a foundation row and then join in the round at round 2. See Abbreviations for FSC and Special Stitches for picot stitch and french knot.)

• Row 1 FSC 10, slip stitch to join in the round (10 sts)
• Round 2 ch, sc around, slip stitch to the first stitch (10 sts)
• Round 3 picot stitch x5 (5 points on the crown)
• Using CC3, tie a french knot under one of the points on the second round.

TAIL (begin in MC, then switch to CC1 at the end.)

Attach MC to the back of the body. Chain 10, then switch to CC1. Chain 3, then slip stitch into the 4th chain from the hook (the last chain in MC). Finish off and weave in end.

I hope you enjoyed making Louis the Lion! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest pumpkin ever!

Secret the Pumpkitten began with my desire to make some cute fall or Halloween themed decoration. Pumpkins are really popular this time of year, and what with the endless deluge of them I was seeing on social media, I really wanted to try to make my own.

Long story short, I tried a few patterns, and miserably failed at making my pumpkin. After a while, I decided that I would try on my own to design a pattern that was more approachable for me, and ended up with the pumpkin base that you see here! This pumpkin pattern is truly simple and is created from a sphere shape. As long as you can make a ball, then you can make this pumpkin! After that, the way to create those signature pumpkin grooves is just some easy stitching that pulls the sides of the sphere tight.

Secret the pumpkin cat

I loved the pumpkin that I came up with, but I wanted to add something extra. My sister has the most adorable gray Siberian cat named Secret, and she insisted that I include her in the pattern somehow. Secret is gray with the cutest white tufts of fur, and here are a few pictures from her last outing! She will reluctantly take walks on a leash (read: sit down while you insistently tug on the leash and then inevitably give up).

For my amigurumi, I decided on a cute pose of Secret’s head poking out the top of the pumpkin, complete with tiny paws and the pumpkin top sitting on her head.

The final result is super cute and very on theme for Halloween given the prevalence of cats and pumpkins around this holiday! If you’re also a cat lover, you could definitely change the color of the fur to match your own feline, or any imaginary cat color you wish. I can also imagine this amigurumi sticking around past Halloween, since fall and pumpkins mesh together quite well!

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Secret the Pumpkitten is a cute pumpkin with a kitten poking her head out of the pumpkin top. Use this adorable plushie as Halloween home decor, DIY fall decorations, or for gifting. Customize the cat to any color fur you want, or to match your own kitty at home!

Yarn

• Red Heart Super Saver
  • <1 skein of Burnt Orange (worsted weight)
• Hobbii Tivoli
  • <1 skein of Gray (sport weight)
  • <1 skein of Green (sport weight)
• Lion Brand DIYarn
  • <1 skein of Brown (worsted weight)

Notions

• Size C (2.5 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• Size E (3.5 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 4.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread
• pink embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• MR: Magic ring
• Sc: Single crochet
• Ch: Chain
• Sl st: Slip stitch
• Yo: Yarn over
• Hdc: Half double crochet
• Dc: Double crochet
• Inc: Increase
• Dec: Decrease
• Sts: Stitches
• FO: Fasten off
• (…) x: repeat stitches within parentheses x times
• Sk: skip one stitch
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)

Technical Notes:

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

Pumpkin (orange worsted weight yarn and 3.5mm hook)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7 (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8 (sc6, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9 (sc7, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 10 (sc8, inc) x6 (60 sts)
• Round 11-19 (9 rnds) sc all around (60 sts)
• Round 20 (sc8, dec) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 21 (sc7, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 22 (sc6, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 23 (sc5, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 24 (sc4, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 25 (sc3, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 26 (sc2, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 27 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail of around 2 feet. There will be a gap in the middle. Make a well in the center of the pumpkin by pushing your finger all the way to the bottom.
• (Watch a video tutorial for this step here!) Using a tapestry needle, push the needle through the center of the pumpkin and out the bottom. Then, draw the needle up and over the outside of the pumpkin and push it through the middle again tightly, create a groove in the side of the pumpkin. Repeat 5 more times evenly around the pumpkin for a total of six grooves, or six stitches around the side. FO.

Cat Head (in gray sport weight yarn, using a 2.5mm hook. Note that thicker yarn will result in a larger cat head)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4 (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5 (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6 (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7 (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8 (sc6, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 9-19 (11 rnds) sc all around (48 sts)
• Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between the 15th and 16th rounds, 6 stitches apart.
• Round 20 (sc6, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 21 (sc5, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 22 (sc4, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 23 (sc3, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Begin stuffing.
• Round 24 (sc2, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 25 (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Finish stuffing.
• Round 26 dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

Ears (in gray sport weight yarn, using a 2.5mm hook)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3 (sc3, inc) x2 (10 sts)
• Round 4 (sc4, inc) x2 (12 sts)
• Round 5 (sc5, inc) x2 (14 sts)
• Do not stuff. Sew across the opening to seam closed, and leave a short tail for sewing.

Cat Paws (in gray sport weight yarn, using a 2.5mm hook)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc2, inc) x4 (16 sts)
• Round 4-5 (2 rnds) sc all around (16 sts)
• Round 6 (sc2, dec) x4 (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly, and invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

Pumpkin Top (in orange worsted weight yarn, using a 3.5mm hook)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3 (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

Pumpkin Stem (in brown worsted weight yarn, using a 3.5mm hook)

• Round 1 sc 6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2-3 (2 rnds) sc all around (6 sts)
• Stuff lightly. Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

Pumpkin Leaf (in green sport weight yarn, using a 2.5mm hook)

Chain 6, then beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc, hdc, dc2, then dc6 in the last chain. On the way back, dc2, hdc, and sc. Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

Assembly

1. Embroider a triangular nose on the muzzle using pink embroidery thread between rounds 16-17 (counting from the top). Begin from the bottom round and outline out a small pie slice shape extending one rounds using vertical stitches. Fill in the outline and make one single horizontal stitch across the top for a cleaner look.
2. Place eyes just above the nose between the 15th and 16th rounds (counting from the top), with 6 stitches between them.
3. Embroider two whiskers on each side of the head using black embroidery thread. The top whiskers begin on round 17 (counting from the top) and are 3 stitches long, ending on round 15, while the bottom whiskers begin on round 18 and are 3 stitches long, ending on round 19.
4. Sew the ears between the 5th and 9th rounds (counting from the top), off to the left and right.
5.Sew the cat head onto the middle of the pumpkin.
6.Sew the cat paws directly in front of the cat head, with each one resting in a pumpkin groove.
7.Sew the stem onto the middle of the pumpkin top, and then sew the leaf to
the left of the stem. Sew the pumpkin top onto the cat’s head.

I hope you enjoyed making Secret the Pumpkitten! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

More like this:

• 20 Cutest FREE Crochet Baby Toy Patterns (for beginners!)
• 14 Quick and Easy Crochet Keychains for Bags (Stashbuster!)
• 12 Cutest Free Crochet Gnome Patterns (beginner friendly!)
• 9 Cutest Totoro Crochet Patterns (from Studio Ghibli!)
• 9 Fun Crochet Jellyfish Patterns!

The post Secret the Pumpkitten – Crochet Pumpkin Cat – Free Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Keep reading to learn about my design process and inspiration, as well as the perfect yarn I chose, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you want to take this pattern offline, get the beautifully formatted, ad-free, printable PDF pattern here!

Teddy Bears Galore!

I absolutely adore teddy bears. I love them so much that I can’t seem to stop making them, though no two are exactly the same in terms of body shape! (If you want to take a peek, see: Mini Polar Bear, Fluffy Bear, and Mini Bear patterns)

Waffle was created with the same body plan as Bingsoo the Chubby Penguin, whom you might have seen on my blog last week. After I created Bingsoo, I decided that I loved his chubby body shape so much that I wanted to make a friend for him, and I settled on a bear for the type of animal. However, I really want to continue this Chubbies series, so if you have any suggestions for other animals that I could make into this shape, leave me a comment below!

I’ve also created a detailed beginner tutorial for Waffle the Bear that you can watch below! I’ll walk you through all the steps from beginning to end, including sewing! This is a great resource if you’re still getting started and want to follow along with video instructions

The Fluffiest Yarn Ever

I used WeCrochet’s Wonderfluff in Beige Blond because of the sheer fluffiness of its 70% Baby Alpaca fiber content. I splurged on this yarn a while back because of how much I loved the texture and feel against my skin, and have been waiting for the perfect opportunity to use it. I think it’s safe to say that Waffle and Wonderfluff were a match made in heaven!

For Waffle’s muzzle, I chose Lion Brand Yarn’s Baby Soft in Crisp White. I needed the muzzle to be created using tight, fine stitches, and this sport weight yarn was perfect. However, even though the yarn is thin, LBY’s Baby Soft yarn lives up to its name and is still gentle to touch.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The Pattern

• To take this pattern offline, get the beautifully formatted, printable, PDF copy on Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

Waffle the Chubby Bear is a rotund little amigurumi bear who stands on a round bottom. He’s the perfect Sunday afternoon project that is a great stash buster and works as adorable home decor, gifts, or toy for a child. Make a whole family of little bears in different colors!

Yarn

• WeCrochet Wonderfluff
  • <1 skein of Beehive Heather (bulky, but reads more as a worsted)
• Lion Brand Yarn Baby Soft
  • <1 skein of White (sport weight)
• Scrap black yarn
  • <1 skein (sport weight)

Notions

I’ve compiled an entire guide of all my most used tools at this link. There are so many options out there, and as a beginner it can be completely overwhelming to try and figure out where to start, but I’ve demystified it all for you with my favorite crochet supplies!

• Size C (2.75 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• Sc: Single crochet
• Ch: Chain
• Sl st: Slip stitch
• Yo: Yarn over
• Hdc: Half double crochet
• Dc: Double crochet
• Inc: Increase
• Dec: Decrease
• Sts: Stitches
• FO: Fasten off
• (…) x: repeat stitches within parentheses … times
• Sk: skip one stitch
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)

Technical Notes:

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Watch my video tutorial here for more help!

Head/body (in beige yarn)

• Begin Chain 7.
• Round 1 Beginning in the second chain from hook, sc 12 all around the foundation chain. There will be 2 stitches in each chain stitch. For more information on crocheting around a foundation, see here (12 sts)
• Round 2 inc x12 (24 sts)
• Round 3 (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 4 (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 5 (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 6 (sc6, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 7 -10 (4 rounds) sc all around (48 sts)
• Round 11 (sc7, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Insert 6.0mm safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10 with 7 stitches in between.
• Round 12-19 (8 rounds) sc all around (54 sts)
• Round 20 (sc8, inc) x6 (60 sts)
• Round 21-25 (5 rounds) sc all around (60 sts)
• Round 26 (sc8, dec) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 27 (sc7, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 28 (sc4, dec) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 29 (sc3, dec) x8 (32 sts)
• Begin stuffing.
• Round 30 (sc2, dec) x8 (24 sts)
• Round 31 (sc, dec) x8 (16 sts)
• Round 32 (dec) x8 (8 sts)
• Finish stuffing.
• Round 33 (dec) x4 (4 sts)
• Cut yarn, leaving a short tail. Using a needle, thread the yarn through all 6 stitches in the last round, and pull it tight so the opening closes like a drawstring bag. Finish off.

Arms (in beige yarn)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2-4 (3 rounds) sc all around (6 sts)
• Fold the tube flat, and sew across the top to seal closed. Finish off and leave a short tail for sewing.

Muzzle (in white yarn, in joined rounds. Note that I used sport weight yarn, a size down from the body. If you use the same weight yarn for the muzzle and body then your muzzle will look larger.)

• Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
• Round 2 ch, inc x6, slst (12 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (sc, inc) x6, slst (18 sts)
• Round 4-6 (3 rounds) ch, sc all around, slst (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Stuff very lightly or leave unstuffed.

If you want to use worsted weight yarn for the muzzle as the body (instead of sport weight as written in the materials section), then follow these alternative instructions below:

• Round 1 sc6 in MR, slst (6 sts)
• Round 2 ch, (sc, inc) x3, slst (9 sts)
• Round 3 ch, (sc2, inc) x3, slst (12 sts)
• Round 4 ch, sc around, slst (12 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing. Stuff very lightly or leave unstuffed.

Ears (in beige yarn)

• Round 1 sc6 In MR (6 sts)
• Round 2 inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rounds) sc all around (12 sts)
• Fold flat and sew across the opening to seal. Finish off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

Assembly

1. Embroider a triangular nose on the muzzle. Begin from the middle of the nose and outline out a small pie slice shape extending 2 rounds using vertical stitches. Fill in the outline and make one single horizontal stitch across the top for a cleaner look.
2. Sew muzzle to head between 9th and 15th rounds from the top, in the middle of the longer face of the oval body.
3. Place eyes just above the muzzle between the 9th and 10th rounds, with 7 stitches between them.
4. Sew the ears between the 3rd and 8th rounds from the top, off to the left and right.
5. Sew the arms on the body between the 14th and 16th rounds from the top, right under the bottom of the muzzle.

Waffle the Bear is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy. Once again, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me with a direct message on Instagram or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com. Happy crocheting!

More like this:

• 20 Cutest FREE Crochet Baby Toy Patterns (for beginners!)
• 14 Quick and Easy Crochet Keychains for Bags (Stashbuster!)
• 12 Cutest Free Crochet Gnome Patterns (beginner friendly!)
• 9 Cutest Totoro Crochet Patterns (from Studio Ghibli!)
• 9 Fun Crochet Jellyfish Patterns!

The post Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.