Plus, this stitch is super simple! If you know how to single and double crochet, you already know everything needed to learn this stitch.

The alpine stitch is great for any project. I’ve seen it used for blankets, hats, sweaters, scarves, and more! Use this stitch to add texture and warmth.

The texture in this stitch comes from its front post stitches. These are made just like regular crochet stitches; however, they are made around previous stitches instead of being worked into the top “v.” This tutorial walks you through everything!

Materials

• Yarn
• Crochet Hook
• Scissors (for cutting yarn at the end)
• Tapestry Needle (for weaving in ends)

In the photos below, I am using worsted weight yarn from my stash. It is 100% acrylic yarn. The hook I am using is a 4.5 mm hook. If your stitches tend to be tight, I would recommend sizing up your hook (about 1-2 hook sizes or 0.5-1.0 mm). Feel free to experiment with different sized hooks and yarns, as well as different yarn types!

Before we begin, this stitch is also perfect for blending different colors together! I personally think that a series of rainbow yarns, pastel colors, or any gradient lends itself beautifully to this stitch. Pictured below is a rainbow swatch of the alpine stitch from Naztazia.com. Without further ado, the alpine stitch!

How to Crochet the Alpine Stitch

Abbreviations

• DC = double crochet
• SC = single crochet
• E-FPDC = extended front post double crochet

Check out this YouTube video by Crochet Me Lovely for a tutorial on the extended front post double crochet stitch. The video is beginner friendly and walks you through each step of the stitch. Once you’ve learned the E-FPDC, continue on to the alpine stitch tutorial below!

• Chain an even number of stitches.
• Row 1: DC in the fourth chain from your hook and in each stitch across. The stitches you skipped count as your first DC. Your total number of stitches will be 2 stitches less than your starting chain. Chain 1 and turn your work.

• Row 2: SC in each stitch across. You should have the same number of stitches as in row 1. Chain 2 and turn.

• Note: You will always chain twice to begin a DC or E-FPDC row. They count as your first stitch in the row.
• Row 3: (The chain 2 counts as a DC). In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC stitch below in Row 1. When you draw up the loop, make sure that it is just above your current row. This will keep your piece from curling. *In the next stitch, DC as normal on top of the SC in row 2. In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC from row 1* repeat from * to * across. Chain 1 and turn your work.

• Row 4: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn.

• Row 5: (The chain 2 counts as an E-FPDC). In the next stitch, DC as normal on top of the SC in row 4. *In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC in row 3. In the next stitch, DC on top of the SC row.* Repeat from * to * across. Chain 1 at the end of the row and turn.

• Row 6: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn.

• Row 7: *DC, then E-FPDC* across. Chain 1 and turn.

• Row 8: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn your work.

• Row 9: *E-FPDC, DC* across. Chain 1 and turn.

Continue following this pattern, alternating between SC and DC/E-FPDC rows, until your piece reaches your desired height.

That’s all there is to it! In the photos above, I chained 20 and had 18 stitches in each row. It can be really helpful to count at the end of every row for the alpine stitch. This way you don’t drop any stitches and your piece has nice straight edges.

Tips and Tricks!

• E-FPDC will always be worked into the double crochet from the row below. In the same vein, DC will always be worked into the SC row below.
• If the edges of your piece are not as straight as you’d like, add a border with a simple slip stitch or SC to straighten out the piece.
• There are many ways to crochet the alpine stitch. I find that this method is the simplest. However, you may want to explore other methods. Check out this article titled “How to Crochet Alpine Stitch in Two Ways” from Craft-Her for 2 more methods!

What to do if your piece is curling

To get a really nice flat piece with straight edges, it is key to make sure you bring up the yarn on the extended front post double crochet stitches. When those front post double crochet stitches are too tight, the alpine stitch has a tendency to curl. To avoid this curling, bring up a generous amount of yarn when you yarn over. Loosening your tension will help as well.

Of course, you can always try out a larger crochet hook if your piece is still curling. Using a larger hook will loosen up your stitches for you, so that you don’t have to worry about your tension!

If a larger hook does not help the curling either, you can try switching the front post double crochet stitches with front post treble crochet stitches. This stitch is longer and should help keep your piece flat. This minute-long video, Front Post Treble Crochet Technique, by Leisure Arts Inc on YouTube guides you through the stitch.

If all else fails, blocking your work will flatten out the piece. I’ve written about blocking acrylic yarn with steam. Check out this link to How to Block Acrylic the Easy Way (in 3 Simple Steps!) for more information and detailed instructions. Crocheting an edge or border along your piece is also a common fix for curling!

That’s all for today. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and go on to try out the alpine stitch for yourself—happy crocheting!

The post Easy Step-by-Step Guide for the Alpine Stitch (with Photos) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Some of my favorite projects to make with the thermal stitch are potholders, bags, and baskets. The thermal stitch is perfect for anything that needs to stand up to wear and tear. For instance, washcloths would make a great thermal stitch project.

This stitch is made entirely of single crochet! Instead of working into both loops of each stitch on your current row, you’ll insert your crochet hook through the back loop of your current row as well as the open loop from the row below it. While it sounds confusing, the thermal stitch is really quite simple once you’ve seen it done. Keep reading to learn the thermal stitch!

The Thermal Stitch

*Note: In this tutorial I used a worsted weight yarn and size 5mm (US H) hook. Feel free to play around with your hook size and yarn to achieve your desired results! I also use US crochet terms throughout.

1. Make a slip knot and chain any number of chains by yarning over and pulling through the loop on your hook. There is no multiple required for this stitch, so chain your desired length.

2. Starting in the second chain from the hook, single crochet using the back loop of the chain only. Continue to single crochet in the back loop only until you reach the end of the row. Chain one and turn your work.

3. Insert your hook through both the back loop of the current row and the open loop from your chain (the loop you did not work into). Yarn over and pull through two loops on your hook. Then yarn over again and pull through the remaining loops to complete your first single crochet thermal stitch. Continue this until the end of the row. Chain one and turn.

4. Again using only the back loop of the current row and the unworked loop from the row below, single crochet across. That’s it! Continue to crochet rows of thermal stitches until the piece is as tall as you’d like it to be. When you are ready to finish your piece, move on to step five.

5. Chain one and turn. For your last row, you will be inserting your hook through both loops of the current row as well as the open loop from the previous row (three loops total). Then, you may single crochet or slip stitch across to finish.

That’s it! You’ve learned the thermal stitch—simple, right?

As with any crochet stitch, you can use the thermal stitch to make just about anything. Because the thermal stitch creates a thick fabric, I would recommend against using it for wearable items. Again, potholders are a popular project for this stitch, as are baskets.

Since this stitch is worked into both the current row and the row below, it takes a while to build up height. Plus, each row is very short. This is something to note for larger projects, like blankets, that already take a long time to complete.

How to Count Rows with the Thermal Stitch

Unlike a normal single crochet stitch, the thermal stitch is worked in two different rows. This can make it difficult to count your rows. My advice would be to leave your starting tail loose (the tail of your slip knot) and use that as a guide.

For instance, if the tail is on the left of your piece, you are currently working into an odd numbered row. The converse is true. If the tail is on your right, you  are working into an even numbered row.

To count your rows of thermal stitch, I find it easiest to position your piece so that the starting tail is on the left. The first row you see is actually row two. Now, you can count each upside down “v” (each stitch) as two rows. Pictured below I have 13 rows.

At the top, I counted just one row because there is no visible “v.” This indicates that there is just one row present.

Variations on the Thermal Stitch

You can also work the thermal stitch with different crochet stitches to get a different pattern and weight. Some popular variations use the half-double crochet stitch and the double crochet stitch.

For these variations you follow the same procedure as explained above, except you work a different kind of stitch into the current back loop of your row and the open loop below. Pictured below are the half-double crochet thermal stitch and the double crochet thermal stitch.

The half-double crochet thermal stitch is slightly thicker than the single crochet thermal stitch, as is the double crochet thermal stitch.

Some Simple Projects for Practice

1. Extra Thick Crochet Potholder

Potholders need to be thick to protect your hand from the head of a baking tray or pot. The thermal stitch is arguably the best stitch to make a crochet potholder. This pattern uses a double-crochet thermal stitch, but can easily be modified for the single crochet version.

Click here for the free pattern.

2. Thermal Stitch Bath Mat

This bath mat pattern employs the thermal stitch to make a wonderfully thick and squishy mat, ideal for stepping on after the show. Chenille-style blanket yarn is recommended for this project to make the mat absorbent and machine washable.

Click here for the free pattern.

3. Crossbody Strap

The thermal stitch creates a nice and sturdy strap for crochet bags! This pattern walks you through the process of adding a strap to your favorite crochet bags and even explains how to crochet onto a D ring or split key ring for added durability. The thermal stitch, like any crochet stitch, will stretch a little bit, but it is a tried and true method for making robust bag straps.

Click here for the free pattern

The post How to Crochet the Thermal Stitch (single crochet) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.